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Posted: 7/21/2004 9:19:52 PM EDT
[#1]
YES you do need it!
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Posted: 7/22/2004 5:21:42 AM EDT
[#2]
Why do you need it? What purpose does it serve? Not saying that you don't need it because I don't know if you do or not. I have read that you need it and then I have read that you do not need it. I have read to use locktite then I have read that if you use locktite you are going to hell.
Someone please give the real story. I didn't used any grease and I put locktite on the castle nut. Why purpose does the grease serve? Thanks, James |
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Posted: 7/22/2004 6:10:12 AM EDT
[#3]
It's to keep the threads from seizing should you ever need to remove or replace the receiver extension. Also makes the initial installation easier.
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Posted: 7/22/2004 6:20:44 AM EDT
[#4]
The barrel extension is steel, the upper receiver aluminum. They can react with one another and seize up. I use anti-seize, the silver stuff sold at automotive stores.
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Posted: 7/22/2004 7:24:02 AM EDT
[#5]
Cool! I will pick some up and reinstall my receiver extention. It makes the install easier? Didn't think it could get much easier
 James |
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Posted: 7/22/2004 9:28:51 AM EDT
[#6]
Hey Cannibal! Is the anti-seize you're using Permatex? The silver does have graphite in it which isn't a good thing for an aluminum/steel connection... I've been using the Permatex Copper anti-seize I picked up at the NAPA store. No graphite and takes high heat... |
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Posted: 7/22/2004 10:43:53 AM EDT
[#7]
I'm not very strong.LOL, I guess that did sound funny. I just meant sometimes the new anodizing will be a little rough, or tolerance stackup can cause a tight fit, and the grease makes the initial threading in easier. |
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Posted: 7/22/2004 11:20:18 AM EDT
[#8]
I've also read that you need to use Moly when putting these parts together, and it makes sense to me.
But...I recently picked up Walt Kuleck & Clint McKee's book on assembleing AR15's (Fulton Armory) and he says you should use LOCTITE! WTF?[/ 
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Posted: 7/22/2004 11:42:43 AM EDT
[#9]
Can you use just regular automotive antisieze? Is Anti-seize able to standup to the temperatures created? It is only good up to 1600 degrees. I think moly can take much higher temperatures.
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Posted: 7/22/2004 12:00:13 PM EDT
[#10]
Auto anti-seize would be OK, as long as there's no graphite as DarkStar pointed out. I get that stuff all over everything when I use it though, I stick to moly grease.
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Posted: 7/22/2004 12:01:52 PM EDT
[#11]
Hmmm... not sure of the brand name, but its the silver stuff that gets all over the place quite easily. I've heard arguments against graphite, but some guys have been using it for years without issue. Considering all the automotive applications, I'm not real worried about it. |
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Posted: 7/22/2004 2:01:27 PM EDT
[#12]
Where can you get moly grease?
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Posted: 7/22/2004 2:14:39 PM EDT
[#13]
As posted in the many "Moly Grease" threads : HONDA service dept, a small packet comes in the brake pad kits... Ask a tech if he has an extra packet you can have. I have some I'll trade for a bottle of Pepsi. |
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Posted: 7/23/2004 11:04:43 PM EDT
[#14]
Or you can buy a small jar of it from Bushmaster, but it's way more than you need for a lifetime.
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Posted: 7/31/2004 4:03:25 PM EDT
[#15]
OK, I went to a local auto parts store today and picked up a small can of Coastal "Industrial Moly EP Grease". It is Lithium based and does not say "graphite" on it anywhere. I figured for $2 I had little to lose.
Is this stuff OK or should I get something else? |
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Posted: 7/31/2004 4:57:37 PM EDT
[#16]
EXTENSION TUBE or BARREL NUT?
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Posted: 7/31/2004 5:05:56 PM EDT
[#17]
Extension tube.
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Posted: 8/1/2004 7:06:11 AM EDT
[#18]
Uhoh. Let's say I have a "friend" who just put moly grease that seems to have graphite (it's a black moly grease" on the threads of his extension tube. Just how bad would this be and what problems may I expect? Is it more of a "you really shouldn't do this" thing, or a "My GOD man, the horror of what you've just done! Get it offf now!" thing?
