Quoted:  I am having issues with FTF when I am attempting to charge it doesn’t matter if I just inserted a new Magazine or if I try to manually cycle some rounds through it with the charging handle.

When charging the rifle, you are pulling all the way back on the charging handle, then letting it go (read not walking the charging handle back forward)?  If yes, then lock the bolt back on the bolt catch, insert a mag, and while keeping the muzzle pointed down range, hit the bolt release and see if this solves the feed problem.

The bullet tips are making the correct contact on the feed ramps, so it boils down to one of these problems.

1. The mag is still rough (inner side walls, under feed lip contact area, and front ramp area).

2. The Recoil spring is on the weak side, and does not have the needed tension to strip and feed the first round on charge.

3. The hammer is catching on the firing pin collar on the forward stroke, and in fact this is what is stopping the bolt. To rule out this one, with the mag out of the rifle, pull back on the charging handle, and then walk the charging handle back forward. The B/C should not  hang up on the way forward.  If it does, slowly charge again to do the same test, but this time hold the trigger back (pulled).
Note: Holding the trigger pulled keeps the hammer retained on the disconnector (held lower in the receiver) and the hammer shouldn't bind on the firing pin collar.


P.S. In regards to the ten rounder feed angle, it's not correct.

Since this is mag problem (if the 10 rounder feeds fine), there is always the option of replacing the mag with a working unit, but not knowing how available mags are in your part of the world, it may be easier to just correct the one on hand.


If you take a look at this photo you posted, you will see the receiver mar’g just below the feed ramp in the upper receiver it’s self. This mar’g is being caused by the bullet low feeds out of the mag (bullet tip striking the upper receive and not the feed ramps).



Breaking in, cleaning up the mag.

First were going to start with setting the spring, and mate the follower to the body.  
To do this, you take a ruler and push the mag follower all the way down, then let the mag snap back up on it own. Do this about 20 times.

Since you have stated that you have already pulled the mag apart to clean it, stripping it down one more time should be a snap.
With just the mag body in your hand, run your fingernail down the under side of the feed lips to feel for burs.
Check the very front of the mag where the tip of the bullet tracks up the inner side front of the body.
Check the upper guide section of the mag for burs (it’s the section just behind the shoulder of the round of the photo that I posted, and the one with the bottom edge bur sticking out and waving at me).
The short version is if any areas that I listed above have stamping burs, they should be removed (stoned) so that the contact edges of the mag to the round should guide the round, and not scrap the hell out of it.

Once you have the body corrected, look at the mag follower.  If you find the bottom of the skirt is littered with casting edges, us a razor knife and address the edges.
Follow this up by cleaning all the parts and reassembling the magazine.

Now before re-installing the mag into the rifle, check the mag release button to confirm that the thread section of the mag release (inner part) is flush with the button it’s self.  If needed, you press all the way in on the button (use the back end of a pencil), and reach over to the other side to give the catch another spin if needed.  If you find that the catch only needs to be spun ½” turn to flush the threaded section, them you will need to spin the catch all the way out, remove the button and re-orient/spin it 180*, then screw the catch back in to flush the tip of the threads out with the button.

Now back to your other questions.

I need you to take one more photo of the fire control group, but straight down with the hammer un-cocked.  The area I’d like to see the disconnector behind the hook to check for hammer binding on charging (will be a dent or bright line from the tail of the hammer making contact to the back of the trigger/disco).


In regards to your hammer catching on the firing pin collar, you have a shrouded carrier (Firing pin is shielded), and you will not have the collar catch problem.  
Regarding the hammer mod you saw, your hammer does not need it (due to the shrouded carrier), but the tail of the hammer may be a bit too long, and causing some binding that will slow the forward stroke of the carrier on charge (again the reason for the picture to confirm).


Now regarding the feed angle of mags, when the top round is pushed forward in the mag (bolt against the back of the rim), the round should move straight forward (pinned between the feed lips and the lower round/follower).  The tip of the bullet makes contact on the feed lips, and then the barrel feed lips guides the bullet/round into the chamber (rim section slightly dips down below the feed lips until the rounds rim clears them).  Once the front section of the round is well into the chamber, then the rim of the round clears the mag lips and the bolt drives home (controlled feeding).

In regards to the 10 rounder mag photo you posted, the round is jumping out of the feed lips before the rim clears the lips and is not being retained in the mag during the strip for a controlled feed. This may be due to you only charging by hand, but down the road, with the feed lips not fully retaining the round until it clears, it will lead to a double live feed (rounds being sprayed out on buffer/ back of receiver impact during self-charging).

Sorry, got the ten rounder from "teh Rounds" you wrote in below one of the photo's.
There is no difference if the mags are 10 rounder, 20 rounder or 30 rounder. All should feed and retain the rounds the same way.

Is it normal to need to break in the mags/followers and need to clean the feed lips on new USGI issued mags? No, normally a couple of full loadings/uses will solve any problem instead of cleaning them up by hand. But having said that, I have seen New USGI "Type" mags that would have never passed the final acceptance lot test by the government inspectors in regards to stamping burs and finish.