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Posted: 7/22/2013 4:01:20 PM EDT
[#1]
Yes. It's a good idea . Are you going with a free float rail ?
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Posted: 7/22/2013 4:04:36 PM EDT
[#2]
i would put it on the barrel and in the upper to make install easier but not on the barrel threads.
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Posted: 7/22/2013 4:15:12 PM EDT
[#3]
No. Just use regular wheel bearing grease that you can buy at the auto parts store.
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Posted: 7/22/2013 4:20:47 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No. Just use regular wheel bearing grease that you can buy at the auto parts store. |
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Posted: 7/22/2013 4:22:59 PM EDT
[#5]
Anti-seize is what they use in conventional gunsmithing.
The M16/M4 Tech Manual specifies moly-fortified grease. https://www.ucwrg.com/materiel/weapon-lubrication/18/aeroshell-33ms-grease/ Edit: The "auto parts house" gang use it for personal lubrication and like the larger quantities available there. 
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Posted: 7/22/2013 4:43:24 PM EDT
[#6]
here we go.......again LOL
just get some aeroshell 33ms. it's the preferred grease of ARFCOM. it does what it's supposed to do, and with one tube your great grandchildren will still have some left over to assemble a bunch of uppers. |
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Posted: 7/22/2013 4:45:24 PM EDT
[#7]
+1 on Aeroshell, at least per the "manual"
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Posted: 7/22/2013 4:53:16 PM EDT
[#8]
I assembled an upper a couple of months ago and I used Aeroshell 33MS.
One of my good friends was an armorer in the Army (he recently got out) and he said that's all they use in the arms room. |
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Posted: 7/22/2013 5:28:56 PM EDT
[#9]
Go to the link Direct Drive provided, send them $5, get 1/2 oz of a product that meets MIL-G specs for assembling barrels onto uppers, and call it done. No reason to screw around with "maybe this will work" or "nobody I know has had their gun dissolve from using this other stuff". Seriously, get the stuff from Umbrella Corp and do it right.
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Posted: 7/22/2013 5:30:53 PM EDT
[#10]
Aeroshell 33 MS grease is what's specified. Any moly (molybdenum) fortified grease will probably do. Avoid anything with graphite in it.
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Posted: 7/23/2013 12:51:01 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes. It's a good idea . Are you going with a free float rail ? |
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Posted: 7/23/2013 12:58:33 AM EDT
[#12]
Thanks, all, for the replies. I just ordered the small quantity of Aeroshell from the link above. Like I said, I made a number of mistakes on my first build, and I am trying not to repeat them by having the proper tools and materials this time.
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Posted: 7/23/2013 7:05:43 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Last time I built an AR was over 20 years ago, and I know I made some mistakes then (never mind what...at least it functioned when I was done!) I never knew then if I was supposed to put anti-seize on the upper receiver threads before installing the barrel. So, I am asking now: anti-seize, or no? Aeroshell 33 grease, or equivalent containing no graphite! Anti seize contains graphite |
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Posted: 7/24/2013 6:53:21 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks, all, for the replies. I just ordered the small quantity of Aeroshell from the link above. Like I said, I made a number of mistakes on my first build, and I am trying not to repeat them by having the proper tools and materials this time. Put a dab of it on your hammer/trigger engagement surfaces too. |
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Posted: 7/24/2013 7:25:51 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Put a dab of it on your hammer/trigger engagement surfaces too. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Thanks, all, for the replies. I just ordered the small quantity of Aeroshell from the link above. Like I said, I made a number of mistakes on my first build, and I am trying not to repeat them by having the proper tools and materials this time. Put a dab of it on your hammer/trigger engagement surfaces too. Good adevice ^^^ I also use it on muzzle threads, RE threads, detent grooves and to lube roll pins before driving. |
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Posted: 7/24/2013 7:36:31 AM EDT
[#16]
Do yourself a favor and just buy the correct grease which is as stated above, AeroShell 33MS. Check the EE here, there was a member selling it or buy it from the link provided above. This grease is cheap and readily available so there's no reason to use anything else.