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Posted: 8/1/2004 11:30:54 AM EDT
[#19]
Anti-seize that contains copper and aluminum is for use on steel to steel, NOT for steel on aluminum. The metals in the anti-seize will be ground into the soft aluminum receiver.
Moly grease (plain old wheel bearing grease) is fine on the barrel nut and the Rifle receiver extension. For the CAR extension and castle nut, dry, with ONE drop of SERVICE REMOVABLE Locktite. |
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Posted: 8/1/2004 12:25:01 PM EDT
[#20]
I just went with a drop or two of blue loctite on my extension and castle nut, dry, no lube on my M4gery. Am I wrong here? With the castle nut wrench it breaks right free and doesnt loosen up during use.
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Posted: 8/1/2004 6:20:35 PM EDT
[#21]
Cleophis, 100% right.
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Posted: 8/1/2004 6:29:05 PM EDT
[#22]
Thanks Free Man. I feel better now. What's with purple loctite? I've always used blue for just about everything AR15 related (KAC access., sling swivels, etc.) where a screw needs to be set, but not needing heat to get it off.
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Posted: 8/2/2004 10:25:44 AM EDT
[#23]
Newbie assembler here; I used a black moly lube on my buffer tube threads. It may have graphite in it. How severe of a threat is this? Is it severe enough that I should immediately disassemble and degrease? I used the same lube on the buffer spring (not drowned; just touches) and on the threads of the various screws for my ACE stock.
Do I need to get this stuff off of there and use a different lube? |
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Posted: 8/2/2004 12:50:23 PM EDT
[#24]
If it has graphite in it, get it off anything aluminum. It isn't a problem with steel or plastic. It causes a galvanic reaction between the steel and the aluminum, causing it to corrode. It is a long term process, so dropping everything, running home and cleaning it off isn't necessary. Just clean it off in the near future.
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Posted: 8/2/2004 1:44:38 PM EDT
[#25]
OK, the purple is for smaller screws, as in set screws and instruments, and the blue is for larger (over 1/4") screws. Both inhibit screw movement, but can be loosened with hand tools. I got this info off Loctite's product site. I've always used blue for everything firearm related and had no trouble. Nothing comes loose during normal use, but if you need to remove the screws, you can with proper fitting tools.
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Posted: 8/2/2004 6:17:32 PM EDT
[#26]
Do I need to put Moly grease where the buffer tube screws into the receiver?
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Posted: 8/3/2004 5:44:04 AM EDT
[#27]
I noticed when i took my barrel out of the receiver, the Bushmaster factory had put some moly grease on the threads of the upper and on the part of the barrel extension that fits in the receiver. So when reassembling, these are the 2 places that got a bit of grease.
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Posted: 8/3/2004 11:43:15 AM EDT
[#28]
What color was the grease? Just curious.
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Posted: 8/4/2004 2:47:46 PM EDT
[#29]
Yes, that's where it goes, tube to receiver contact. If desired, use loctite, blue, on the tube where the castle nut tightens. /S2 |
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Posted: 8/4/2004 2:49:09 PM EDT
[#30]
Sulaco, thanks.
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Posted: 8/4/2004 2:49:54 PM EDT
[#31]
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Posted: 8/4/2004 6:10:17 PM EDT
[#32]
OK!! All these words and products. What should I use, what is it called, and where do I get it?? I have looked at sooo many greases that I am confused, have done internet search, and called vendors, and still "Have No Clue" what to buy!! Give me the "WORD", and I can assemble my two new projects and start shootinghanks[
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Posted: 8/4/2004 6:16:22 PM EDT
[#33]
From the "Build your own upper" sticky: "Molybdenum-Disulfide grease (per the TM) This is for the upper receiver threads. This is found at any auto parts store or hardware store for cheap." |
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Posted: 8/5/2004 5:23:30 AM EDT
[#34]
It was brownish/yellowish. This may have been a result of some fouling from shooting ~6000 rounds though. |
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Posted: 8/5/2004 5:26:52 AM EDT
[#35]
As a fellow LA resient, I had a hell of a time finding Moly grease locally ( I live in BR). Reg places like Lowes or Home Depot only carry lithium type grease. And auto parts stores only seemed to have graphite or copper based antiseize. I ended up breaking down and ordering the grease direct from Bushmaster and adding some other things to my list to offset shipping. Bushmaster Moly Grease |
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Posted: 8/5/2004 1:32:27 PM EDT
[#36]
Guys, for moly grease, buy ordinary WHEEL BEARING grease made for disk brakes (higher temp).
