Did a stupid thing last night.  Mananged to strip out an allen-head screw, well actuallym two of three allen-head screws,

1.  something about the wrong loc-tite,
2.  too much force applied to an allen wrench and
3.  the allen wrench twisting around itself before wallowing the allen head out.

I would be lying if I didn't see this happening!


Anyway, anyone have a bright idea about how to get the damned screw out?

what's it on/in?

They make drill bits that counterdrill into stripped screws and then pull them out. Check your hardware store.

It is on an railed forearm.

I'll check into the drill bit thing.

there called ez outs and you have to drill a hole in the screw first. then use it ez out to remove the broken screw. you ues the ez out just like a drill bit. you can get them at sears or a good hardware store might try an auto parts store to. hope this helps.

Yep, +1 on the EZ out. They are not the simplest thing to use, but about all you can do short
of drilling the screw out and re-tapping the hole slightly larger and starting over.

If you have a Dremel and the right bit (And enough access to the screw) you can cut a large slot for a straight slot screwdriver into the top of it. I've pulled out many a screw gone bad with that method.

Before you use an EZ-out
I used 3 different types while working on aircraft.
2 are great and one is not recomended. If I can find links I'll show you the best.

Cheers

Taffy

All those are good suggestions but the real problem is the loctite

Apply heat and try to shove the next size opposite size(metric or inch) wrench that will fit.

To get the heat on the screw and not on you forend take that Allen wrench you screwed up and stick it back in the stripped out screw.  Apply heat to the Allen wrench and let it transfer the heat to the screw and you will cook off the Lock-tite, well, not cook it off really but you will break the bond without overheating your forend.

You might also find a METRIC allen wrench that will cram in there.

+1 on the EZout.

There is one type that is square and tapered, you hammer it in, the use a wrench to turn it out.  This type is more often used for removing the nipples broken off hydraulic fittings.

Another has a left hand twist, sort of a drill bit looking thing, with a taper.

The Black and Decker EZ Out didn't work.

try soaking the hell out of it with something like pb blaster that stuff might eat the loc tight. but you will have to let it soak a while. then drill the screw again and give the ezout another try. if all else fails drill the whole screw out with a bit that is just h hair smaller than the screw and then run a tap through the hole that might cut out the remaining threads.

Quoted: The Black and Decker EZ Out didn't work.

This isn't goanna help you but just a comment.  I've found in the past that EZ and out are 2 words that never should have been put together.
Hope some of the suggestions others made will work

I stripped out a screw on an Ace Ltd M4 SOCOM. Per the advice the of some other members I Dremeled a slot into it to be able ot use a flathead screwdriver to remove it. Well, the screw metal was too soft and the slot I Dremeled stripped out as well.

So I just broke out the DeWalt, popped in a thin drill bit and drilled that bastard through. Once it got so far it caught or something and unscrewed out.

Got love cheap ass screws...

Quoted: To get the heat on the screw and not on you forend take that Allen wrench you screwed up and stick it back in the stripped out screw.  Apply heat to the Allen wrench and let it transfer the heat to the screw and you will cook off the Lock-tite, well, not cook it off really but you will break the bond without overheating your forend.

To add: When you loctite bond breaks, you going to smell a sweet smell.  Once the bond has broken, then you can use a tool to spin the stripped allen screw back out.

As far as a coule of different types of EZ-outs go.....

They all dig in further as you try to remove the screw.   If you just stripped out the allen hex, you should be able to get an extractor in there and try it without drilling.

May I suggest that you DON'T get the generic extractors that are sold by like Sears and such.  These models are approx 3" long and there are usually 4-5 in a set.  The problem with them is they are very tapered and long.   To get to the size that you need, it might be in the middle of the shaft.  That would mean that you have to have a hole behind it long enough to get it to fit in proper.
HANSON tools makes a nicer set.  Each extractor is only about 1/4 to 3/8 inches long with a hex on the back side to fit a socket and rachet on.  Each size hole has a specific bit to fit it.

I'm looking at a set in my tool box right now.  it's a Hanson screw extractor set.  1/8 - 7/8   25 piece set.  Hanson may also go by Irwin  or Irwin Hanson.    The part number of my kit is a 53227.  I would think you might be able to get a supplier in your area to get you one bit only.  I know they are covered under warranty and they can be purchased one at a time if needed.  They have smaller sets as well.  I wish I were closer and could help you out.  I get to deal with FUBAR'd stuff on a daily basis.  I know I could get it out for you.  

I am investingating another possible solution:  Take it to Ed Vandenburg's place and let him fix my problem.  

I spoke with him today and you could hear him laughing when I told him I had loc-tited the f'ing screw.  Then the Oh, that sounds bad, which in my profession means more $$$

Anyway, we had a discussion about loc-tite and bolts, accelerants and he suggested I not use that particular type of loc-tite in teh future for this kind of application.  Yeppers, I got the message.

I may see about getting a set of hte hanson extractors for the future.

Somtimes you can get lucky using TORX bit tapped into the hex area of the screw then use socket or wrench to loosen with  back and forth motion until it can be removed without further damage.
Cheap non tapered screw extractor and easier to find, many sizes or see your Snap-on man.
It will need to be a snug fit and gently hammered in, you will need heat to break the bond on the Loctite.YMMV Good Luck!

 Are they allen socket set screws, flat heads, cap screws?  There's a way for each one, I usually have to remove 150-200 broken/stripped screws, bolt and broken pipe nipples a year.

 Hanson does make a very very good product.  www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=5435284&PMT4NO=546550 to see what one looks like.  It grips the outside, works best for cap screws/bolts.

I only use these to remove broken pipe nipples and set screws that I can completely drill through. www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1737850&PMT4NO=546550

 You'll have to drill through the fastener with these.  www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1737879&PMT4NO=546550

 These never work worth a flip for me.  www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1737893&PMT4NO=546550

I've had mixed luck with these.  www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1738635&PMT4NO=546550  and www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=2202595&PMT4NO=546550


 You should leave Houston and move to Dallas....then I could help you more.

mm

If all you can find are the spiral fluted EZ-outs and they dont quite fit you can always cut one that
is too small at the tip.
You may have to trim it a couple of times to get it to the right size to work.
If you have to tap it in a little you've got the right size.
Keep in mind that either style of EZ-out may deform  the screw you are using slightly and may
in turn damage the female threads it is threaded into.

Another method that has worked for me is to trim the allen wrench back so that you have an undamaged
section exposed then braze/solder/JB weld/epoxy the wrench into the allen screw.
Once set, just turn it out.

I didn't see it mentioned here... so I thought that I would add that I never use a drill with an "EZ-Out", too easy to break off the bit in the hole.  This is just another problem I would like to avoid. +1 on the Hansons, they have performed well for me in past.

If all else fails, and the screw is FUBAR anyway, drill the screw out completely, fill, drill, and tap for a new one.

Good luck and don't worry, we have all been there.

head.gif

Ya know, sometimes you have to know when to grab it by the throat and squeeze,

and sometimes you have to know when to punt!

I dropped it off at Vandenburg's shop and in part of our discussion he started talking about how the more expensive a lesson is the better you will remember it and I started worrying about his drill press  and die set, etc. . . . .

Ed Promised me it wouldn't be too expensive.  

If you can find them, try a left handed drill bit (seriously, they make them). it might screw out as you're drilling.