Metal finishing..

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Posted: 1/18/2006 8:05:16 AM EDT

What would you guys recomend using to apply some sort of black finish to Stainless Steel? Something that doesn't flake or peel off, and should wear as good as park or blueing.

Anything I can do myself?

Posted: 1/18/2006 10:30:08 AM EDT

[#1]

Duracoat or Norrel's molyresin.

Either will give excellent results but be sure to bead blast the SS prior to applying the product.

Posted: 1/18/2006 10:57:31 AM EDT

[#2]

Probably going to have to take it to my 'smith to have the bead blasting done then...

Thanks!

Posted: 1/18/2006 11:34:07 AM EDT

[#3]

Anyone have any experience with Duracoat?

Posted: 1/18/2006 4:00:14 PM EDT

[#4]

If your going to use Moly, KG, DuraCoat or CeraKote do not bead blast the exterior. Use 120 grit alum oxide to rough up the surface and remove imperfection in the surface. Using beads will give a polishing effect to the surface and will not give a good enough bite for the coating to adhere to.

Any of the modern firearms finishes if properly applied will give you years of good looking service. Each has its strengths and weaknesses. For information on CeraKote & DuraCOat there is a page of info on each & a color chart for them on my website: LTM Refinishing

If you have any questions on the coating's or application give me a call.

Joe

Posted: 1/18/2006 6:08:37 PM EDT

[#5]

Quoted:
Duracoat or Norrel's molyresin.

Either will give excellent results but be sure to bead blast the SS prior to applying the product.

Please stop telling people to BEAD BLAST, as you are giving them flawed information.

I'm not sure if people don't understand the difference between bead and sand blasting, or if this is just an ARF myth that won't die, but there is a large difference. DO NOT BEAD BLAST if you are looking to top coat with Norrells, DC, GK etc..

Posted: 1/18/2006 8:49:30 PM EDT

[#6]

Enforcer, Stick, I really appreciate it!

I have a S&W 5906 that internally looks great, and it shoots great, just saw a lot of time in a holster before I got it and was thinking of doing a black finish that I can give some genuine wear

Posted: 1/18/2006 10:22:22 PM EDT

[#7]

I'm not sure if people don't understand the difference between bead and sand blasting, or if this is just an ARF myth that won't die, but there is a large difference. DO NOT BEAD BLAST if you are looking to top coat with Norrells, DC, GK etc..

Why is that? Texture difference or what?

Posted: 1/18/2006 10:28:17 PM EDT

[#8]

ya why is that guys? I have a stainless 1911 that was just bead blasted and I was thinking about DCing it.....suggestions?

Posted: 1/19/2006 3:09:06 AM EDT

[#9]

The biggest difference is that glass beads are round and sand, aluminum oxide and silicon carbide have angular shapes and take a deeper bite into the metal.

Posted: 1/19/2006 5:07:21 AM EDT

[#10]

Quoted:
ya why is that guys? I have a stainless 1911 that was just bead blasted and I was thinking about DCing it.....suggestions?

Have it sandblasted, as the bead blasted surface is too smooth for decent adhesion.

Posted: 1/19/2006 5:34:11 AM EDT

[#11]

Jonathan where are you located in wa? I'm in marysville and I just finished my colt commander 1991A1 in Norrell's moly resin flat black soccom. This stuff is awesome easy to use. I purchased a mini sandblaster made by paasche that worked great. What are you trying to refinsh?

Hey Stick what state are you in?

Edwin

Posted: 1/19/2006 7:27:56 AM EDT

[#12]

Quoted:
Quoted:
Duracoat or Norrel's molyresin.

Either will give excellent results but be sure to bead blast the SS prior to applying the product.

Please stop telling people to BEAD BLAST, as you are giving them flawed information.

I'm not sure if people don't understand the difference between bead and sand blasting, or if this is just an ARF myth that won't die, but there is a large difference. DO NOT BEAD BLAST if you are looking to top coat with Norrells, DC, GK etc..

I'll go to my hole now.

Posted: 1/19/2006 7:28:53 AM EDT

[#13]

Have it sandblasted, as the bead blasted surface is too smooth for decent adhesion.

Wouldn't it depend on the size of grit you're using in your grit blaster?

Posted: 1/19/2006 8:35:20 AM EDT

[#14]

Quoted:
Wouldn't it depend on the size of grit you're using in your grit blaster?

The SHAPE of the media maters more in this application.