Do not use anti-seize compounds with powdered metal (silver or copper colored stuff). The metal particles will be ground into the soft aluminum. Anti-seize compounds with metals are for steel on steel. Don't make these little jobs (buttstocks, etc) harder than they really are. Why do we put grease on the threads of the barrel nut and upper receiver when installing the barrel? For easy disassembly when changing barrels? NO. In my opinion, when a barrel is worn out, it is time for a whole new upper receiver, too. The purpose of the grease is so that the nut can be smoothly tightened up without damaging the threads. 30-80 ft-lb's can be a lot of stress on soft aluminum. You just on't need anti-seize here. No need for grease on the receiver extension. You can, it won't hurt. But on the CAR buttstock, especially, you want it to stay on without being unscrewed. This won't happen on the rifle buttstock due to design, but can on the CAR buttstock. No grease, just some SERVICE REMOVABLE Locktite. SERVICE REMOVABLE means you can take it apart later. If you need some grease for AR assembly, wheel bearing grease, or even the stuff in your grease gun will work just fine. KISS! |
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Posted: 8/5/2004 3:36:42 PM EDT
[#37]
I just wanted to say thanks for being on the boards and offering your widsom. I cannot count the times that I have gotten paranoid over things like putting on a bbl, extention tube etc. because of all the complicated processes people say you have to do (you know what I am talking about). I am pretty new to ARs, I have only build 1 and half of another one. After all the confusion, you come along and make it all very simple. |
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Posted: 8/5/2004 6:32:55 PM EDT
[#38]
Thanks, guy!
BigAl! In Louisiana? Baton Rouge? There must be a gazillion industrial hardware and lubricant supply places. Or go to a boat shop, where they work on outboard motors. It is just grease, like used on bearings. And if you can't easily find "moly" grease, just get some ordinary wheel bearing grease. |
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Posted: 8/5/2004 7:50:17 PM EDT
[#39]
Yeah if I had known I could just use an ordinary wheel bearing grease, I would've done that instead of paying a whole lot more to get it from BM. Maybe next time I re-barrel an upper.
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Posted: 8/7/2004 8:19:54 AM EDT
[#40]
I just received confirmation from Valvoline that their Moly-Fortified Multi-Purpose grease, part # 632, does NOT contain any graphite. I didn't think it did, but thought I would check before passing the info along. I buy mine at NAPA.
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Posted: 8/7/2004 9:44:12 PM EDT
[#41]
There you are, Valvoline. It does not have to say on the can "Mil spec moly grease especially made for M16's".
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Posted: 8/8/2004 6:29:17 AM EDT
[#42]
I got a pot of Moly grease from Bushmaster. You know its the right stuff, because they use it.
If you want to play it safe I would just order a pot of it from them. It lastes for ages, so one pot will do a lot of gun jobs you may have in the future. Thats just my opinion though!!! 
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Posted: 8/8/2004 12:38:54 PM EDT
[#43]
I use a jar of Hoppes Moly Paste.
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Posted: 9/8/2004 8:04:30 PM EDT
[#44]
Awesome! Since I'm going to be using a 6 position stock, I don't have to worry myself with this problem any more!
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Posted: 9/10/2004 4:12:42 PM EDT
[#45]
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Posted: 9/12/2004 10:45:31 AM EDT
[#46]
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Posted: 9/13/2004 4:18:08 PM EDT
[#47]
"MolyKote G-n Metal Assembly Paste" made by Dow-Corning. Go to www.dowcorning.com and call or e-mail and ask for a free sample. A small tube will last a lifetime of barrel changes. It's really good stuff. |
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