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Posted: 12/14/2005 7:44:41 AM EDT
[#1]
You do have a lot to choose from but a good place to start is deciding if you want a true weaponsgrade light ($100+) or do you need to stick to a budget and keep the cost down?
To explain things better, a true weaponsgrade system such as the SF Classic & Millennium Univ. series lights have both a shock isolated bezel and battery retention (which keeps the batteries from hammering the lamp during recoil). If you go with a budget package and use something like a G2 or 6P you can add a s.i. bezel but there's no battery retention. Admittedly, for the light recoil 5.56/.223 AR-15 battery retention is less of an issue. |
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Posted: 12/14/2005 7:51:32 AM EDT
[#2]
For what its worth I went with a simple G2 with shock isolation bezel, tape switch and mount from BrightFlashlights and I've been very happy with that setup. The price for the whole package was very very attractive and BrightFlashlights is a very cool fella to deal with as well.
Damn I sound like an advertisement, lol. |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 1:34:49 PM EDT
[#3]
I also went with a G2 Nitrolen but NO shock Isolated bezel, and a pressure switch from BrightFlashLights. I have put about a thousand rounds through it and it still runs
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Posted: 12/19/2005 6:29:12 PM EDT
[#4]
G2 with a Shock Isolated Bezel if you want to MINIMIZE your risk of "Murphy's Law". You do need the shock isolated bezel, regardlesss of "Other's" experiences. The G2 without the Shock Isolated Bezel WAS NOT designed for weapons use...and Sure Fire will tell you so!
Tack |
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Posted: 12/20/2005 7:31:49 AM EDT
[#5]
Have Calvin at Brightflashlights build you a true weapons-grade light for much, much less than the equivalent Surefire Millennium series light. This is a 125 lumen 3-bulb system with shock isolation for the bulb AND isolation for the batteries. Plus, if you dismount the light it becomes an excellent hand held.
ETA: The light (not the mount) is all Surefire components through and through. 
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Posted: 12/20/2005 7:01:09 PM EDT
[#6]
If you can afford an AR and ammo to shoot it, a G2 is inexpensive enough that you could afford to have two of them. One to mount on your rifle, and one to use for untility purposes (and as a backup for your rifle).
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Posted: 12/20/2005 7:03:56 PM EDT
[#7]
Oops! Double post ... sorry!
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Posted: 12/22/2005 2:46:21 PM EDT
[#8]
how much did that cost you and how do i contact them
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Posted: 12/22/2005 4:05:38 PM EDT
[#9]
There are several variables to cost (specific light choice, mount setups & activation solutions), feel free to contact us with any questions and we'll be glad to help. Thanks, Calvin email: [email protected] BrightFlashlights.com (website currently under construction) Phone: (352) 732-2156 from 11am-7:30pm EST (Mon. - Fri. & until 4pm Sat.) |
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Posted: 12/22/2005 8:27:50 PM EDT
[#10]
while it is true led lights do not project as far (because the emitter is larger so you need a larger parabola to focus it), i still would not buy any new filament lights.
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Posted: 12/23/2005 5:15:28 AM EDT
[#11]
IIRC my setup was well under $200, as opposed to around $350-$400 or a new M961xx. See previous post for Calvin's contact info. He's very, very responsive and knowledgeable. |
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Posted: 12/23/2005 12:14:24 PM EDT
[#12]
i run an M900 on my AR but i have an M3 and the same tail cap pictured and a scope ring that i normally us as a hanheld but it can be used as a great weapons light. Also one time i broke a little piece on my m900 (cosmetic not funtion vital) but b/c of the great warranty i sent it back and i used the M3 while i waited on it to return. The M3 IMHO is surefires best light on the market due to its verstility. good luck.
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