I can't really think of any other jigs out there at the moment...
Personally, I'd reccomend that you buy the CNC model directly from Justin (the creator) at
www.cncgunsmithing.com/tooling.htmlIt is only $99 shipped. He's one of the good guys.
I think the CNC model is the most economical and efficient design out there right now. Just keep in mind that the 80% receiver you use with it MUST have the top plane already machined to proper dimensions. Almost all the forgings out there do anyway, so it's not a concern unless you're doing one of them castings, that still need the top plane machined.
The only thing the CNC ain't got that some of the others do, is the backplate used to help in reaming and tapping the buffer tube hole. No biggie. I just stood my CNC jig and receiver up vertically in my drill press vice, and used a 1" drill bit chucked in my press and pressed into the buffer hole, to center the jig, then swapped that out with the 1 1/8" reamer bit to ream the hole out. This is a scary process. That 1 1/8" bit, trying to ream out the 1" hole is going to chatter like MAD, and start to bind up once you near the bottom of the buffer tower. Go VERY slow. Pray often. Check for straightness even more often. Things seem to straighten up and calm down once you get about a third of the way down.
Use the same set-up for tapping that hole. Chuck a center punch, or a philips head bit in that press, and lower it down onto the dimple in the back of the tap. Have a buddy apply pressure to the press, while you use a wrench to turn the tap by hand. 1 full turn- then back it up a quarter turn. Repeat until tapped all the way through. Tapping is a piece of cake with this method. The monster tap chewed through the aluminum like it was butter.
I finished my first 80% with nothing more than the correct bits, a 12" drill press, a vice, a dremel with sanding drums, and the CNC jig. Turned out perfectly, and has zero upper to lower slop. Don't even think of trying this without a drill press though. You need one that has at least a 12" clearnace from spindle to table, for the reaming/tapping procedure.
If you still need all the drill bits and taps, I reccomend you order from Enco.
Enco Check out my invoice below. That's ALL the bits and taps you need, with the order numbers, plus a few extras in case you break or dull one, for under $60. I seen the monster tap ALONE go for $60 elsewhere. You probably can't beat this price, considering these are mostly top tier quality, made in the USA cobalt bits.
300-2308 1/8 COBALT JOBBERS DRILLS 1 $1.01 $1.01 (trigger guard)
300-2310 5/32 COBALT JOBBERS DRILLS 2 $1.04 $2.08 (fire control holes)
300-2314 7/32 COBALT JOBBERS DRILLS 1 $1.61 $1.61 (pistol grip hole)
300-2316 1/4 (E) COBALT JOBBERS DRILLS 1 $1.81 $1.81 (take down holes, buffer stop)
300-2324 3/8 COBALT JOBBERS DRILLS 1 $4.49 $4.49 (selector)
301-1072 1 1/8 HS SILVER & DEMING DRILLS 1 $12.29 $12.29 (buffer tube hole)
311-6013 TAPER RT HAND,4FLUTE 1/4-28 CARBN STEL HND TAP 1 $.95 $.95 (grip tap)
313-0531 1 3/16 X 16 PLUG H.S.SPEC.GROUND THR.TAP 1 $29.35 $29.35 (buffer tube tap)
240-6520 3/32 118 DEG BLACK TRIUMPH HSS JOBBER DRILL 2 $.67 $1.34 (misc. detents)
891-6750 3/32 COBALT USA 6IN AIRCRAFT EXT.DR. 2 $2.08 $4.16 (bolt release)
Sub Total $59.09
Shipping $.00
Tax $.00
P/S Total $59.76
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*PS, you'll also need a 3/8" and a 1/2" endmill for the flat bottomed stock index hole, and to clean up the rear take down hole face. I already had a cheapo Harbor Freight endmill set, so I didn't bother ordering more.