Does anybody have a link to where I could find one of these.  I find myself with a couple of lowers, regular triggers, and no money.  I would like to at least give it a shot.

Thanks,
Mark aka usma89

Check out this site for a do-it-yourself trigger job as posted on this board somewhere else.  [url]http://www.geocities.com/molonlaberkba/triggerjob.html[/url]

Hershey

After you do the free trigger job, try this to take up the extra slop common on standard triggers.

Buy a $.24 set screw from the hardware store the same thread as the pistol grip screw.    (1/4 X 28 if i'm not mistaken)  3/16 inches long should be plenty.

1.  Remove pistol grip.
2.  Cock the hammer.  (put something between the hammer & lower reciever to prevent damage when the hammer releases.  I use high density foam from shipping containers)
3.  Install the set screw through the pistol grip hole.
4.  After the set screw contacts the trigger floor plate, turn it in very slowly until the hammer releases.
5.  Back up the set screw about a quarter turn and re-assemble everything.

Definitely [b]function check the rifle[/b] before you load it or go the the range.  It is posible for the rifle to double tap if the set screw is too far in.  This will not happen if it passes the funtion check.  If it doesn't pass the function check, back out the set screw a quarter turn at a time until it passes.

After it passes the function check, apply a dab of pink fingernail polish to the set screw to hold it in place.

THANKS Philsar! I'm going to do that to mine tomorrow.  Thats what I love about this forum. Fine folks who want to make life's pleasures that much better.

I don't mean to stomp this thread, nor start another one from within, but I feel the need to point out one very key factor that I had encountered while "reducing trigger slop". My two cents if you will.

After I competed the "15 minute trigger job", I realized that I had way too much travel/pull before the hammer snapped. Upon reading this thread on trigger jobs, and philsAR's coments, I felt enlightened, and after attempting to contact Phil (to no avail), decided to follow his directions, and "clean up the trigger slop" as well. I had no idea if Philsar's use of the phrase "trigger slop" was what I was encountering or not, but after careful reading of his post, and close inspection of how my weapon was behaving mechanically, I saw it was exactly what he was talking about. Believe me, it works very well, and it was a painful decision to start "cutting away" at my newly purchased weapon, but there was one thing I encountered that may or may not be an issue to everyone who does this. I think it might depend on whose lower parts kit/Fire Control Group you may be using, but I'm not sure. Anyway, after setting the trigger with the setscrew per philsAR's instruction, I found that the saftey selector would not go into the "SAFE" position. While attempting to shorten the pull of the trigger, the setscrew was essentially pushing the floorplate of the trigger up against the drum of the safety selector, thus making it impossible to rotate the selector from it's flat machined "FIRE" position to the unmodified round "SAFE" position on the drum. The setscrew did it's job, but in turn, created a whole new set of problems. I ended up filing VERY CAREFULLY, SLOWLY AND TESTING THE FUNCTION with a nice jewlers file until I had removed 1/32" worth of metal perpendicular(while in the SAFE position) to the original machined surface that was present from the manufacturer, and 1/4 inch wide(the width of the needle file). In otherwords, if the selector is placed in the "FIRE" position with the pointer straight up, the bottom of the selector drum has been machined flat, but if you'll notice, the "SAFE" position doesn't have that. It's surface was left "as cast"... round. This area needs to have a similar flat surface/or round if you prefer, (though the flat surface is much easier to accomplish vs. decreasing the diameter of the drum porportionaly by rounding off the material with a jewelers file and removing that much more of the protective finish on the metal). Like I said, it doesn't require much removal of material, but in my case, it wouldn't work otherwise. It did however make a beautiful setup! No more pulling on a 10.5 lb trigger for a gritty, grinding 3ft before the hammer fell! Note, this was accomplished by doing the 15 minute trigger job as well.

I should note here that I am in no way a gunsmith, and don't claim to be, but I am however extremely mechanically inclined and have the presence of mind to know when I'm in over my head! This was to some, a "shade-tree" way of accomplishing what one of those high dollar adjustable triggers do, for no money down, so I do not recommend attempting this if you're not inclined mechanically, or can't follow precise instruction, and I half wonder if I shouldn't have done it either, but it works, and it works very nicely @ 3/32 of trigger travel(if even that), 3.2 lbs of pull and smooth and crisp as a... well you get the picture. The entire proccess was accomplished very meticulously and exacting. I didn't just fire off with a bench grinder! If you don't feel comfortable doing this, farm it out to someone who has the technology. Hell you might not even have this problem that I had! My lower parts kit is a Model 1 as is the upper that came with it, so I have no idea if the Fire Control Group differs that much in comparison to a J&T, RRA or any others out there. I've never owned any of others. Personally, I'd bet the triggers are identical, as well as the selector switches regardless of mfg, but I just don't know for sure.

