Quoted: I'm having the same problem with the tube type and a 4-rail and no luck with a strap wrench cold. Instead of the torch heat applied, I wonder if simply putting it in an oven set at 200-300 or so for a few minutes would loosen it.
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Depends. If the railed tube section is aluminum and the barrel nut it threads onto is steel then it should work well because aluminum heats faster and expands faster as it heats when compared to steel. But if both parts are aluminum then they will expand at the same rate. In that case you'll want to use a torch to dump a lot of heat into the rear of the tube and work quicklty to remove it before the heat transfers into the nut.
If loctite was used then you will need to get it hot enough to melt the loctite. And oven may be able to do that but since it heats the entire part it will take much longer to heat and you're stuck trying to take a 400 degree part out of the oven, clamped into a vice and the part loosened all before it cools down too much.
Best advise is to go to Walmart and spend the 10 or 20 bucks on a cheap propane torch.
Also, isn't there a lock ring at the rear of the HG section threaded onto the barrel nut also that needs to be loosened first? |
Not on the DPMS free float tube or on the similar designs from places like Bushmaster or Hogue. Locking rings and similar mechanisms are needed for railed handguards because you need to be able to keep the rails on top, bottom and sides. When you don't have rails you just thread it on and it tightens against a shoulder on the barrel nut.
When removing railed handguards you need to loosen any locking rings or other locking devices before trying to remove it.