So I'm taking the VFG off my mid-length. Long story short, I've decided to try my rifles without VFGs. I think I may end up liking it better.

Anyway, it seems like the best place to mount my Surefire 952 light would be on the left hand side so I could activate the tailcap with my thumb. Unfortunately, this will get in the way of my rail sling mount.

I've got it mounted on the bottom rail right now and I can activate with the middle knuckle of my index finger just by flexing it. I don't know how well this will work with gloves but I'll try it when I get my shooting gloves next week.

I could mount it anywhere and activate with a tape switch mounted in a Tango Down panel. However, I prefer to keep things simple and not use a tape switch if at all possible.

I've got through the entire "Show your mounted lights" thread and seen a lot of different set-ups but I have no idea who some of these set-up are utilitized.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks for the response Grant.

Quoted: FYI, no VG = GLOVES!

Which is exactly why I have gloves incoming.

Put the light at the 9 position and hit with your thumb

As I stated in my OP, this will not work due to the rail sling mount I have in the 9 o'clock position. The light won't fit over the sling mount and it won't fit behind it because it will get in the way of the tailcap switch.

or put the light at the 3 position and get a tape switch and put it into the TD slotted rail cover.

That's still my last resort option. I have a tape switch with my Surefire 962 but, after playing around with it a bit, it's still not my favorite option.

Last, but not least get the SF M500A. C4

I have considered that but I'm dealing with a midlength which I neglected to mention in my OP. I have checked Surefire's website and did not see them offering a midlength 500 series light. I'd be surprised if they did due to the fact that the midlength is rarely issued to military and law enforcement.

After thinking about it some more last night, I might try something a bit different. I thought about putting my rail sling mount on the bottom rail. This would put the sling mount in basically the same place a standard FSB sling is and it would allow me to mount the light on the 9 o'clock rail. I have my doubts as to how a 3 point sling will work mounted on the bottom rail since they are not designed to do so. Regardless, I have all the parts to try this out so I will give it shot.

Getting back to my original question, I have seen many other rifles in the aforementioned thread which have a light mounted in the 6 o'clock position and are activated via the tailcap. I'm still curious to hear how people actually use the light in this configuration.

Quoted: If it were me I would just drop the 3 point sling. I am not a fan of them as they CAN get hooked on gear and just complicates things. Unless you are going on long patrols, the 3 point really doesn't offer you anything.

Duly noted. I've also got a standard sling I can try as well if need be but I'll deal with that when and if it's a problem for me.

Lights mounted at the 6 position with a tape switch in a TD pressure pad mounted on the 3 position would work. My problem with this is if you have to shoot over a wall then you have to expose more of your body to illuminate the target. This is why I prefer mounted at the 11 or 1 position. C4

I had thought about that (re: shooting over a barrier) problem as well. I'm just going to have to do some experimenting to see what works for me.

i've found (at least so far) that i'm faster without VG's.... so i'm in sort of the same boat as you...

the problem with a light on a carbine rail system is that you need a VG... but if you have a middy i'd put it out as far as you can on the 3oclock position... then wire it with a TD panel.. thats what I plan on doing...

If and when I get another carbine, I will look into the Surefire M500 handguard/light. With my midlength, I have the 952 (or 962) mounted so far forward that the mount is hanging off the rail a bit. It's still on there solidly though as far as I can tell. I could move it back a bit but I'll need to trim the rail panel to mount it back any further.

I suppose I'll have to break down and get a slotted TD panel but I might also look into Magpul's tape switch rail panel as well.

Quoted: Here's how I have mine mounted.  VTAC light mount on the bottom rail.

I might try that though I don't want to use any adhesives to mount the switch pad.

While I can see Grant's point about mounting the light on side (lower profile when clearing vertical barricades), I also think that mounting the light on the bottom rail retains the rifle's horizontal profile. In other words, it's not sticking out the side where it could get in the way.

On the other hand, if you want to rest the rifle on anything, the rifle will be rest on the light.

Matt I've been to lazy to replace my current light, an M6 but I run it on the 3 oclock with a tape switch run around the the left side of the gun. It's mounted back tword the mag well on the rail coveres and held in place with bike inner tube pieces. For me it works very well. When I decided to dotchthe vertical grip oin the Hbar I went with this set up because I use the mag weol as a grip. It works very well for me and I can activate the tape switch with my thumb no problems.

I ordered a couple of Tango Down panels w/tape switch recesses that I should have by the end of the week.

Once I get them. I'm going to try placing the light on the 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock rails to see what I like.

Post up how you like thos panels I'm thinking of getting at least one for mine but the current system is working right now so I may just skip it till I get a new light.

I received my Tango Down panels last week and finally got a chance to install one on my mid-length AR.

On a 9" rail system, the panel and lightmount (ARMS on Surefire M96) barely fit on the rail. About 1/4 of the mount hangs off the end of the rail but it feels solid and secure.

Because of the way the switch pad tab is removed and held in, you cannot trim the panel on that end. This means if you want to trim the rail tab end, you have to have another panel butting up against it to hold it in place but I don't know how many people would need to do this.

If you have a carbine length rail system, the panel cannot be mounted on the same rail as your light. There will not be enough room.

If you have a midlength rail system, this panel will probably work fine with not modifications. See my previous comment on this configuration.

If you have a rifle length (or longer) rail system, then obviously this panel will work fine.

I like how the tape switch is just slightly recessed into the panel so you have to put a finger tip in there to activate the light. This will help to eliminate more accidental light discharges. The tape switch seems to be held firmly in place.

Overall, I'm very pleased with the TD slotted panel. I'm glad I bought one for my other AR too.

Thanks for the update!

I've been running TD slotted panels for a couple of lasers on an MP5 and a .223 carbine. So far I'm really pleased with the perofmance I've gotten from them.  The slotted panel is head and shoulders above just adhering it to a standard rail cover.