Was thinking about installing a new barrel on my rifle. Was wondering if anyone could tell me how difficult it would be and any links or directions on installing a new barrel on a upper receiver.Thanks

Home_Erectus will no doubt be along soon to show you how simple it is. I can't find the link to the thread he usually references.

You'll need a vise, receiever block, armorer's wrench, 1/16" pin punch, hammer, and maybe a medium sized flat bladed screwdriver.

I'm building up my tool collection now and I havn't heard that I need a screwdriver, whats it for?

Usually for adjusting the end of the gas tube so that it better aligns with the carrier key. In conjuction with bending the tube under the handguards. Also useful for rotating the weld spring retaining ring if you don't want to use the gas tube to do so.

Handy later on when the bolt jams shut and you can't get it open with the charging handle. [lol]

I'm only too happy to oblige...  [:D]  [url=http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=173151]Click here[/url].

And it begins!!!

I've got the tools on order to do my first barrel change. Iv'e read through your instructions, Homo Erectus, and they are quite helpful. I also read through the TM though and they seem to put a lot of emphasis on using the torque wrench when installing the barrel nut. This is the only part that bugs me. Why would recommend this if it was not important. I understand your reason not to use the torque wrench, but usually everything in the FMs and TMs I have used have been there for a good reason. Does anyone else skip using the torque wrench on the barrel nut? Not knowing the torque spec of the nut makes me nervous...am I just paranoid? I always torque all my engine parts, etc to the correct spec, even my wheel lug nuts on my truck....

Slightly but that doesn't mean that they aren't out to get you. If you start getting over 90 ft/lbs (some say 100 ft/lbs) you can start to shear teeth off the barrel nut. Put the nut on "umph" tight, if the teeth don't line up try a little more. Still no luck the back the nut off and try again.

Use some grease (esp between the mating flanges on the barrel extension and barrel not) to prevent the barrel from rotating as much in the upper and to prevent galling the threads. I've had to remove a couple of un lubed barrel nuts that were put on more than 'umph tight' and one of those involved cutting the nut off with a Dremel.

It's not real complex. The hard part is the gas tube and sight alignment. [:)]