Best Lower to Modify to A1 Specs?

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Best Lower to Modify to A1 Specs?

Posted: 12/17/2005 9:46:47 PM EDT

What is the best lower to modify to A1 specs?

I'm not a Kool Aid drinker, but I'm thinking Colt. They're spendy, however. KY Imports and Florida Gun Works list Colt lowers on their website and there's one on EE. Colt would give me the dancing pony and match my Colt M16A1 upper, but obviously the rollmark would not be completely authentic. On the other hand, if I'm going yo go to the trouble of modifying an A2 lower to A1 soecs (or at least as close as possible), then I might as well get as close as I can. Since I can't have a GM Hydramatic or Harrington & Richardson, Colt is as close as I can get...

Posted: 12/18/2005 3:36:14 AM EDT

[#1]

I do not have an opinion as to which lower to modify, but I will suggest you research suppliers before you order anything.

I would also check the EE here first, you might just find an A1 Lower.
(No, I am not selling anything)

Good Luck.

Posted: 12/18/2005 3:53:14 AM EDT

[#2]

I've got a 1999 mfg DPMS, and it's A1 config. Not for sale, but there are A1's out there.

Posted: 12/18/2005 3:55:27 AM EDT

[#3]

if i were to destroy a lower it might as well be a cheap one

Posted: 12/18/2005 7:19:15 AM EDT

[#4]

but there are A1's out there.

Very true, I have an older PWA lower that doesn't have the reinforced buffer area.

Posted: 12/18/2005 7:33:11 AM EDT

[#5]

Quoted:
I do not have an opinion as to which lower to modify, but I will suggest you research suppliers before you order anything.

I would also check the EE here first, you might just find an A1 Lower.
(No, I am not selling anything)

Good Luck.

I'm familiar with the various forgings and suppliers. If it were just about value for the money, I'd probably go CMT/Stag.

I'm also aware there are a few old lowers out there built to (or close to) A1 specs, but they are few and far between (not to mention expen$ive).

At least a few members have successfully modified A2 lowers to A1 specs (at least close enough for my purposes). I understand it is difficult and/or at least time consuming.

Finally, if I want to "destroy" a receiver, that's my business. My money, my receiver, my time. I don't need anyone giving me a bag of shit about it.

Posted: 12/18/2005 9:33:10 AM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:
Quoted:
I do not have an opinion as to which lower to modify, but I will suggest you research suppliers before you order anything.

I would also check the EE here first, you might just find an A1 Lower.
(No, I am not selling anything)

Good Luck.

I'm familiar with the various forgings and suppliers. If it were just about value for the money, I'd probably go CMT/Stag.

I'm also aware there are a few old lowers out there built to (or close to) A1 specs, but they are few and far between (not to mention expen$ive).

At least a few members have successfully modified A2 lowers to A1 specs (at least close enough for my purposes). I understand it is difficult and/or at least time consuming.

Finally, if I want to "destroy" a receiver, that's my business. My money, my receiver, my time. I don't need anyone giving me a bag of shit about it.

not giving you any bag of shit, just advising that if i were to attempt it i would try on a cheap lower.

but if you plan on jumping on whoever that replies to your thread then fine.

Posted: 12/18/2005 11:11:38 AM EDT

[#7]

Quoted:

not giving you any bag of shit, just advising that if i were to attempt it i would try on a cheap lower.

but if you plan on jumping on whoever that replies to your thread then fine.

My appologies. I misunderstood you. It would probably be prudent to try it on a 90 or 100 dollar lower, first.

Posted: 12/18/2005 1:07:31 PM EDT

[#8]

Quoted:
Quoted:

not giving you any bag of shit, just advising that if i were to attempt it i would try on a cheap lower.

but if you plan on jumping on whoever that replies to your thread then fine.

My appologies. I misunderstood you. It would probably be prudent to try it on a 90 or 100 dollar lower, first.

I've done two of them; a Rock River, and a DPMS, and the RR piece was much more pleasant to work on. Much less filing and messing around needed to get to where you want to be. The DPMS piece was full of forge remnents, and off spec angles and cuts. The only reason I bought it was that the upper it's going under is at max for side to side dimensions, and the DPMS piece was the only lower I could find that matched the width.

Stongly recommend any of the Conti built lowers; Rock River, Stag, or Century, over DPMS. or even Bushie; both of which leave a lot of forging crap on the front wall.

Posted: 12/18/2005 2:34:37 PM EDT

[#9]

Essayons,

I didn't take it as anyone giving you grief, yet, but don't worry, someone will come along and act stupid before long.

Are you going to fill the logo side in as well when you file off the reinforcement areas?

Posted: 12/18/2005 2:49:38 PM EDT

[#10]

Quoted:
Essayons,

I didn't take it as anyone giving you grief, yet, but don't worry, someone will come along and act stupid before long.

