Quoted: Not sure about your first two issues, but for the bolt being stuck, try slamming the buttstock on the ground while pulling downward on the charging handle at the same time.  That will usually open things up.

Yep, and if the rifle is a carbine stocked unit, pull the butt stock off the back of the receiver extension before making the the tube blow/CH pull to the ground.

As for the first few problems, confirm that you have the correct extractor installed, the bolt ejector is not bound up in the channel, and that you have a extra strength spring (or at least a #60 O-ring or D-fender installed around the standard spring to add a little more tension to the extractor to prevent it from dropping the case before the bolt reaches full reward travel.  Also to add, was this factory ammo that bound up the rifle, or reloads? If the later, then you need to check head space.  If the first, then you need to back the load off (read both could be causing over functioning/short stroking, and the reason that the spent case is not being cleanly ejected at the back of B/C rearward stall).

Also to point out, Pull all the way back on the charging handle (once you get the bolt unlocked) and confirm that the face of the bolt does not retract behind the back of the ejection port.  If it does, then the spent case is going to hit the back port lip and just be bounced back into the action.

Quoted: JohnQ...nope, it is a 6.8spc Here is a couple pictures of the lug pinch on the case. Hope someone can explain why this happened. farm3.static.flickr.com/2410/2060861974_2ce68bbe4a.jpg?v=0 farm3.static.flickr.com/2210/2060080783_2e53cf0dbd.jpg?v=0

The photo's just showed up for me,

You have either over function, being that the bolt is unlocking too soon and the residual pressure still in the chamber is too high for a clean extraction.  Have you tried to use a heaver buffer to slow down the unlock?

Or,  the chamber itself is too tight (cross wall, last cut, headspace) or just reaming marked/plated rough.  
Note: These will pretty much cause the same effect as the above.

As for the spent primers, they show no sign of over pressure, but remember that with the round, slower powders are used, so again were are back to residual pressure at unlock over that of total working pressure (going over the top) that would show signs at the spent primer.

Edited since these are reloads,

Working pressure looks fine, but with the problem your having, could be that the cases where not OAL trimmed correctly, correctly sized, or even the shoulder buckled with the bullet was crimped.

Really, try a box of factory ammo and see if the rifle still has the same problems.  If it does not, they you know that you have a flaw in your reloading practices.

Both 223 and 6.8 use the same recoils spring/buffer (it's butt stock dependent on if a standard or carbine units are to be used).
Also note, over function will cause short stroking, but lets cross that bridge if everything else check out.

Pull the gas block and check the burn. Also confirm that the gas tube entry point to the gas block is aligned.  If needed on the  gas block passage alignment, use a drill bit up the set screw hole to enlarge the gas tube entry hole to that of the block passage.

Next 45* drop test the B/C in the upper to confirm that the carrier (sides of the key) are not binding in the upper receiver.

With the upper still shotgunned open, take a look at the back of the trigger behind the disco hook.   Check for any dents or white lines just behind the disco hook on the tail of the disco or trigger to weed out hammer wedging.

Lastly, take a good look at the entry to the receiver extension, and even charge the weapon a few time to confirm that the buffer or B/C is not binding on the tube as they load back into it (read canted tube against the bore line).