I have a preban colt lower and I want to use an M16 carrier. The M16 carrier not having the cut interfers with the block over safety. Can I safely remove the block and how? Thanx!

Unless you are preparing the way for a NFA item, then leave the sear block in the receiver.  If you were looking to slow the action down, then a different buffer would solve the problem without devaluing the pre-ban rifle/receiver.  With the block removed, there is a single left in the receiver that would need to be filled (looks really ugly just left with the sear block pin hole left open to collect dust).

Plus, if you do plan on going the NFA way with a RDIAS, the pre-ban receiver would not be my first choices. I would use a post ban receiver that can be replaced for under $100 if I ever had a Kaboom.  Remember, once the RDIAS is installed, the semi automatic laws no longer apply to the rifle; the rifle simple becomes a host for the NFA item.

I am looking to slow down the action but it's because I have an NFA SBR (7.5") w/ ejection problems. By the way what's a RDIAS? and can you advise me how to remove the pins?  Also, why would the removal devalue the receiver? I could always reinstall, right?  Thanx.

RDIAS= registered drop in auto sear.

The block/pin is not just popped out.  The way to remove is to mill the block out of the receiver.  You vise the receiver up, then run an end mill close the pin side of inside of the receiver down the block. Once you have end milled past the retaining pin, then the block can be raised out, and what is left of the pin pressed into the cavity and remover.  

The only way to replace the block is to buy a new block, then press a new pin into the receiver/block to hold it in place.  

With the block removed, you are left with a hole on one side of the receiver.  Most people will have the hole welded shut, then the receiver refinished.

Granted, some have just used a dremil cut off wheel to remove the block (cutting the block off close to the exposed pin) they are still left with dealing with the hole.

As for slowing down the 7.5" look into a 9mm SMG buffer if it's a car. You can slow the unlock down by using a pigtail to delay the bolt opening up.

As for your receiver, because you have SBR the receiver, pulling the block may be an option, but remember to look into having it re-weld/re-finished to lose the left over hole.

Bottom line is that a 9mm SMG buffer goes for around $40 and a pigtail gas tube a little more.  The cost of removing the block, then having the receiver welded and refinished is going to run you in the hundreds.

Since the SBR is only a semi, modifying the receiver to use a M-16 bolt is wasted to gain the little of difference that the hooded carrier has to offer.

Note: since the buffer is a total waste on a semi rifle (bolt bounce has no effect on semi fire/bolt unlock), you could pull down a standard buffer and pack it with tungsten powder to weighted the buffer.  By adding a softer buffer technology bumper end, the mass of the modified buffer will slow unlock of the bolt, and the softer bumper end will soften the blow of the buffer to the end of the receiver extension.

I was under the impression that the block pin ends are swaged in place so that if they are cut off just inside the rcvr wall they will stay in place and filling the hole will not have to be dealt with.  Is this not true?

Dano523>>> I have a collapsible stock.  What solutions do I have now?  Also, can you help me out to understand your note at the end about filling with tungsten and how that solution plays into the whole thing... Is the tungsten in addition to the buffer replacement or a seperate solution. I appreciate your valued insight into this aggravating problem.

Lets just start at the beginning and post the problems that you are having with the SBR.

If you give me that information, then I can have it up and running with out having to spend a lot of money and time on band-aids to hide the real problem.