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Posted: 3/19/2006 12:24:24 AM EDT
[#1]
I've got $385 invested in a SP1 ish rifle. All Colt upper and DPMS lower. It takes a good bit of patience and a close eye on the used parts in the EE. Some of it was trade items. I spotted good deals on items I knew I could use as trade stock and bought them right and traded for the parts I wanted.
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Posted: 3/19/2006 12:32:55 AM EDT
[#2]
Without defining the quality variable it's not possible to answer your question without making assumptions that may differ from your own.
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Posted: 3/19/2006 12:42:34 AM EDT
[#3]
umm, what I meant what is all the parts you need like do you only need a ar15 upper and lower than bam your done or do you need other parts, I just want to know the lowest you could build a basic ar15 for with at least a 16 inch barrel. Im a newb at ar15s right now....
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Posted: 3/19/2006 1:24:50 AM EDT
[#4]
My route: Stripped lower, lower parts kit, A1 buttstock with tube buffer and spring, barrel, handguards, upper, bolt carrier group/charging handle. I found it much easier to get it one little part at a time than buying a whole upper and lower. You can find some seriously cheap parts if you put it together yourself. |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 1:53:21 AM EDT
[#5]
So far the A2 I am building has run me:
Stock buffer spring and tube 35$ BM A2 Upper (needed a dust cover and a FA assy 21$) 65+21 =86$ Bolt and charging handle (Newish) 100$ Lower parts kit DPMS 50$ Lower Superior arms 85$ Rifle Hand guards colt and delta ring 20$ Barrel 1/9 w fsb and gas tube 90$ 20in (500-100rdc) All off the EE over 30 days. Total $446 I have yet to assemble it. |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 11:27:53 AM EDT
[#6]
what is better a 1:7 or a 1:9 rifling?
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Posted: 3/19/2006 11:44:49 AM EDT
[#7]
The biggest advantage of 1:7 is it is capable of stabilizing the newer heavy 75gr, 77,gr, 80 gr self defense loads. |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 12:43:20 PM EDT
[#8]
New or used? The best way to get a low priced AR15 through building is to get parts cheaply. The great deals are out there, but they go quick. |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 12:47:03 PM EDT
[#9]
Is this a good deal, I think comes with the parts for the upper it says but no barrel becuase its a stripped upper, I want a A3 but ill have to go with a A2
http://www.commandsurplus.com/cs/dpms-upper-receiver-unassembled-ar15-a2-matte-p-59904.html?SKU=UR-01-A2B |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 1:12:13 PM EDT
[#10]
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Posted: 3/19/2006 1:13:32 PM EDT
[#11]
have you checked the EE there are lots of good deals to be had in there
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Posted: 3/19/2006 2:03:10 PM EDT
[#12]
$160: complete A1 16in LW CL upper, pretty sure it was part colt--used (EE)
$105: stripped MEGA lower w/ FFL fees $52: DPMS LPK (industry forum) $39: RRA CAR stock (EE) Total: $356
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Posted: 3/19/2006 2:31:31 PM EDT
[#13]
DPMS looks good but who makes the best lowers and uppers in yalls opinions?
Ill check out the "EE" sometime but im just doint research and junk right now |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 2:47:18 PM EDT
[#14]
You are trying to do things the expensive way.....
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Posted: 3/19/2006 5:38:24 PM EDT
[#15]
I will have less than $580 in my A2 build. Assuming that the lower and it's guts will cost me ~$200. This is my first build too. I could have went cheaper, but I wanted better quality parts that were new or like new.
My goal was to define the general build, be very selective on the parts where it counted, waiting until I had a $25 order to get free shipping from DPMS, and being patient lurking at EE and Gunbrokers. It may not be the cheepest build, but it is definately a lot of bang for the buck. It will look new and I am sure, function like new. A2 upper with sight assembly like (like new) New small parts for the upper 100% complete barrel assembly, Delta ring to FH, with less than 60 rounds through it (like new) New A2 stock New complete bolt assembly and charging handle New lower and guts. |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 6:26:11 PM EDT
[#16]
I would like to pay around 500, a new upper and lower with bolt junk would cost 400 then stock+barrel would be around 600+ im guessing... but im going to build this over time so it will be ok
I guess I was a little misleading when I said cheapest way possible, i wanted to know the cheapest possible way with new stuff, but I kinda got it now(I think), some used stuff will be fine too but id like a new barrel mainly |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 6:28:45 PM EDT
[#17]
What are the parts that have to be shipped to a FFL?
