Tweak here is one.
I have a Colt 16" Comp. Target HBarII. It is just like from the factory, nothing added.
It (Spent Casings) has started hitting the forward end of the opening where it ejects.
I noticed it when I picked up the casings. They all have a mashed in area just where the bullet was crimped, not bad just a little flat area. As I said, I see where the finish is knocked off down to the bright medal.
I have cleaned the gas tube,bolt and carrier.
I am shooting XM193 LC 02 Fed.
I am getting NO jams, it feeds fine.
Thanks

I am having the SAME exact problem with my AR10T.  I would be interested to hear a fix for this as well...

What location on the front of the ejection port is being contacted by the spent case, the inside, and the outside or just at the lip between the inside/outside of the front of port? The location of contact will determine the plan of attack to correct the problem.  

If it at the outside, then the bolt is releasing the spent case too far behind the ejection port on buffer stall, and the rear of the spent case is deflecting off the rear of the ejection port, and spinning the round forward to make contact.  

If the contact is at the inside, then the extractor is not retaining the spent case, and the ejector is pushing the front of the spent case over, and scrapping the port on the way back. This is also a sign of ammo high working pressure, with the BC losing too much momentum at ejection by having to pry the blown out case off the chamber walls.

If the contact is at the lip, the extractor or ejector is faulty, and the spent case is returning forward with the BC (not pivoted off at buffer stall) and being shoved into the front lip of the port.

The second two are easy fixes, the first is a little harder, due to having to limit the rearward stroke of the BC/buffer, and requires that the receiver extension contact point and threaded end be slightly shortened to limit the amount of travel that the BC can run backwards.  Also, the easy way to see if free run is the problem is to just lock the bolt back, and see how much room the bolt will move back away from the bolt lock.  The range should be around .020-.045 free run past the bolt lock (bolt should stop before reaching the back of the ejection port), more than this and the case is just spun against the back of the ejection port on release from the bolt on stall.


As for the AR-10, I haven’t pulled one down in a while, and can’t remember if the Armalite buffer has tungsten weights (My last SR-25 was solid plastic).  Without the dead blow weights, the buffer/BC does not stall on end of stroke, and the ejection path of the spent case is forward, not spun out rearward at stall.  My solution to the problem was polish the ejector pin/channel to make sure there was constant/smooth pressure getting the case off the bolt face, and to clean the burs off the ejector claw to make sure that the case had a clean release on the forward stroke.

Thanks really a lot on your reply.
I wish I had your email address, I took pics of the rifle and would like you to see them.
On the bolt in lock back, the BC is past the back of the ejection port. The bolt is still in the port slot. From lock back, I am able to move the BC back with the charging handle about a 1/4"-3/8"back more, before it stops.

Thanks

ttusus,

Email them to ARtweaker at Yahoo and I'll host them and post them here.

ttusus,  

With the bolt pulled all the way back (charging handle), is the face of the bolt behind the back of the ejection port, level with the back of port, or stopped just short of the back of the ejection port.

As for my e-mail address, it has been fixed, and you can just pull it down from my profile.

Pic 1[img]http://photos.ar15.com/WS_Content/ImageGallery/Attachments/DownloadAttach.asp?sAccountUnq=12467&iGalleryUnq=934&iImageUnq=19499[/img]
Pic 2[img]http://photos.ar15.com/WS_Content/ImageGallery/Attachments/DownloadAttach.asp?sAccountUnq=12467&iGalleryUnq=934&iImageUnq=19500[/img]
Pic 3[img]http://photos.ar15.com/WS_Content/ImageGallery/Attachments/DownloadAttach.asp?sAccountUnq=12467&iGalleryUnq=934&iImageUnq=19501[/img]
Pic 4[img]http://photos.ar15.com/WS_Content/ImageGallery/Attachments/DownloadAttach.asp?sAccountUnq=12467&iGalleryUnq=934&iImageUnq=19502[/img]
Pic 7[img]http://photos.ar15.com/WS_Content/ImageGallery/Attachments/DownloadAttach.asp?sAccountUnq=12467&iGalleryUnq=934&iImageUnq=19503[/img]

Looks to me like some of the spent cases have even been hitting the delta ring.

Sorry if this was gone over already, I did not see that in your post but saw it in the pictures.

No problem Just real strange that it is happening

From an IM conversation had with ttusus while uploading the pics.

