Does the barrel have to be torqued or can it only go one way? does anything need to be torqued? Or just tighten intill it is lined up? if I am not going to permenatly install should I use some kind of lock tight? should I install the set screw? should I put locktight on the barrel or the set screw or both? thanks
P.S feel free to add anything that I did not cover.

The Wilson Tactical muzzle brake I'm aware of is for threaded barrels, so wouldn't have a set-screw, and would need to be permanently installed to be legal on a post-ban.

If you're LEO and have a LEO-marked lower, and get letterhead authorization from your agency, you could have it be removable - but you could also have a flash suppressor, then, so probably wouldn't want the brake.

Can you be a bit more specific about the brake you want to use, whether it's personal or authorized duty use, and the barrel you want to mount it to?

I want to use the wilson muzzle brake http://www.wilsoncombat.com/ar/muzz_break.asp
The lower is not a leo lower, I could have gotten a complete leo gun but teh price was kind of on the high side, and plus if I ever get out of law enforcment I am supose to hand it in just like alll of my high cap mags.

I am having my gunsmith thread my barrel to put the wilson muzzle brake on, my ? is since I am giveing him my gun what parts does he need to take off and is there a speical way to take them off and then put them back on so I get my gun back just the way I gave it to (but with the brake on it now)

It's not legal for you to build a post-ban into LEO config, even with a letterhead authorization...  only a licensed manufacturer can legally make a LEO gun...



922(v)(1) prohibits manufacture
922(v)(4)(A) only exempts LEOS for possession or transfer, not manufacture

If you get a LEO-marked lower, you don't have to hand it over when you quit your job - you can strip the LEO features off and keep it as a post-ban rifle.  The LEO marked large-cap mags would have to be sold to another officer or a dealer, or surrendered to your department, though.

To address the other part of your question, since you can only build a post-ban lower into a post-ban config, your gunsmith will need to PERMANENTLY attach the wilson combat brake after threading it.  It must be a permanent installation if the barrel has a standard 1/2-28 thread pattern, unless it's a LEO gun or going on a pre-ban receiver.

If the front sight has a bayonet lug, it needs to be ground or cut off.

Nothing else needs to be changed on a stock post-ban config upper.

I just want to know is there a special way the gun goes to together? or can it only go back one way? does anything need to be measured or torqued ? thanks

If the guy is a gunsmith, he should know how the barrel comes off and the appropriate torque (yes, it needs torqued) when he puts it back on.  You put a peel washer on the threads before the FH.

-Nuke

I'm afraid I don't really understand your question, then.  The barrel does not need to come off the receiver to be threaded, although you can do it that way, too.

The barrel-to-receiver engagement is accomplished with the barrel nut to the threads on the upper.  There is a minimum torque spec of 30 ftlbs and a max of 80 ftlbs.  The barrel is aligned to the upper by an index pin and should remain stationary relative to the upper while the barrel nut is tightened and torqued.  The front sight and gas port alignments are set when the barrel extension is attached at the factor and are not generally changeable.  The barrel itself does not spin like a threaded mauser or FAL barrel during installation.

If you're talking about the brake itself, you put on a peel or crush washer and tighten until it's all the way on timed correctly.  The crush wash deforms during tightening to retain proper torque spec while giving proper alignment.  The peel washer needs to be "peeled" apart a bit at a time to get proper alignment with a snug fit.  There is a torque spec for the muzzle device, but I don't recall offhand what it is - 15 ftlbs minimum as a guess.

How do you thread the barrel on center w/o taking it off of the receiver?

-Nuke

There are several ways:
1) get a TAT and die from dyna-systems.
2) remove the front sight base and pass the barrel through your headstock with just a few inches of barrel out past the chuck.
3) make a jig that fills and centers on the chamber, but provides shaft out past the end of the upper receiver, and has a dog to turn the piece.
4) use a fixture for the upper receiver that takes the place of the bolt carrier, and uses a key in the charging handle slot.

1, 2 and 3 are about as precise as you'd get unmounting the barrel and turning with centers and a dog.

I've done 1, 2 and 4 before, and had no problems with concentricity.  You need about a 1" through hole in your headstock to do 3, and it also involves removing the front sight base, so I normally wouldn't bother.  When turning a barrel between centers, use a small soft bit of copper, brass or lead to protect the crown (and throat, if applicable) between the center and the crown or throat.

Any turning involving leaving the receiver or front sight base on needs to go at a slower speed than normal since the piece isn't balanced along its spin axis.

I didn't read everything above but your question seemed to be simply how does one install a Wilson's Brake.

I'll assume your barrel is threaded. Place included crush washer over threads first with smaller end towards sight base and large side toward muzzle. Screw on brake just tight enough to align the center of the three slots in the brake pointing straight up even with the sight base. Hand tight is best for accuracy point being it doesn't have to be cranked to a thousand feet pounds of torque. Drill dimple thru set screw hole of brake into barrel. Tighten set screw. Weld over hole to make permanent if your weapons status requires such.

The barrel does need to be thread, I have apost band bushmaster.

I have some interest in this thread. I'm not sure I understand the procedure for installing a muzzle brake on a post ban bushy.

1. Does the bbl get threaded? Or is the brake just pressed, pinned and welded on?

2. I THINK I would rather have it threaded, pinned and welded on, I know it has to be permanently mounted. I just think the threading would stop any possibility of mis-allignment.

Are my assumptions correct? Do I need to insist on threading the bbl. first?