The title about says it all. I want a good single stage trigger. I know the McCormick trigger is easy to install, but those anti-walk pins are dead ugly.  I like the idea of the Accuracy Speaks model, with no adjustment screws. How easy is each to install? I am moderately handy, but I am not a gunsmith and stoning the engagement surfaces of a FCG makes me nervous, if only because I'm a cheap screw and don't want to wreck a $140 trigger. If you have other ideas, please speak up.

The gun is a Bushmaster M4orgery.

I installed the JP single stage and love it. The trigger comes with good instrucions and if you follow them to the letter you should be fine. Also when I bought mine (2002?) the instructions said if you go to far with the stoning  they will sell you a new disconnector for $12.95  postage included.

It took me over 2hrs. to get the trigger just the way I wanted it. You install it, check it, stone it, reinstall, and on and on till you get the disconnector the way you want.

I did have a problem, but not with the trigger itself. When a friend shot the rifle it would double on him. It never did it on me even after a hundred rounds through it, I'm assuming he wasn't following through on the trigger and during recoil the trigger would reset and fire again. I replaced the disconnect with a little less stoning and all is fine.

Thanks. Anyone else?

)The JP single stage is very easy to install and set correctly.  Spend a little more time reading the instruction and try to understand what JP is saying first.  The first unit took me almost 45 minutes to get everything correctly adjusted.  The second unit took quite a bit less.  The disconnector filing job is only required when you really wnat to fine tune the trigger.  If you happen to over filed the disconnector, your original one would work as a replacement.  Go slow with a jeweler file, not a big honking std file (I learned my lesson well

Quoted: The title about says it all. I want a good single stage trigger. I know the McCormick trigger is easy to install, but those anti-walk pins are dead ugly.

see details/info and my pics of the std "E clips", on 2nd page of
ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=12&t=207316

hope that helps some.

rgds,
ar-jedi

edit: here is the direct link to page 2, pics are 1/3 of the way down...
ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=12&t=207316&page=2

bump to the topic, would like info/description  from someone who has installed the accuracy speaks trigger,. Specifically, when it says some fitting/gunsmithing required, are you filing sear /trigger surfaces or just the outside of the group to get it into the lower? I am worried about filing the contact surfaces myself - also, it says the trigger pull on th eAS is adjustable, how is the pull weight adjustment made? I also noticesdguns is selling the AS trigger, listing it as "drop in competition trigger with no gunsmithing required " -  A bit misleading -

I recently installed the JP trigger in my bull barrel AR, I took my time to do it right and it took about 2-3 hours.  It comes with good instructions and a video showing the installation and adjustment, between the 2 you have a really good reference for installation.  I am very impressed with the new trigger, it works great!

Take your time and follow the instructions.  I put mine in at least 6-7 years ago,  Still  works, and well that's it.  It works like intended.   No problems.

I installed one with HK940s help and it was easy.

RUKE 1:  View the instruction CD b/f installing the trigger.  Its well thought out and leads you through the steps.

(Edited to add)  For the JP:

Installation is similar to installing standard hammer, trigger, disconnector, and selector.  But you must adjust the setscrews as per instructions.  Then you fit the trigger to selector.  This may take several disassembly/assembly steps.  This involves just a little dremel work on the upper edge of the rear of the trigger, no big deal.

While it is not done in 10 minutes, most of the time involved will be reading the instruction, adjusting, etc, which is not hard, just you want to make sure you are doing it as per instructions, that you understands what the adjustments do.

While you are "test firing" the lower, do not allow the hammer to strike the front of the trigger well.  I use a strip of rubber (cut from the top of an old rubber boot) in front of the hammer to absorb the blow.

Overtravel adjustment is no big deal.  This is the front screw.  When you pull the trigger, the hammer either falls or it doesn't.  There is no safety issue involved.  You adjust it until the trigger will fall, and no more.  

The sear engagement adjustment IS a big deal.  This is the rear screw.  This screw is turned clockwise until the hammer falls, then it is backed up a specific amount as recommended on the instructions.  Backing off a little more, increasing sear engagement, certainly won't hurt as far as safety is concerned, but naturally means more creep.  

This is not a trigger for casual plinking or range use.  This is for bench and varmint shooting.  The shooter needs to be made well aware of this.

Can you be clearer in your replys if you are referrring to the jp or accuracy speaks system, I am having a hard time sorting out what applies to each.. Thanks!

Sorry, my post was for the JP.