Posted: 1/19/2006 10:11:18 AM EDT

[#15]

Quoted:

The SHAPE of the media maters more in this application.

Gotcha.

Posted: 1/19/2006 12:45:56 PM EDT

[#16]

Jonathan where are you located in wa? I'm in marysville and I just finished my colt commander 1991A1 in Norrell's moly resin flat black soccom. This stuff is awesome easy to use. I purchased a mini sandblaster made by paasche that worked great. I used aluminum oxide as my media. What are you trying to refinsh?

Hey Stick what state are you in?

Edwin

Posted: 1/19/2006 1:09:28 PM EDT

[#17]

I concur. The only way to go is with a sharp media blasting. (Read sand or specialized media like aluminum oxide blasting) I have a nice sized cabinet and go back and forth from glass bead to several grades of aluminum oxide depending on application. Glass being round will close the pores of the metal. Aluminum oxide will open them because it has a sharp surface. I’ve used crushed walnut shells and triangle shaped plastic media on different items. Keep it sharp if you want to GunKote.

I forget to change media once and used glass bead on a pistol frame. About 10% of the GunKote flaked off. I ran it back through after switching to aluminum oxide and 100% stuck..

I love the stuff. I can’t imagine doing an AR in plain old parkerizing and anodizing.

Here is their site: http://www.kgcoatings.com/gunkote.html

Follow directions and everything will be fine.

Posted: 1/19/2006 3:03:35 PM EDT

[#18]

Scroll down to stainless steel blackener
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/metal.htm

Quoted:
What would you guys recomend using to apply some sort of black finish to Stainless Steel? Something that doesn't flake or peel off, and should wear as good as park or blueing.

Anything I can do myself?

Posted: 1/19/2006 7:04:13 PM EDT

[#19]

I refinish a lot of stainless steel. You dont need to add anything extra or put additional steps in the process. All that is required is that the surface be clean & properly prepped.

Joe

Posted: 1/19/2006 8:43:30 PM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:

I'll go to my hole now.

No need to banish yourself, I just don't want to see you or anyone else end up with problems. If I fail to mention something when I know its wrong, that makes me just as responsible as the person doing the work.

Posted: 1/19/2006 8:51:38 PM EDT

[#21]

Stick & Jonathan

When I get a chance I'll post some pictures. My next project will be my AR after I get the barrel cut.

Jonathan e-mail me, maybe if your close you can come over and use what I have?

Posted: 1/20/2006 3:00:32 AM EDT

[#22]

What about using a fine sand paper? I would assume it gives similar finish than sand blasting. Further, I'd assume the technique used does not play the main part but the result. Any experiences?

Posted: 1/20/2006 4:38:45 PM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:
What about using a fine sand paper? I would assume it gives similar finish than sand blasting. Further, I'd assume the technique used does not play the main part but the result. Any experiences?

Personally I'd recommend sticking with blasting. The last thing you want is that coating not to stick in a spot and ruin all your hard work. You could probably get away with sanding but the lightest I'd go is 320 to 400 grit. And you will need to be able to sand in every little nook & cranny to get the same effect as blasting. Most automotive repair shops & auto body shops will have a blast cabinet, you will probably need to take in the alum oxide media though.

The condition and how you prep an item for refinishing is one of the most important parts of the project. This is the foundation for the coating to be applied over. Most of the finish problems (flaking, pealing, & easily rubbed off) I see are in someway associated with a short cut or skipping a step during this part.

Its your stuff and you can do what you want to it. But I would seriously encourage anyone interested in completing a do it yourself refinish reading stickmans how to thread or getting the DVD from Lauer. And please follow the instructions of the coating manufacturer. They know the best way to apply their product.

Joe

Posted: 1/22/2006 10:59:51 AM EDT

[#24]

Stick

Will heating the gun fully assembled ruin the temper of the springs?

Posted: 1/22/2006 1:13:11 PM EDT

[#25]

Quoted:
Stick

Will heating the gun fully assembled ruin the temper of the springs?

No, the springs will all be fine. Quite often I coat the springs as well.

Posted: 1/22/2006 1:14:51 PM EDT

[#26]

Quoted:
What about using a fine sand paper? I would assume it gives similar finish than sand blasting. Further, I'd assume the technique used does not play the main part but the result. Any experiences?

Like Enforcer commented, it may be possible with enough time, but I've yet to see it ever turn out as well. The application method is different, and I've been less than impressed when I've done it.

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