artweaker (9:35:45 AM): FWIW, that doesn't look like a Colt BC in that rifle. Your BC is awfully rough.
nottusus2001 (9:36:03 AM): really
artweaker (9:36:04 AM): If it's locked back then the body of the carrier is catching on the bolt catch
nottusus2001 (9:36:10 AM): boy boy
artweaker (9:36:16 AM): is there a "C" stamped on your carrier?'
nottusus2001 (9:36:22 AM): yes
artweaker (9:36:29 AM): so much for that idea then
nottusus2001 (9:36:36 AM): mpc on the bolt
artweaker (9:36:43 AM): that's correct then
nottusus2001 (9:37:25 AM): can i put a new m-16 bolt and carrier in there
artweaker (9:37:50 AM): when the bolt is locked on the catch it is visible
artweaker (9:38:03 AM): you should be able to pull it back further and then it's not visible
artweaker (9:38:05 AM): my bad
artweaker (9:38:09 AM): still waking up
nottusus2001 (9:38:36 AM): yes i can
nottusus2001 (9:38:43 AM): it goes back
artweaker (9:39:06 AM): there's chips in the finish on the rear of your handguard retaining ring, the "delta ring".
artweaker (9:39:17 AM): is that from rounds hitting the rear of the ring?
artweaker (9:39:33 AM): you can put an M16 carrier in the rifle but no need too.
nottusus2001 (9:39:51 AM): I don't really know, just saw it yesterday
artweaker (9:40:19 AM): that's usually a sign of overfunction
artweaker (9:40:22 AM): too much gas
nottusus2001 (9:40:23 AM): you can see where it is hitting the ejector port right
artweaker (9:40:26 AM): yep
nottusus2001 (9:40:43 AM): how do you cut that back
artweaker (9:41:12 AM): depends on what is causing it
nottusus2001 (9:41:18 AM): ok
artweaker (9:41:28 AM): assuming it just started happening I'd look at the buffer
nottusus2001 (9:41:36 AM): i am shooting XM193 LC 02
nottusus2001 (9:42:05 AM): Buffer too short you mean?
artweaker (9:42:28 AM): spring weak, buffer light
nottusus2001 (9:42:31 AM): spring is 12 3/4" long I just measured it
nottusus2001 (9:43:10 AM): Where can you buy Colt parts
artweaker (9:45:51 AM): www.sawleasales.com
nottusus2001 (9:46:05 AM): k thanks
artweaker (9:47:22 AM): that's a fixed stock A2 right?
nottusus2001 (9:47:34 AM): correct
artweaker (9:47:39 AM): spring's good then
artweaker (9:48:00 AM): did it just start doing this?
artweaker (9:48:05 AM): how long have you had it
artweaker (9:48:14 AM): how many rounds through it?
nottusus2001 (9:48:23 AM): Match Target Comp. HBARII
nottusus2001 (9:47:59 AM): 3 years
nottusus2001 (9:48:12 AM): Got it used
nottusus2001 (9:48:30 AM): Very few from me, about 300
artweaker (9:50:23 AM): ok,
artweaker (9:50:32 AM): so it may have been doing this all along?
nottusus2001 (9:51:12 AM): didn't notice the case being hit
nottusus2001 (9:51:47 AM): just a little flat spot on the case when I see them
artweaker (9:51:53 AM): been shooting this batch of ammo for long?
artweaker (9:52:11 AM): could also be hot loads
nottusus2001 (9:52:16 AM): Then I saw the hits on the ejector port
nottusus2001 (9:52:35 AM): I tried PMC, SA
nottusus2001 (9:52:46 AM): same flat spot
artweaker (9:52:50 AM): ok
nottusus2001 (9:53:01 AM): all 55
nottusus2001 (9:53:11 AM): FMJ
artweaker (9:53:43 AM): buffer looks right?
nottusus2001 (9:53:54 AM): yes
artweaker (9:53:59 AM): you can hear the weights in it when you turn it end over end?
nottusus2001 (9:54:05 AM): yes
nottusus2001 (9:55:29 AM): When I try to pull the bolt on back it DOES NOT go out of sight in the ejecter port, it hits the back of the tube
artweaker (9:56:25 AM): but it does go behind the bolt catch right?
nottusus2001 (9:56:36 AM): yes
artweaker (9:56:39 AM): somewhere around an 1/8" back of the bolt catch?
nottusus2001 (9:57:19 AM): yes i just checked it
artweaker (9:57:31 AM): that works then
nottusus2001 (9:57:33 AM): it looks like about a 1/8
nottusus2001 (9:57:55 AM): but you can see the bolt lugs still
artweaker (9:58:22 AM): have you pulled the buffer out and checked the rear of the bumper on it?
nottusus2001 (9:58:34 AM): yes
nottusus2001 (9:58:39 AM): it is new
artweaker (9:58:49 AM): you're on the ball, I'm impressed


Confusing to read I know. Posted under the B2AFTP clause.

Photo's 3 and 4 are all I needed to see.  His deflector is being sprayed/shot gunned with the spent casing, with most being the rim that is hitting the deflector.

Step one is to pull the bolt, then pull the extractor and ejector off the bolt.

On the extractor, take a jewelers file to the groove channel just behind the claws and clean the end machine burs of the case rim channel groove. This will insure that the rim of the case is sitting fully in the channel at engagement.  Next is to run a small jewelers file flat on the claws (area that would make contact with the rim closest to the bullet tip) to make sure that there are not burs grabbing the rim on release. Then take a stone and take two strokes down the claws (45*) to break any edge burs at the claws that you didn’t get with the file. Note that I said break the edge, not stone the edges round.


