Here was my best group of the night. Oddly fired with the red-filter (which KILLS brightness).

My main issue was losing the FSP against dark backgrounds (the target) and I shot low and to the right a lot. After that I forced myself to intuit where it was after moving from a light background to the target. Above are the results. It stood out better, MUCH BETTER! With the large aperature designed for this kind of thing. Using the small aperature, I could only shoot with the red filter flipped open.

I am very happy, but wish I did not lose the FSP and would more than willingly spend $30 for a new FSP with a tritium insert of some sort if I could find one .08" or smaller (Mil-spec is .07"). I hate the whole idea of a dang telephone pole up there.

The TDI/CAA mount fit VERY VERY snug on my bayonet lug. I am not a fan of how it mounted (set-screw pushes against the lug from beneath, pinning it in place and marking the lug while doing it. Not bad, and not a problem, I just think it could have been better thought out.

It did not shoot lose (I could lock-tite the set screw, but opted to test it first), and the mount SEEMS to be pretty dang stable.

However, my M-3X mounts sloppily to the second M1913 rail, and not so bad on the first rail. When I say sloppy, I mean if I shake the weapon hard you can hear it rattle a hair if you listen and hold down anything else that might rattle. At no time did I feel that it could fall-off or anything else, it is just something I made a notation of. On the first M1913 rail, it still wiggled, but the rattle was gone. -1 for TDI/CAA's consistancy/manufacturing process. I could easily observe movement of the beam when I wiggled it with the light on. This did not move the hot-spot in any way that would affect a shot or cause the beam move from where the sights were pointed by enough to matter except academically. However, something to note: a TLR-2's laser would have been worthless except for pestering the cat. For a dedicated flashlight mount, it does excellent and I feel that it is very solid. Beyond that, I would not recommend it.

I would also like to add that my M-3X fits a GLock with NO movement, ROCK SOLID. This is not an M-3X complaint but a TDI/CAA complaint/observation. Also, when I say it fits the lug TIGHT, I mean TIGHT! As in, they wore a bit of finish off of each other and it took some juevo's to install. No hammer or tapping, just PUSH/PULL like you mean it.

Sorry I did not take a pic of my set-up, it looks just like all the CAA/TDI mount adds online though. I opted to use the set screw on the back-half of the mount.

As far as the capability to engauge a target with the M-3X and no ambient lighting, I could hit a coyote-sized target at 75 yards or so assuming a hit means drawing blood, which imho is unacceptable as I feel you should only shoot something to kill it, and as quickly as you humanly can at that.  After a Tritium front-post, if I ever find one that meets my specs (no-larger than .08"-.085"), I would feel confident enough to do so expecting a clean/humane kill. Until then, I feel that 50 yards without the red-filter and 30 yards with the red filter is a safe self-imposed limit for me to ensure clean kills on any vermin.

In extremis, i.e. someone shooting at ME, I feel that at 75-100 yards I could neutralize the threat with this combination. This is more theory than practice though. Just an observation for any military types out there wondering how far out they can see a human outline well enough to tell if an AK is being presented in their direction and return fire.