I don't usually post much, but if I have something helpfull I like to let people know.

I purchased a Brownells .556 Headspace Gauge for some builds and didn't want to remove the ejectors.

I purchased a Drimel Chainsaw Sharpening bit and used it to grind a space for the AR15 Ejector.
First I cut a small notch with a cutoff wheele to guide the bit into the gauge.




I wrapped the gauge in Blue Painters tape, mounted it in a vice and ground the slot.





Here it is shown instaled on a Bolt.
gauge is tipped



gauge fully seated



This modification took only minutes and is easy to do, just go very slow and take your time and check the cut often.
I hope this hepls some folks.
have a good one.

That's very clean, and a lot cheaper than the ejector tool.

Good work. Thought about doing that but figured I would screw it up. Glad it went so well. I will try that soon.

Do you still need to remove the entire extractor section of the bolt?

I'll be doing the same thing to my gage this morning or shortly thereafter.

I bought mine during Brownells free shipping offer a couple weeks back and it's still in plastic.

Is this a Go or a No-Go gauge ?





I'm confused.



ETA - Didn't mean to sidetrack, I like your modification idea.

edit. Noticed it was a field gauge.

I removed the extractor, because it can cause pressure on the gauge, I wanted a clean reading with pressuer coming from only the boltface.

This is a colt 2 field gauge, it is designed to notify you if the chamber is out of spec, if the bolt rotates or closes the rifle has too much headspace and is unsafe to fire.

Brilliant idea, now I have to dig out the Dremel.

Sick....love the minds of the folks here!!  Well, most of the minds...sorry 13ers..

That is a clean as hell slot, I will be doing this!

I did this to my gauge today.  Works like a champ.  Thanks for the tip.

nice. I'll have to get one of those bits for my Dremel  so I can do this.

While the ejector removal/installation tool (like Brownell's) is a slick and easy way to pull an ejector, it isn't exactly complex to do it without one.  You set the bolt in a "V" groove bench block to support it, and drive the ejector retaining pin out, taking your time to avoid hanging on the edges of the ejector bore.  The pin will really just fall out, and your punch now retains the ejector.  Now use both hands to push the ejector in a little, remove the punch, and release pressure on the ejector.  If you pay just a little attention, the ejector won't go anywhere.  

Installing is pretty much the reverse: put in the spring and ejector (watch where you align the retaining pin groove), and press in the ejector far enough to let you slide in a punch to hold it in place.  Now put the pin in and use a roll pin punch to gently tap it in (a "V" block with a hole to let the punch hang in works great for this) until the punch drops out.  It may take a few light taps to make sure the pin is at or below flush on both sides.  Not brain surgery, but having a bench block that lets you support the bolt this way really, really helps.

In my experience, the only time the ejector gets in the way is if you "maybe" have an issue with the bolt closing on a gauge.  The process I use is to "screen" the chamber/bolt combination with the ejector in place, and if the result is black and white, it's good.  The issue is whether it's the gauge or the ejector keeping a bolt from closing.    I only pull the ejector if the result isn't very clear-cut.

Where is your E-Store bro?