how do you get it out??

Slightly depress the ejector then drive out the pin with the correct size drift pinch.  When you pull the punch back out be sure and be prepared to catch the ejector and spring.

Getting it out is the easy part, just back the bolt up on a urethane block and drive the roll pin out.  My block (size of a hockey puck) has been V cut and  a hole in the center of the V to allow pins to be driven into the hole of the block.

The hard part on the ejector is getting it back in.  Start off my lightly driving the roll pin into the hole, and then insert the spring and ejector in the hole. Now rotate the ejector until a punch will fit into the roll pin hole from the opposite side and catch the slot.   If you leave the extractor on the bolt, you can use a spent case to hold the ejector in place, and finish driving in the roll pin the rest of the way.

thanks for the help.

Brownells also makes a [url=http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=880&title=BOLT+EJECTOR+TOOL&s=3306#3306]nifty bolt tool[/url]. I really like it. It greatly simplifies checking the ejector spring on the range w/o worrying about losing parts.

Colt teaches the empty case trick in their armorer classes but I've never had much luck with it. Takes all the dexterity in one hand for me to make it work. Then I still have to fiddle with the ejector's position, the hammer, and pin punch. It works for a lot of people tho.

As Dano said, armorer's blocks are great for this or a slightly opened vise with jaw caps.

At OAI we had a H/T pin driven into the leading edge of our benches, the ejector was pushed against the pin and the roll pin driven in.

Supposedly hitting the roll pin directly with the hammer is a nono but I've never had any worse luck doing that than using a pin punch.