sent back my bushy 2 stage and installed the stock trigger.  can the sear be stoned or modified to smooth the trigger out?  did this on a 10/22 w/good results.  i had good explicit instructions for this.  can anyone point me to a source for tuning this trigger?  thanx in advance.

This is probably the easiest, safest trigger work you can do youself:

http://www.geocities.com/molonlaberkba/triggerjob.html

This is my "15 Minute Practical Trigger Job for the AR-15", which is meant to be easy to execute, and useful for the average shooter.

But do nothing else, no stoning, and don't even look at a Dremel tool.

This will give a safe, smooth trigger with very little effort or expense.  Beyond this, I suggest taking a look at one of the aftermarket trigger setups (I like JP, but there are others which will work well), but these will cost considerably more.

(edit to add)
Can someone make this link hot?

[url]http://www.geocities.com/molonlaberkba/triggerjob.html[/url]

Steve

Thanks, Steve!

Brownell's has a spring kit that has the springs already cut. I've used them, and it works. The springs are by JP, Brownells part#
452-000-007.

thanx for the tips and links.  i'll be doing this soon and post the results.  rick

Free_Man,
That's a nice trigger for 5 minutes of work. I just finished my second rifle, and being low on funds, I figured it couldn't hurt. I have a set of springs left over from a previous project, and used them. It turned out really clean. I have one question, why shy away from the Dremel? I had already polished the sear and hammer surfaces before I read your post. Is it because of the heat that is generated in the parts being polished? I keep a few paper towles wet with ice water when I do the polishing. Jewlers rouge makes it like a mirror. I've done this to both of my ARs', and my 10/22 without any adverse affects. Though hitting it too much could make it unsafe. I've never had to go that far to get a trigget/hammer like I like it.

The very light polishing done in the method I outlined removes only little surface irregularites.  

The sear surfaces of the AR trigger and hammer are surface hardened, you don't want to cut through this.

You do NOT want to round off the sharp edge of the trigger or hammer sear surfaces.  This can lead to doubleing.

Ideally, you should be able to pull the trigger, and then suddenly the hammer falls off the cliff.  You want to be able to start taking up on the trigger, and at any point, release it and have it go back to full engagement.  If you round the edges of the hammer and trigger sear surfaces you will have problems.

There really does not need to be any polishing beyond what I have outlined.

I just repaired a LEO's AR that was doubling... the previous owner had messed up the hammer.  A new hammer, and all was well.

[url]http://www.geocities.com/molonlaberkba/triggerjob.html[/url]

Has anyone here done this trigger job if so do you have any hammers/springs laying around that have been modified would like to see a real life picture of the final project.

Thanks

I have done this to several firearms, and I will try and get some pics in the next day or so.

TS

Thanks, I have a couple extra springs laying around and would like to try this. I hope it would cure the overtravel and the bit of creep in the very beginning of the pull.

Pics would very much appreciated.

I have done the "15 minute trigger job" on all (6!)  of my ARs, and I am very happy with it.  My one suggestion is to go ahead and lighten the hammer.  Otherwise, the weaker hammer spring makes a for a very long lock time (delay between pulling the trigger and detonating the primer).  If you lighten the hammer, though, it shortens up the lock time considerably.  I shoot much better with this mod.

Observing the hammer cam back when the AR15 trigger is pulled says that the trigger/hammer contact angle is wrong.  
Ideally, the hammer should fall without  rearward movement when the trigger is pulled.
Is that "misalignment" of the release surface angles a safety of sorts?  
I can appreciate surface hardening of engagement surfaces, but by now someone should be providing a hardened tool steel trigger/hammer set that  eliminates the thin surface hardening problem to allow a smooth as silk trigger pull.
Or is the Jewell the only answer?

Fuego:

Think about what you just said......the camming you described while maybe not desireable is NOT a design flaw.  It's done to assure that the sear engagement returns fully when the trigger is released before the hammer drops.  

With the light springs guys put into AR's for a "poor man's trigger job", if you also change the angle on the front of the trigger you are asking for trouble.  The light springs by themselves can't effectively return the sear to full engagement with the "stock" design parts. A slight bump to the weapon could release the hammer and cause an uncommanded firing of the weapon and a serious safety issue.

If you want a good trigger feel, go buy a sound design such as JP, Jewell, etc.  

Grinding, filing, lapping, stoning, or whatever on the stock trigger without proper tooling or knowledge may create an unsafe condition.  

Fuego, you are exactly right.  That is exactly why I advised no other stoning or polishing, but only that outlined in the method.  If done according to my instructions, there will be no unsafe conditions created.