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Posted: 7/24/2013 4:52:20 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do yourself a favor and just buy the correct grease which is as stated above, AeroShell 33MS. Check the EE here, there was a member selling it or buy it from the link provided above. This grease is cheap and readily available so there's no reason to use anything else. As I mentioned above, I DID order some. |
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Posted: 7/25/2013 3:01:10 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Put a dab of it on your hammer/trigger engagement surfaces too. .......it quiets squeaky doors quite nicely also 
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Posted: 7/25/2013 9:33:29 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks, all, for the replies. I just ordered the small quantity of Aeroshell from the link above. Like I said, I made a number of mistakes on my first build, and I am trying not to repeat them by having the proper tools and materials this time. Best choice IMO. Proven by the military in millions of weapons for decades in most every imaginable environment on the planet. |
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Posted: 7/25/2013 4:34:24 PM EDT
[#20]
Now, do I actually put it on the receiver threads, or on the barrel where it goes into the receiver, or both?
Also, I know the torque spec on the barrel nut is supposed to be something around 30 lb/ft (what exactly is it, please?), but what do I do if I get to that point and the nearest "notch" doesn't quite line up with the hole for the gas tube? Tighten it until it lines up, or loosen it? |
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Posted: 7/25/2013 10:05:15 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Now, do I actually put it on the receiver threads, or on the barrel where it goes into the receiver, or both? Also, I know the torque spec on the barrel nut is supposed to be something around 30 lb/ft (what exactly is it, please?), but what do I do if I get to that point and the nearest "notch" doesn't quite line up with the hole for the gas tube? Tighten it until it lines up, or loosen it? Torque is 30-80 ft-lbs. I put a nice coat of Aeroshell 33MS on the barrel extension, on the barrel nut threads, and on the receiver threads. I then set the wrench to 45 ft-lbs. and tighten until the barrel nut aligns with the gas tube. Then I break torque and do the process two more times. If the barrel nut does not align with the gas tube, increase the poundage in 10 or 15 lb. increments until it lines up (not to exceed 80 ft.- lbs.). Hope this helps. |
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Posted: 7/26/2013 12:44:24 AM EDT
[#22]
30 - 80ft lbs .....you know a new member here sent me pm's and actually used the recommended ft lbs 32 to 38ft lbs, and it wouldn't align, he then used I think X2 .001 shims and it all worked out..barrel shims, they are made so you don't go past the recommended torque range.
The books that say 80ft lbs, is like saying.....hey "If you go any further you will probably break "X" amount of items. |
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Posted: 7/26/2013 6:32:56 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Now, do I actually put it on the receiver threads, or on the barrel where it goes into the receiver, or both? Also, I know the torque spec on the barrel nut is supposed to be something around 30 lb/ft (what exactly is it, please?), but what do I do if I get to that point and the nearest "notch" doesn't quite line up with the hole for the gas tube? Tighten it until it lines up, or loosen it? I typically use XF-7 on the BE, but very light coat of whatever you use. Generous amount on the upper’s threads, the threads of the nut, and where the nut clamps/contacts the barrel assmb. Never back off unless you back completely off and start over. For final line up I set the torque wrench to 80 and go until the nut lines up or the wrench clicks. Read the TM. |
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Posted: 7/26/2013 2:11:41 PM EDT
[#24]
Did anyone notice the disclaimer on the Umbrella Corp site? *Not suitable for personal lubrication. 
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Posted: 7/26/2013 2:31:53 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did anyone notice the disclaimer on the Umbrella Corp site? *Not suitable for personal lubrication. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did anyone notice the disclaimer on the Umbrella Corp site? *Not suitable for personal lubrication. Back in post #5... Quoted:
Anti-seize is what they use in conventional gunsmithing. The M16/M4 Tech Manual specifies moly-fortified grease. https://www.ucwrg.com/materiel/weapon-lubrication/18/aeroshell-33ms-grease/ Edit: The "auto parts house" gang use it for personal lubrication and like the larger quantities available there.
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