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That's very clean, and a lot cheaper than the ejector tool.
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While the ejector removal/installation tool (like Brownell's) is a slick and easy way to pull an ejector, it isn't exactly complex to do it without one. You set the bolt in a "V" groove bench block to support it, and drive the ejector retaining pin out, taking your time to avoid hanging on the edges of the ejector bore. The pin will really just fall out, and your punch now retains the ejector. Now use both hands to push the ejector in a little, remove the punch, and release pressure on the ejector. If you pay just a little attention, the ejector won't go anywhere.
Installing is pretty much the reverse: put in the spring and ejector (watch where you align the retaining pin groove), and press in the ejector far enough to let you slide in a punch to hold it in place. Now put the pin in and use a roll pin punch to gently tap it in (a "V" block with a hole to let the punch hang in works great for this) until the punch drops out. It may take a few light taps to make sure the pin is at or below flush on both sides. Not brain surgery, but having a bench block that lets you support the bolt this way really, really helps.
In my experience, the only time the ejector gets in the way is if you "maybe" have an issue with the bolt closing on a gauge. The process I use is to "screen" the chamber/bolt combination with the ejector in place, and if the result is black and white, it's good. The issue is whether it's the gauge or the ejector keeping a bolt from closing. I only pull the ejector if the result isn't very clear-cut.