80% build complete <pics>

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - 80% build complete <pics>

Posted: 9/22/2004 5:32:39 PM EDT

i don't post much, mostly lurk. but, for your viewing pleasure.....
(if the pics don't work, be patient, i'm board code illiterate)

before finishing

http://photos.imageevent.com/hopimpin/personal/websize/Picture%20003.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/hopimpin/personal/websize/Picture%20005.jpg

after finishing and assembly

http://photos.imageevent.com/hopimpin/personal/websize/Picture%20042.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/hopimpin/personal/websize/Picture%20043.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/hopimpin/personal/websize/Picture%20044.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/hopimpin/personal/websize/Picture%20045.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/hopimpin/personal/websize/Picture%20046.jpg

in all, very enjoyable. came out better than i could have ever hoped. will try to get it to the range this weekend to see how it shoots.

John

Posted: 9/22/2004 5:34:05 PM EDT

[#1]

Is that a Fobus grip? It looks just like one, I have the same one if so. I love it.

The reciever is a good color.

Very impressive.

Posted: 9/22/2004 5:35:53 PM EDT

[#2]

thank you. its a first samco g27. the finish is norrells (spelling?) moly resin. the grey black/flat. very good stuff.

<edit> its a first samco grip. not sure if first samco and fobus are the same company.

Posted: 9/22/2004 5:36:15 PM EDT

[#3]

very nice! what kind of finish did you use?

Posted: 9/22/2004 5:40:49 PM EDT

[#4]

after all the metal work was done, i used some scotchbrite on a die grinder to smooth the edges and surface, bead blasted, then treated it with alumaprep33 and alodine 1200. thats the gold color in the top pics. then i liberally applied norrells moly resin, and an hour in the oven at 300 degrees. moly resin is some good stuff, very durable from what i have experienced.

<edit> www.molyresin.com/ i used the flat grey black.

Posted: 9/22/2004 5:42:40 PM EDT

[#5]

I have been wanting to do an 80% reciever for a while, Where did you get yours? I'd like the web site or phone #.
Thanks.

Posted: 9/22/2004 5:53:48 PM EDT

[#6]

i got mine off of ebay before they changed the rules. don't remember from where. but there are several dealers of 80% products on the net. depends on how much you want to spend, and quality IS directly proportional to cost. you can buy a quality finished lower for less than what you would spend on an 80% plus tooling. but i did it for fun, not cost savings. a couple dealers from the top of my head are

www.tanneryshop.com william is a good guy, he'll take care of you

shadetreearmory? not sure if their site is up or not, but they do sell on the auction sites last i checked

ar15tools.com has tools and receivers, but damn expensive. i can't justify paying 270$ for an 80% receiver when i can get a finished one for 100$. but if thats your thing...

there are no shortages of dealers out there, just look around.

John

<edit> this is where i got mine byogun.com/80percent.htm

Posted: 9/22/2004 7:56:02 PM EDT

[#7]

Jteal works on Aircraft!! you should allways use alumaprep33 and alodine 1200 on bare recievers!!!

Posted: 9/22/2004 8:21:56 PM EDT

[#8]

yeah...at 160 bucks...expensive hehe.. but curiosity would make me by one too, ehhe
allways wanted to make an ar without a black finish,hehe

Posted: 9/22/2004 9:56:57 PM EDT

[#9]

jteal,

Thanks for sharing!!

Could you please also share what kind of equipment you used for your work? This has been something I've been wanting to get into as a logical "next step" if building these things, so I've been doing some reading lately.

Currently, I would be starting from scratch tooling wise. I don't have, or have immediate access to, milling machines; though I wouldn't mind an excuse to get a good drill press at least.

Did you purchase any jigs or do it all off prints?

Are they forged or cast?

Thanks!
rvb

Posted: 9/23/2004 12:22:37 AM EDT

[#10]

Quoted:
yeah...at 160 bucks...expensive hehe.. but curiosity would make me by one too, ehhe
allways wanted to make an ar without a black finish,hehe

160 bux is too much and a rip off. There are other superior 80% receivers from National Ord, CNC Gunsmithing, shadetree and etc for much cheaper.

Posted: 9/23/2004 4:54:22 AM EDT

[#11]

Did you anodize the receiver at all?

Posted: 9/23/2004 5:22:03 AM EDT

[#12]

Nice job. You should have left it that gold finish for some "bling, bling" effect.

Posted: 9/23/2004 7:56:51 AM EDT

[#13]

jteal,

Very nice job. Give us an update after you get to the range.

CDK

Posted: 9/23/2004 2:38:32 PM EDT

[#14]

A real beauty!!...Nice work jteal!