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Posted: 3/19/2006 6:29:35 PM EDT
[#18]
Just under $400 with a m16A1 clone. That includes all shipping.
Looks rough...but shoots great. 
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Posted: 3/19/2006 6:30:15 PM EDT
[#19]
a stripped AR lower, and a kit from JTD or del-ton if you dont want to wait and see in the EE....
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Posted: 3/19/2006 6:38:44 PM EDT
[#20]
only the stripped lower
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Posted: 3/19/2006 7:24:56 PM EDT
[#21]
Stripped lower $95 + $5 tax at my local friendly dealer (Got 2, a matched pair)
Complete A2 upper with bolt and handle (16 inch, chromed, threaded, bayo lug, etc NO-Ban) $470 shipped from the internet (found them here, ordered via website) Lower parts $60 shipped 6 pos buttstock $69 shipped 30 rd magazine $30 at local gun show (+ 2 more at $18 over the net) Total $729 for all NEW parts, upper and lower RRA. I could have saved $12 on the mag, $60 for non chromed barrel (A2 or flattop), and $20 for a conventional stock, so it could have cost me $637, again for a NEW rifle. I have yet to build it, I am waiting on the 9mm upper, mag block and hammer to build them both at the same time, one .223 and one 9mm. Got 500 rounds of each, and I am gonna have some priceless fun down at the range. |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 8:13:26 PM EDT
[#22]
Cheapest I've built from new parts was $570. On a $150. lower receiver (going rate in NY). I have another AR that I built on an old Century receiver for $155., using my old parts left over from other guns. I've just started checking the EE and have seen some good deals
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Posted: 3/20/2006 5:00:31 PM EDT
[#23]
Say you bought a lower from EE how would you get that a FFL transfer too, im guessing
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Posted: 3/20/2006 11:40:18 PM EDT
[#24]
are you asking how does a FFL transfer work, in general?  if so: --get/find/call you local firearm dealers/FFLers and ask em if they do FFL transfers and how much they charge PER firearm--prices can go from $10-10% the price of the firearm (like one of my FFLs  )--when you find a local FFL dealer you wish to deal with, you need to get a signed copy of his FFL (some dealer will send it out for you, others will let you send it out) --mail it to seller of the firearm (along w/ payment--just dont forget to pay!); upon verifying the FFL and getting funds, the seller ships the firearm to your FFL dealer; you can also fax the copy, but most will only accept a physical, blue/red/etc ink signed FFL copy --the FFL dealer will recieve the firearm that you paid for and "transfer" it to you by doing the background checks, paperwork, etc, and charge you the fee tips: -FFLs can be verified online though the ATF (i think), you just need the licence # -maintain contact w/ both the FFL dealer and the seller -keep your FFL dealer up to date and try to give him a expect from and date for firearm arrival |
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Posted: 3/21/2006 12:17:19 AM EDT
[#25]
Get a stripped Cavarms lower from the EE with parts kit included. $145 add the buffer and spring $15
http://dsgarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=554 Top it with an inexpensive upper. The Like new USGI M16a1 Surplus uppers that float around for about $285 are a perfect complement. Add a brand new Bolt/Bolt Carrier for about $100 And you have a like new, light weight, accurate, reliable weapon. Trust me, you will like it.
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Posted: 3/24/2006 11:20:11 AM EDT
[#26]
Sarco, Inc has complete A1 kits minus the lower for $425 add a lower for about $110 equals $535. The A1 has the 1/12 barrel, and three prong flash suppresser. That’s the cheapest but I would spend a little more and get a barrel with a 1/9 twist and chrome lined. |
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