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Posted: 1/17/2006 4:41:44 PM EDT
[#1]
It is not too bad. I had to wail away on the pins for a while with one of my rifles, but they will come out. they come out the same side as the cased eject IIRC.
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Posted: 1/17/2006 5:08:04 PM EDT
[#2]
First off WELCOME to the site!
Don't waste your money on a new upper. It's very easy to take the front sight base off, as long as the flash hider is not permanently attached to the barrel. just unscrew the muzzle device, tap the 2 pins out from under the front sight base, wiggle it until it comes off, but don't wiggle it so much it bends the gas tube. Make sure you look closely at the pins on both sides of the front sight base. Some of the pins are bigger on one side and smaller on the other. Tap the smallest end so they come out, if you tap the bigger end, you'll just break the pin, or mess up your front sight base. Most pins are the same size on both ends, so I doubte that will be a problem... |
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Posted: 1/17/2006 5:13:48 PM EDT
[#3]
Not hard. Some can be a super hard to get out, but in the end its only two pins so not that bad. Make sure you can take the flash hider off first, as said.
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Posted: 1/17/2006 5:14:38 PM EDT
[#4]
It works better if you let a few drops of Kroil soak in the pin area first. Use the right size punch and it should come out.
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Posted: 1/17/2006 5:17:07 PM EDT
[#5]
Remove the handguards and take a 1/16" pin punch and drive out the gas tube roll pin. Support the front sight base on a block of wood, or better yet, put a 4mm socket under each pin as you drive it out. That way, you'll be supporting the front sight base, and the pin will have somewhere to go (inside the socket) when driven out. If it has taper pins (most do), they will drive out left to right, which is the same direction that the takedown pins pull out. I use a 3/32" nail set and a 16-ounce ballpeen hammer to drive them out.
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Posted: 1/17/2006 5:22:39 PM EDT
[#6]
I forgot to say this. Of course, it only pertains to replacing the FSB with another. It's not a necessity if your just taking it off to see if you can (or in my case to change out the handguard cap) 
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Posted: 1/17/2006 6:36:19 PM EDT
[#7]
First off, thank you all for responding so quickly to my post (this is the first time I posted anything). Anyways....down to business......I purchased a new Bushmaster M4A3 while the ban was in effect, I am sloooowwwwwly building it up, and am not sure if I can remove the muzzle break (not a flash hider) it has flat sides where it appears removal may be achieved....I have wondered if it can be removed, however, I don't know that I have the cajones to do it......in the Bushmaster catalog it lists two muzzle breaks mine it says is removable but, I dunno.....also, any ideas on the BEST collapsible stock?
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Posted: 1/17/2006 8:00:29 PM EDT
[#8]
FSB removal: www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782
"Brake"
Postban muzzle brakes are not easily removable. They are blind pinned and welded over. See the link above for an example of a removal. If you arent really adventurous, buy a new barrel with the features you want, and recoup some of your costs by selling your barrel. Or, send your barrel to a gunsmith (I say buy new)
No such thing. It depends on what you want the stock to do, and what your budget allows. I like the VLTOR carbine stocks. Battery storage and a much better cheek weld. |
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Posted: 1/17/2006 8:04:06 PM EDT
[#9]
Uhh... sometimes it is easy. Sometimes it is an absolute mutha.
"Most pins are the same size on both ends" ???? Not in my experience. Thus far, RRA barrels I have seen use non-tapered pins. The MAJORITY of barrels I come across use tapered pins. |
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Posted: 1/17/2006 11:55:46 PM EDT
[#10]
LMT barrels built in the last couple years use straight dowel pins in the FSB as well. Don't know about before that as I was not an LMT dealer then... |
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Posted: 1/18/2006 4:34:14 AM EDT
[#11]
i wouldnt waste the effort for a railed gas block
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Posted: 1/18/2006 4:42:26 AM EDT
[#12]
You would?
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Posted: 1/18/2006 5:24:43 AM EDT
[#13]
edited 
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