My friend wants to thread his barrel.  He currently has one of those extra noisey Y comps from bushmonster.   Can anyone tell me if the barrel is threaded under the comp, or is it just pinned on?

TIA

tmix

If it is a 14.5 barrel then it is threaded on and then pinned. All you need to do is cut two groves in it on on the top and one on the bottom. Cut it almost down to the threads and take a chisel and hamer and it should come off in two parts atleast my 2 did

Js15

grind the od till you find the pins, one at 3, and one at 9 oclock

grind them out, unscrew the brake, 10 minute job, really

What if its a 16" barrel?
I can't remember for sure.

Then I believe it is just slipped on and has one pin through the bottom

Js15

If the barrel measures about 16" with the Mini-Y-Comp. it is a 14.5" barrel.  If, on the other hand. it measures about 17.5" long with the Mini-Y-Comp, it is a 16" barrel.

I have the same scenario bushy M4 post ban, with the mini y comp. Mine measures 16" with the comp. My understanding is that I can put a preban A2, or anything else for that matter on the end of the barrel and not worry about the length, correct??

P.S. WooHoo! First post!

if your barrel has a mini y comp and measures 16 inches or so then you have a 14.5 inch barrel, it is threaded and pinned, the pins are welded over, you need to grind on the y comp till you find the 2 pins, then use a dremel, or die grinder to cut the pins till you are just at the threads, this is easy

the brake will be heated fom the grinder and expanded to the point where it comes right off with some pliers or the like, then you must use a phantom, or a vortex flash hider to make sure the barrel has the correct overall length

the flash hider must be permanently installed to be considered part of the barrel, you can do this three ways

setscrew and weld over

pin and weld over

silver solder

Quoted: grind the od till you find the pins, one at 3, and one at 9 oclock grind them out, unscrew the brake, 10 minute job, really

I ended up trying this first, and somehow managed to loose the pins (couldn't see them) in the grind. I ended up having to split the brake (like the pic below shows). I had to chop the forward portion of it off, because I wanted a better idea how deep I was going with the dremel. Try the grinding first, if it works it'll save you a huge amount of time rather then trying to carefully split the brake.
Heres a pic of what one halve of mine looked like. You can see the darks spots in the metal, where it wasn't cut through by the dremel.

Thanks for the replies! I'll let you know how it works out. *crosses fingers*

I recently removed my y-comp, and the splitting didn't work out so well for me.  Soak the barrel in Kroil or similar penetrating oil overnight, that is of course after you remove the pins with the Dremel technique.  Get a good vise or a chuck and apply a ton of torque on the brake with a 1/2" combination wrench, or you can do it the ghetto way (the way i did it hold

I cut two lines at 3 and 9 o'clock up to the flat spots. It split easy with a chisel. I just silver soldered a new brake. Looks great.

I finally got around to taking mine off yesterday. It went pretty smooth. I used a dremel to grind down at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. The pins fell out and threw a vise grip on the brake and turned it off w/o a problem.

You might as well go out and shoot the hell out of your gun before starting this procedure because you are going to have metal ALL over your upper, under the handguards, sight bases, everywhere so expect to spend a good amount of time cleaning.

Now i just need to get a phantom :)