Posted: 9/23/2004 3:45:13 PM EDT

[#15]

true, it is a bit pricey, but i wanted a forged receiver that the top deck was already cut to height. somewhat limited my options. i couldn't justify the cost of the tooling to mill the top deck. i have everything else i needed already (aircraft sheetmetal mechanic). just depends on what you want. the cast are cheaper, but they are....well....cheaper. if you want forged, you are going to pay for it. i did it for a fun, long term project.

as far as tooling goes, a jig is handy, but not absolutely required. i did use a jig, but could have just as easy done it off the drawing. i mainly used the jig to hold the thing in the milling machine. you're going to need a way to ream and tap the buffer. a good set of fractional drill bits, up to 3/8. the rest is dependent upon which lower you decide to go with. i saw one that all the milling was done, just needed to drill and tap. (oh, you're going to need a 1/4-28 tap also). a drill press is also handy, but not absolutely required. i've read some here that people do it with a hand drill. the one i did needed the fire control well milled to size. if you don't have a mill, don't get that one. do a search, there are plenty around and i'm sure you'll find one that you like.

John

Posted: 9/23/2004 4:32:39 PM EDT

[#16]

Excellent work! IM really happy I saw this thread after going to that moly resin site. Ive been debaiting for awhile what kind of paint to use on a build. Now I know.

What is alumaprep33 and alodine 1200 and why did you use it? How did you apply the moly resin? IS it as tough as they seem to say it is?

Thanks in advance.

ETA: I see they recommend using an airbrush.

Posted: 9/23/2004 4:59:30 PM EDT

[#17]

alumiprep 33 is phosphoric acid, it is used to clean/degrease aluminum parts. alodine 1200 is a mixture of a lot of crap, but mainly chromic acid and a gold dye. you can also get alodine 1100 which is clear (no dye). it is used as a corrosion preventative. on an ar receiver, its not required, but i used it because it was available and i couldn't hurt.

i applied the moly resin with an airbrush kit i got from harbor freight tools. i got it on sale for 10 bucks. just followed the included instructions. YES! it is as tough as they say. wouldn't say it is as tough as anodizing, but a world better than paint. i can't say enough good things about moly resin.

John

Posted: 9/23/2004 5:11:21 PM EDT

[#18]

Cool. Ive got an older pashe air brush that should work great. As far as cleaning would go, do you think laquer thinner would be better than soap and water? How much of it did you use on your lower?

Ive about a couple complete firearms Id like to do. Might need two quarts.

Posted: 9/23/2004 5:17:18 PM EDT

[#19]

i didn't use soap and water, i went down to the local autozone and picked up a can of gumout carb cleaner. any carb cleaner that has MEK will do. but the key is you have to get all the oil/grease off. preparation is 90% of the work. but to answer your question, yes, i think lacquer thinner would work fine.

John

Posted: 9/23/2004 5:46:27 PM EDT

[#20]

THe best part of that whole gun is the LEFT SIDE , nice and clean, no writing . lol. good job.

Posted: 9/23/2004 6:11:00 PM EDT

[#21]

i didn't use soap and water, i went down to the local autozone and picked up a can of gumout carb cleaner. any carb cleaner that has MEK will do.

Any reason not to just use straight MEK (or perhaps acetone)? I have a supply of MEK I use to clean aluminum parts (aircraft sheet metal stuff - RV6) prior to priming.

Posted: 9/23/2004 6:42:43 PM EDT

[#22]

really no reason not to use straight MEK, or any other solvent. i went the carb cleaner route for the high pressure blasting action. didn't want to spend all day with a rag.

John

Posted: 9/24/2004 7:04:58 AM EDT

[#23]

Very nice looking! Great job!

Posted: 9/24/2004 10:15:58 AM EDT

[#24]

I guess I will tru the Moly Resin Stuff also. My wife is going to love me. You should see what she said when I rite dyed my HK's on the stove in a bucket.

Posted: 9/24/2004 4:29:37 PM EDT

[#25]

you can visit www.tanneryshop.com/ for your 80% lowers and uppers to build your own

Posted: 9/24/2004 5:44:40 PM EDT

[#26]

Here's another place to get everything you need. Based on the directions, all you need is a drill press.

www.hicapmagparts.com/

Posted: 9/25/2004 4:08:38 PM EDT

[#27]

And I'd like to point out www.footpounds.com has a very extensive collection of 80% links, including sources for the 80% receivers, drills, jigs, you name it.

Posted: 9/27/2004 10:12:42 PM EDT

[#28]

jteal,
I noticed that the trigger guard area, webbing and front of the mag well lip had all been smoothed. How did you remove the forging seams? Would you describe the process? You did a great job.

Thanks,
MM.