I hope this helped more than confused, and again, my apologies to those who started this thread(usma89,BDHershey,philsAR and 1dreamer)respectively. I just thought I'd share my experiences. If you'd like pic's of the selector work I did or more info, let me know. I'll tell you what I did, but I won't endorse it. All I know is I did it, and it works great. I can't post pic's myself but I'll be more than happy to send them to someone who can.

SEMPER FI -
Cpl West

I think it's time for me to do this.. I find the only thing really lacking in my bushmaster is that trigger. I swear it must slap back a full millimeter after releasing the hammer. By comparison to some other ar's I've shot, that were almost impossible to tell any 'slack' in them.

Thanks!

I really like your insight into my next project

Thanks usma89. After writting and submitting, I realized how much had been written. It's alot to digest, but if it helped, then it was worth it to me.

Good luck brother and SEMPER FI -

Cpl West

[url]http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=168648&w=myTopicPop[/url]

here is the gun I will try the trigger job on

I would suggest not installing the setscrew to reduce sear engagement unless you are prepared to use this rifle very carefully at the range only.  This could lead to a dangerous condition.  The trigger job, as described in the short article, has full sear engagement and is in no way unsafe.

Just wondering if anyone ever experienced any light primer stikes with the 15 Minute trigger job?

If so which ammo did not fire properly?

How does the possiblity of a light primer strike compare to the Accuracy Speaks single stage firing group?

Another option is to just buy the lightweight trigger, hammer and disconnect spring kit out of Brownells. They are lighter than standard AR springs and you don't have to monkey around with anything. Just swap it out and voila...you have a 4 pound trigger. I think it is only like $10.

That seems like a good option.  Will these lighter springs also increase the chances of a light primer strike?

I am not sure about the primer strike, but I just looked at Brownells and they have the Yellow Tavern spring set for $4.00, they have two other brands that are like $12 and $8.

i ordered a set of the yellow taverns, and a set of the jp springs from brownells today, and they've already shipped.  i'll let you guys know when i try them out.  one set's goin' in mine, the other set in a buddy's, so i'll know results on both.  i'll post 'em once they're in.

the jp springs come with instructions for polishing down surfaces on the current parts, so that should help out too.

I have the AGI ar-15 trigger job video. Well worth the money if your going to do it yourself.

Ruff

I too ordered some Yellows and I will let you know what I think. If nothing else having extra springs for $4 isn't bad.

I used the 15-minute-trigger-job ... it worked great!!! I then put in oversize fire control pins ($3 out of Brownells) and a JP reduced power spring kit. It didn't make much difference in the 15-minute-trigger-job. The pins remained, the modified springs went back in, and that is the trigger I am using and couldn't be happier with it. And I am yet to have a misfire with a light primer strike using many different types of mil-spec ammo.

please let me know how it works.

I love this site, my wife hates it.

Ditto to that!

[url=http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=2&t=150423]15-Minute Practical Trigger Job for the AR-15[/url] :)

Hi all, i finally went ahead and did the 15 min. trigger job by A_Free_man, and was amased at the differance it made. From 10lb - 4.5 lb. smooth with no excess travel, I highly recommend it!   Thx A_Free_Man !

I'm not exactly following this.  If you replace the screw in the pistol grip with a longer set screw and you don't tighten it down all the way, what keeps the pistol grip on tight?  I saw an after market pistol grip screw that had another screw threaded down the middle of it for this purpose.  I think it cost like $40 though.

Just ordered some from Brownells as well.  It was only $2.35 with my discount and you can get 4 kits and still stay within the $3.60 lightweight shipping.  Will report back when I get them installed.

I received my Yellow Tavern Custom Shoppe AR15/M16 Reduced Power Action Kit in the mail today.  Upon opening the package from Brownells, I can say I was a little less than impressed.  Here's what they look like in the package:

[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/059975-big.jpg[/img]

It appears their way of marking reduced power springs was a haphazard spraying of red paint.  All four kits that I received had springs painted in a similar fashion.

[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/059977-big.jpg[/img]

This stuff looked like it would come off with the first application of whatever cleaning solvent I used, so I decided to invest a little time to clean off the springs.  After a quick dousing in Krylon Off, they came out looking great.

[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/059978-big.jpg[/img]

Here's the patient, a Rock River Arms M4gery upper with a PWA lower.

[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/059979-big.jpg[/img]

Here are the springs installed on the trigger components and ready to be put back into the lower.

[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/059980-big.jpg[/img]

Overall, my impressions are that the Yellow Tavern springs work as advertised and have reduced the weight of the trigger pull.  I've had the stock springs and JP springs in this rifle and these seem provide the greatest reduction in trigger pull weight.  If you're willing to do a little cleanup work, it's a great upgrade for an overall cost of a little over $3 a kit.