Are you going to fill the logo side in as well when you file off the reinforcement areas?

I shouldn't have, either. I've seen enough of eklikwhoa's posts that I shouldn't have read it that way. I guess I got up on the wrong side of the bed.

I might fill in part of the logo, depending on which lower I start with. An RRA "US Property" lower with the big logo at the top filled in might be nice. IIRC there is some minimum information you have to leave on the receiver - manufacturer, city state and serial no?

Quoted:
I've done two of them; a Rock River, and a DPMS, and the RR piece was much more pleasant to work on. Much less filing and messing around needed to get to where you want to be. The DPMS piece was full of forge remnents, and off spec angles and cuts. The only reason I bought it was that the upper it's going under is at max for side to side dimensions, and the DPMS piece was the only lower I could find that matched the width.

Stongly recommend any of the Conti built lowers; Rock River, Stag, or Century, over DPMS. or even Bushie; both of which leave a lot of forging crap on the front wall.

Thanks shamayim - exactly the kind of info I am looking for.

Posted: 12/18/2005 3:22:48 PM EDT

[#11]

Quoted:
Florida Gun Works

Eek, you said Florida Gun Works. Stay as far away from them as you possibly can, unless you don't mind bait and switch routines and customer non-service.

Posted: 12/18/2005 3:53:59 PM EDT

[#12]

Quoted:
Quoted:
Florida Gun Works

Eek, you said Florida Gun Works. Stay as far away from them as you possibly can, unless you don't mind bait and switch routines and customer non-service.

Thanks.

Don't worry, I've heard about them before. I was just citing them as an example. What abouty www.kyimports.com? I haven't heard much good or bad about them.

Posted: 12/19/2005 7:22:02 PM EDT

[#13]

Has anyone done these mods yet with any success? I mean home built guys, not jobbers. I'd like to see someone's work on this.

Brick

Posted: 12/20/2005 2:50:39 AM EDT

[#14]

Quoted:
Quoted:
Florida Gun Works

Eek, you said Florida Gun Works. Stay as far away from them as you possibly can, unless you don't mind bait and switch routines and customer non-service.

That's all I meant by my post...... to watch out who you buy from. No matter what you want to do with the lower, I would like to see you get it and not get ripped off.
I just thought I was being helpful, I did not know if you were aware of FGW's reputation or not.

I personally do not have an opinion as to whether you should do this or not.
I certainly did not mean to give you grief.

and, as I said in my first response... good luck (in your quest).

Posted: 12/20/2005 7:29:15 AM EDT

[#15]

Brick, shamayim has done two of them and I'm pretty sure others have as well.

wshbrngr, no worries. I know you weren't giving me any grief. Thanks for posting.

Posted: 12/20/2005 8:12:50 AM EDT

[#16]

Did he post any pics or describe his processes?

Thanks much,

Brick

Posted: 12/20/2005 10:39:57 AM EDT

[#17]

shamayim IMed me some info. He worked from A1 photos and his SP1 (rear part of the receiver) and used files to remove material slowly and carefully. Sounds like a time-consuming custom job:

"The only tools I've used are files; in various sizes from 8 inch mill for removing most of the band around the rear ring, to the smallest needle files for getting the small areas around the hump for the rear takedown plunger/spring. Used pics for the side of the early type stock, to get the tunnel trimmed, but have had a Colt SP1 for 25+ years, and used it as a model for the rear ring area and front wall.

Once all the shaping and filing was done, filled the SAFE/FIRE markings on the right side w/ J-B Weld, smoothed out the worked on areas w/ 240 wet/dry paper and sprayed."

I may wait a little longer before I try this. I just got a response from Colt-653 about the A1 lowers he was having made. He said he would be posting an update soon.

Posted: 12/20/2005 9:04:06 PM EDT

[#18]

Thanks for the info. I don't know how he would do the tight corners. Is there a link to the a-1 thread or tell me which forum to try and search.

Thanks,

Brick

Posted: 12/20/2005 9:23:03 PM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:
Thanks for the info. I don't know how he would do the tight corners. Is there a link to the a-1 thread or tell me which forum to try and search.

Thanks,

Brick

I hear you - a "how to" thread on converting A2-style lowers to A1 specs would be great. Here's a thread that might be useful www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=261161

Here is the update thread on Colt-653's A1-style lowers. www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=33&t=148750

Here is the original (locked) thread www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=21&t=264233

Posted: 12/21/2005 11:05:21 AM EDT

[#20]

If the Colt-653 deal doesn't pan out by my birthday (April), I'm going to buy a Stag/CMT lower. I'll fill the Stag head and the right-side fire-control markings before I refinish the lower after making the mods. www.chameleonweaponry.com/dr-arf/RM_STAG_ARMS_STAG15_2.jpg Stags are also reasonably priced and shamayim reccomends CMT made lowers as a starting point.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Best Lower to Modify to A1 Specs?

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