I decided to cannibalize my Bushmaster HBAR, and was going to build a "cheap" rifle with the leftover parts.

Ummm, yeah.  Why is it that once these builds get underway, they're  like freight trains, in that mass + momentum = an inability to stop...

So here I am with about $1000 more in parts than I had imagined, and I'm thinking, the barrel is the (only leftover original) part of the rifle that is the weakest.  

So my question to you all is, if you were going to build a 14.5, 16, or 18 inch precision rig, what barrel would you use?

I'm having the same problem.  Fun isn't it?  Ah hem . . .

In my opinion, I would suggest a match grade stainless barrel from one of the many popular suppliers including White Oak, Noveske, Bushmaster, etc.  Basically anything that isn't chrome-lined will improve your ability to shoot accurately.

I just learned this the hard way yesterday at the range with my newly free-floated 20" Bushmaster Hbar.  I shot 45, 55, 60, and 69 grainers at 50 yards and was lucky to get 2 MOA.  Unacceptable for a precision rifle.

It's obvious I haven't spent enough money yet  


Winchester 45g JHP white box


UMC 55g FMJ


Black Hills blue box w/Hornady 60g V-max


Black Hills blue box w/Sierra MatchKing HPBT

Dammit Beavis.

Helpful but depressing post.

Thanks.  I'll be over here -> surfing barrel sites...

glock24 - is that a brand new barrel, or just brand new freefloated?  If it's a brand new chromy, I've found it takes at least 200rnds down the tube for things to polish up.  I have a 24" bushy chrome lined on my Varminter.  It's sometimes picky about what it eats, but with the right loads, it does very well.

tucansam - If I were to do the precision barrel thing again, I'd be talking to john holliger at WOA to see what he had available.  Seems to be top end stuff with a respectable price tag.

Gundraw

Noveske Stainless Steel Mid-length SPR contour 18" turned down a bit under the handguards, fluting from gas block forward, low profile gas block underneath a rifle length upper.  I have found this barrel to be insanely accurate, constant sub-MOA even when dirty, and it obtains respectable bullet velocity.

Get it off that bipod,   I have not met an AR that I couldnt make it shoot 1/2" groups at 100yds.  Get rid of that factory shit and Reload, reload reload.  seems retarded when you put the words AR15 and reloading in the same sentence,  but trust me you can cut groups in half with some tinkering.  I have found Bipods to be pretty much shit to use when shooting for groups,  get a good rest like the Sinclair,  I have one of em,  cost me a fortune but it Works ($250 got it here)  

Trigger
Free Floater
good amunition
Stainless Steel (easier break in)  or Chro Moly,  stay away from Crome lining when accuracy is what your looking for. .  

oh and MONEY   gotta get some of this!!  an AR will make you cry when you start buying this and that for it.  it adds up quickly!!  My very first AR was a Colt match Target comp that when I got done the lower/upper was the only thing stock on it and had $2500+ in it,  since then I have found this website so building got cheaper and I learned dont start with a complete colt rifle!

Also if it wont shoot right,  Break it in using 100 rounds,   20 single shot cleans (just barrel) 10 3 shot groups clean after 3rd shot,  10 5 shot groups and clean after 5th shot.  Yes there are better ways,  but this works for me.  The last gun I did this way was a Bolt 7mm Mag,  took 7.5 hours at my buddies shooting setup to get all 100 rounds done.  so you might want to make it in 2+ trips.  
In the process I found the barrel picked up way less copper at the end than the beggining, at first it was a bitch to clean and after a while cleaning was a snap.  I aint talking run a patch brush and patch I am talking NO COPPER Left,   gotta get it all out,  

my 20 " hbar had around 600 rds thru it,and the last group i shot at 100 yards was 3/4 inch,before i took it off.bushmaster chromed standard hbar. but i was using reloads,and I just used the load on the side of the powder bottle.no freefloat, crappy trigger and all.12 power ancient weaver scope on the carry handle, so yours should do much better than what you're getting...

I agree that reloading can really help your groups.  But I do expect you should be getting a little better results from that setup.  Are you sure it's completely freefloated.  I see the endcap still on the rifle. are you sure that isn't touching anything?

Yes, stainless steel CAN be inherently more accurate.  But there are plenty accurate chrome lined barrels out there.  Many of the accuracy rumors about chrome lining are 90% B.S.

Not even gonna start with the Voodoo of "barrel breakin".  Could argue for days about that.  If Gale McMillan doesn't need it, I don't.

Quoted: I have not met an AR that I couldnt make it shoot 1/2" groups at 100yds.

No offense, but I'd say that's a little far fetched.  And I'm not talking freak luck 1/2"  3 shot groups either.


Gundraw