On the ejector out of the bolt, look at the roll pin relief cut to clean up any burs, then spin polish the pin if it's rough.  On the extractor pin channel in the bolt face, you need to polish the channel.
The down and dirty way I have found (when I don’t have a reamer on hand) is to just use a Q-tip and polishing compound. With a few winds of the paper off the bare Q-tip, you can spin the bare paper rod with compound in an in/out motion to smooth the channel (burs caused when the roll pinhole was drilled and channel when the bolt was drill.  
Once your done polishing/reaming the channel, use the small relief hole in the back of the ejection channel to blow out/CLP out any left over compound.

Finish off the ejector polishing by taking a file and flushing out the ejector spring at the end of wind tips to make sure that the spring tips are not hang up on any grooves left behind after polishing (really only need to do this to the spring side against the ejector pin).

When you’re done, fire for effect and see if the cases are being deflected off the back end of the defector.  The spent cases will contact the deflector, but should be spin off to the 4:00 position about ten feet behind you, and not towards the delta ring that you are currently having on the rifle.

P.S. You need to check out the barrel extension lugs for burs.  It looks like the barrel extension has been chewing the shit out of the bolt lugs.

Dano:
I REALLY want to thank you for your time and telling me what to do.
I have tried to get the ejector pin out of the bolt. I have a set of roll pin punches, but the 1/16" punch will not fit in the hole. I messed up one bolt trying to get the pin out.
Any thinking on this matter, I am at a lost on this also.
I notice today when I was looking at the bolt going into the barrel ext. that the bolt hits the barrel groves just slightly when it goes into it. Just like that the bolt is not straight ahead. Like it is hanging down and therefore is hitting when it goes in to lock.
This is just as the bolt starts to enter the barrel nut lugs.
I really got a mess haven't I .
Again many thanks for all your input.
ttusus

How many clicks off center is your rear sight zeroed in.  

You may have room to re-index the barrel in the receiver, and get the barrel extension indexed with the bolt lugs.

FYI: Is there anyone around you that you can trust to spend some time going over the upper?
Granted that it's a Colt, it needs a once over to clean it up.

it is zeroed at 25 meters 82' with 3 clicks to the left.
No there isn't anyone close that does this. Just me. I bought all the tools to do this with, but I don't know how to head space it if I took the barrel out. I have gages, a no-go and a field gage.They are Forster gages.
While we are talking maybe you could tell me how to headspace this if you would. I feel with your guidance I could do this.
I am  66 years old, but willing to attempt this.I wish there was someone around, but not so. So, it is me or nothing,and I would like to get this fixed if I can.
Again, I want to thank so very much for your time,guidance and comments on this.
Thanks,
ttusus

As for getting the Roll pin out, use a small primer punch rod out of a reloading (resizing die) kit.  If you need one, I have replacements by the handful; I seem to break the shit out of them by mixing crimped cases with non-crimped cases during reloading. Just remember that after you get the roll pin out, the ejector/spring is going to try and shot across the room. Because of this, I drive the punch threw the bolt, then aim the bolt face down and pull the punch to allow the pin and spring to be caught by my bench mat/towel.

As for drifting/re-indexing the barrel/extension, you can use a leather mallet to strike the front sight base just above the barrel while holding the upper receiver only. This allows you to drift the entire barrel without having to loosen the barrel nut, nor remove the gas tube.  Just remember to check the gas tube inside the upper; you may have to tweak the tube to get it back to center for a clean engagment to the key on carrier closing.

I should note that the only problem I see  to drifting the barrel in the upper receiver to align the lugs is that the front sight is near zeroed for the current carry handle, which would mean that correcting the alignment of the barrel lugs might make the rear sight way off center when zeroed. Also, considering that the front sight is indexed correctly for rear sight zero currently, it makes me wonder if the carry handle on your rifle is an after market (not Colt) and the barrel was drifted over/re-indexed to correct for the carry handle being canted on the receiver. Since you’re not the original owner, it's hard to tell what happened/was used on the rifle before you bought it.

In regards to head spacing the barrel, the barrel to barrel-extension dictates that, and the barrel comes off with the extension still torque to the barrel.  The barrel nut just applies pressure to the back of the barrel extension to retain the whole unit (barrel and extension) in the upper receiver. Plus, the barrel extension is torque onto the barrel at 175 lbs, so you don't have to worry about it coming loose when you remove the barrel from the upper receiver.

Since you’re not close to me, I would suggiest that you post in the/your hometown forum and see if someone local can give you a hand on the repair.  You will be surprised to find that they’re a many guys around you that have the tools and talent to give you a hand of the repair. Anyone that reads this forum knows that I offer my hands on help to anyone in the Denver area, and hope that others in your area offer the same to others around them.

As for taking the rifle to a local smith if needed, make sure that the smith has a clue on repairing/tweaking the rifle.  I have seen even military armors that can't tweak, just swap parts if something is wrong.

If you get lost on something in the repair, or need further help, just post back here and we can walk your threw anything that comes up on the rifle/repair.

Tagged for future reference.

Dano, now you know why I did what I did right? Money well spent.

Danny