Hi All,
Just finished my build a few weeks ago, and I'd like to take her out for a spin at the range this weekend.  My only question is--- how do I know everything is safe?  It functions flawlessly when cycling and dry-firing snap caps, and nothing seems to hang up or bind, but how will I know it's safe for sure.  Here's what I built:

RRA Stripped lower receiver

RRA LPK

JT Distributing six position buttstock with tube & spring

RRA 20" upper with UTE2 receiver and free float aluminum barrell (purchases DIRECTLY from RRA)

Magpul MIAD grip

Is there some kind of dry-run procedure I should go through to make sure everything is a go?  Do I need to headspace it?  My Dad says he's going to stand far away the first time I fire it!  :  )   Now he's got me second-guessing.  Though, as I said, everything SEEMS to function flawlessly (and I didn't have any parts leftover).  -Mike

No advice????

Assuming all your parts are new and you checked your trigger function, everything should be fine to go shoot. Only problems might be headspace, but that usually only happens with a well used bolt or barrel. You should be good to go.

I would buy a set of go-No-go gauges to check the head space. That is a critical part- if gotten wrong can cause the gun to blow up. Remember, to get all 3 gauges GO,  NO-GO, FIELD . Never fire any weapon that closes on a FIELD gauge.

I see tons of people buying used bolts off this forum.............and wonder how many of them have a set of head-space gauges and "Use" them. Just switching to a new or "new" used bolt can have severe consequences............if the bolt doesn't marry up to the Barrel & extension properly.

Remember to read the shake down list posted on this forum.......it has a lot of good info for firing the weapon for the first time.............Like load only ONE round, for the first volley. Then 2 rounds the second try......and so on. Perform the "45 degree" test for the bolt and carrier.

Oh,............. good luck !  

JF.

Hey Sniper 350- thanks for the advice.  I purchased the upper brand new from RRA-- direct from the factory.  Do they check headspacing at the factory?  Would you still recommend that I get the headspace gauges even if the upper is brand new-- just to be sure???

Does anyone know if RRA test fires their uppers?

My trigger works really well, the safety does it's job, everything cycles fine, and it's a solid rifle.

To test after I field strip a rifle or build one I always pull the charging handle back and use the bolt catch to lock it back. Then release the bolt, pull the trigger and hold it back, pull the charging handle back again and let the bolt go forward, now release the trigger and you should hear a click. Then pull the trigger and the hammer should drop normally. BE SAFE don’t have any ammo around when you are doing this so none finds its way into your gun. This may not be the best method and I am sure someone will have a much more advanced method to test a new rifle but it’s worked so far for me.

Thanks Rvogster--
I'll give that a try tonight.  After Sniper 350s post I called RRA and talk to one of their tech guys.  He says that all RRA complete uppers are checked for headspace and test-fired at the factory.  So I feel pretty confident about that now.  I'll do the procedure you recommended and also check out that shake down procedure post.

Any recommendations on best ammo for initial shooting--- brands, weight, etc.   I've got a standard 20" barrel.

Thanks Again!!!

If you haven't already, clean everything thoroughly, because it is brand new, keep well lubed.

Yes, if you bought the complete upper from RRA.....they are Careful to always check the head-space.
So you should be fine............my caution was if you were going to mix and match bolts or carriers during your build.

Just go slow with you test session.....and you will be fine.  Don't be afraid to use CLP during the break-in period. I like to keep my carrier and bolt on the wet side the first few hundred rounds.

Remember, one of the important aspects of CLP is to break down carbon deposits as they are formed, so allowing the CLP to do its magic during break-in will make cleaning a whole lot easier.

JF.

I usually grit my teeth, turn my head and pull the trigger,  if that works I pull it again,  after 3 pulls I will actually look through the sights!

J/K  I have complete confidence in my work,  I own a set of headpsace guages,   that I check,   a word of advice the RRA rep told me on a 9mm upper though,  BE SURE TO CHECK HEADSPACE when switching from a complete 9mm upper to an old Colt A1 Slickside.  which is by far the funest gun I have ever built to shoot.  Pointless but fun.  

you just gotta take her out and try it.   Will prolly find some kinda hicuup or two,  I always do,  something simple or stupid like the hammer pin walks out or stuff like that,  

Hey guys,
Went shooting yesterday, and all your advice paid off.  I gave the rifle the 'rvogster' test Friday night, and went out to get some CLP per Sniper 350's advice.  Everything worked perfectly at the range!  With iron sights at 100yards my best groups were between 1.25" and 1.5 inch- with some obvious flyers here nad there- but when I got it right the rifle delivered.  I was very happy with this on the first time out.  Only had to click rear sight to the left by one click- then she was dead on.

Thanks again for the help guys!

Congrats on the completed build!

Just go to the range and lay it on the table till someone starts to admire it. When they ask if they can shoot it say sure and back up.

Quoted: Just go to the range and lay it on the table till someone starts to admire it. When they ask if they can shoot it say sure and back up.

omg fookin crackin me up!!! lol

Now, just out of curiosity, say your headspace is off somehow... how would you fix that? I mean I know how to headspace a FAL and it's a largley trial and error process because the locking lug is built into the reciver. But on the AR everything is built onto the barrel extension.

Quoted: Now, just out of curiosity, say your headspace is off somehow... how would you fix that? I mean I know how to headspace a FAL and it's a largley trial and error process because the locking lug is built into the reciver. But on the AR everything is built onto the barrel extension.

Basically new bolt and/or barrel , whichever it out of spec. If it's a new barrel that was short chambered (like a match barrel might be) you would have to ream the chamber to proper headspace.

anybody hava a source for (afforbable) headspace gauges?