Hi ... I need a bit of advice.

What type of upgrades would best accurize my rifle.

It is an AR-15 Post ban Match Hbar Flattop with a Smith Brake. 20" 1/7 HB w/ Removeable carry Handle. New condition.

1) I want to accurize it.
2) I have a custom dual laser IR and Red that I need to mount to it. (A bit better laser system than my PAQ-4C)

I am sure I need to free float it and that I will need at least one additional rail mount for the laser.

I usually shoot M1A and had them done by the best like SS Obermeier.

This AR is simply for Varmints and "Night" Varmints so I will accurize it myself.

Asside from a buffertech and accuwedge, freefloating and a trigger Job like Jewell, JP or Milazzo-Krieger ... what else do I do to tune this puppy?


What is the best handguard for free floating?

I'm considering also putting a 4 rail gas block on ... whats the best?

I really want a clean simple rifle easy sling set-up and basically asside from a bipod attaching place only two very small additional rail mounts for flashlight and IR.

Any suggestions that will keep me clean lean and mean and from making a "space gun" that will rattle every screw and have junk hanging off it?


George (M1A Simpleton)

GRS444, it's probably already as accurate as it needs to be for what you have in mind.  That match barrel should do sub moa easily.  Adding a float tube could help a smidge, but I'd just drop an RRA trigger in it, and figure out what float setup you need.  The FIRSH is probably perfect, but you'll have to get the brake off to install it...if you can do that yourself, then the FIRSH itself is only $125 or so.  If you don't want to mess with removing the brake, then try the SIR...it's a lot more expensive, but at least you don't have to take the brake off or pay a smith to do it.  

Unless you don't like the profile, I'd just leave the front sight on...you're not gonna see it through a scope, so why bother changing it out?  If you do change it, a removable block is around $35 or so, depending on which one you get...but once again, the brake will have to come off to install it.  

Just get yourself a SIR, mount the stuff you already have to it,then work up some good hand loads.  The best way not to make your AR look like Huggy Bear's Eldorado is just not to put the stuff on there!  

OK ... Where do I find an SIR ... I could not find the item via websearch.


Excellent advise BTW.

This may go contrary to popular opinion , but I've found it to be wise to shoot a new rifle as is for a few hundred rounds to make sure the barrel I'm working with will deliver good accuracy before I run out and spend major bucks on it. There's nothing worse than putting a lot of work (and $$$$) into a gun with a barrel that's never going to be much better than dead average.

After all, the stock rifle should shoot pretty good out of the box, even with a stock trigger (if you learn how to shoot a stock trigger). Then when I'm satisfied I have an accurate barrel worth spending money on, I will start sprucing it up to get those groups down to where I want them--floating, good triggers, and so forth.

And not knocking Colt--I love 'em--but I've shot more Colt "never gonna be good enough for me" barrels than those from any of the other big names. I'm sure I'll catch some flames on that one, but I have the stories to back it up.

And after you start customizing yours, if you want a clean look in a rifle, a DCM configuration will give you everything you want--if that's the style you're looking for.

Naturally, the opinions of others may differ....

Agreed. I will be happy to shoot MOA with it.

I like very nice trigger pulls.

This one creeps and crawls and does not break well or clean.

I was considering cleaning it up with a swab jewlers rouge on a dremmel. Then applying techra to it.

I've had very good sucess with FALS in cleaning upthe trigger.

Anyone had good success cleaning a stock trigger pull on a Colt AR to tidy up the breaking?

I was also considering doing the spring set change to lighten the pull as well.

I might also put in a JP.

I've had two before that worked well for the lighter pull.

I will test it with a new trigger (Or ecleaned one) and scope it and bench shoot to see if I have a decent barrel before I start spending more on the rifle as a Varmint gun.


Geo

You want the commercial version, since you don't have to do anything except replace the existing handguards with the SIR.  (something integrated rail lol...can't remember what the s is for).

[url]http://www.calssportingarmory.com/ARMSnumber45.htm[/url]

Like I said, they ain't cheap...but they're the sh** according to the people who have 'em.  

SIR is cool but he has a 20" barrel.

not sure if the rifle length SIR is reasonably available yet.

Right ... looks like I need another choice for a freefloat (20" standard)easily installed weaver 4 rail system. (Must be metal and have heat shield)

Any out there that install easily and are rock solid and have solid mounting for my Laser sight?


Geo

CLEAN solutions:

1) Talk to John Hollinger about his tune of a RRA 2 stage trigger. John is an AR15.com member.
http://www.alccrl.org/whiteoak/whiteoak.htm

or get the stock RRA 2 stage trigger from Pete or Steve (Leass than $100 and pretty darned good. I have one.)

2) Mount your scope, then mount your laser to your scope tube.

Buy an adapter, or make one from 4 cheap weaver scope rings. Screw 'em together.

If you listen to these guys, they'll have you buying a $1200 handguard! What are you grouping, with what you have now? Pay no more than $55 for a free float handguard, unless you get the Delux Bushy or Armalite indexable 3 piece units. $100.

JMO

Pete

ps- I bet that compensator is gonna give grief.

Thanks ... however my Laser needs to be weaver mounted and is Infrared plus Red so Scope needs to be removeable with ARMS Quick Release (Got-all This stuff already.) The laser needs to be allways on the Rifle and Zero'd the NV system I have is the 6015 and can be mounted on head or rifle.

Still looking for the best choice for rock solid 4 rail Handguards for free floating.

I am considering getting a very solid lightweight handguard that has heatshield and freefloats but needs to be assembled by a smith for the best positive lock to rifle and at the same time have them install a 4 way weaver gas block.

My IR unit is 2/3 the size of a match box so it should fit well on top of the rifle.

I want to make sure that I have a bipod and sling attachment place however on the float tube.

Any suggestions?

One other thing...Since it's a post ban, I'm assuming that your Smith Brake is one of those with the four allen screws to hold it onto the barrel.

Once you get that Smith brake off to install your other goodies...Throw it over your shoulder and just stick with your regular crowned heavy barrel.