Need help is setting up a 3 point rig. Where are the attachment points on the rifle ? Any pics would also be appreciated.

Thanks

It depends on your setup, what type of stock you have, front swivels, etc.   Check this thread out, it is how to build your own sling.  Later in a lot of guys had to modify it to fit their rig setup.  Hope it helps.

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=233665

I'm not sure what pictures you are looking for, but here is an overview.....

where'd it all come from stick?  please give a website and not your local hardware store.  i can't make a trip to your town

Quoted: I'm not sure what pictures you are looking for, but here is an overview..... img69.imageshack.us/img69/9214/m4slingwithinfo0aq.jpg

Nice sling idea Stick. I may have to try that.

where'd it all come from stick? please give a website and not your local hardware store.

Ask and ye shall receive my friends, here is another thread discussing this.....





This is a mod off ggllggll's version, so credit needs to go where the idea started.  This is a slightly cheaper, and more basic version, which is what I have found to work better for me.  Your results my be different, and I strongly encourage people tp play around and find out what works best for themselves.



Starting with webbing, I went with the 2" instead of 1 1/2".  I've got plenty of slings, and wider is almost always better, or at least more comfortable for me.  In hindsight, the 2" sling when compared to others is a great idea (at least for me).  I believe I used Polypro, which ends up a bit softer.  Long term use has not been evaluated yet, but I don’t see any immediate concerns.  Remember that you will need one or two sections of 1” webbing (or ¾” if it makes you happier) to attach the main body of the sling to the weapon.  Two pieces if you aren’t running a sling mount off the Front Sight Base (FSB).

www.strapworks.com/polyprowebbing.html
2" Heavyweight Polypro Webbing......................$ .25/foot
1" Heavyweight Polypro Webbing......................$ .15/foot


www.strapworks.com/flatnylonwebbing.html
2" Flat nylon webbing ......................$ .45/foot
1" Flat nylon webbing ......................$ .25/foot


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Next up is the release buckles.  To mesh with the larger size webbing, I needed to go with the larger size release buckles.  The difference in size will only run you an extra 25 cents, so don’t worry about the price increase (we are also only using one, so you save $1.50).  I also went with only one of these instead of using two like the original plans called for.  Using one release buckle still allows you a quick release from your sling, and it seems to work at least as well, but with less complication on assembly and in use.  I could find no difference in sling function between the two different assembly methods (I built both).

www.strapworks.com/nylonsiderelease.html
2"Single Adjust Side Release Buckles……..$ 1.50

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Now we come to the 2” slide strap adjusters.  These are also slightly more expensive than their smaller siblings, but only by 10 cents a piece.  Much like the original plans, I used three of these for the 2” webbing portion.  

You will also need two more of these to fasten your main sling to the weapon.  If you are using a sling adaptor off the Front Sight Base (FSB), then you will only need one for the rear portion off the stock.


www.strapworks.com/nylonslidesloops.html
2” Slide strap adjusters………………………$.48
1” Slide strap adjusters………………………$.28

question,

just bought a side sling mount for the lower front sight base and it seems to be a bit loose but its on there and not coming off. Is this normal or ok???

Its normal, don't sweat it.

ha, I have the same one on the pic you posted

What do you use to cut the webbing? Does it need some kind of hot knife thing?

I use anything sharp (scissors, serrated knife etc), and then hit the ends with a flame to seal it.

Thanks, the pics and info really helped !

Stick,
On your sling you use only one buckle.  What part did you leave out on the original design?  On the rear attachment, did you just make a small loop and connect the two ends with a slide adapter?

Thanks,
Gatorfan

Quoted: Stick, On your sling you use only one buckle.  What part did you leave out on the original design?  On the rear attachment, did you just make a small loop and connect the two ends with a slide adapter? Thanks, Gatorfan

If you look at the original thread, there was an extra piece that I didn't feel would do much for me, so I left it out.


Yes, the two ends are secured with a slide adjuster.

I'm also playing around with a few other ideas to try and work out a more universal sling.  I've been using this mount for the front with the idea that I should be able to break it.  

So far, I've been unable to do much to it, even when hanging off it with full body weight.  I would like to get an idea of how much absue it can take.  While it won't replace my slings that stay on a weapon, I'm trying to get an idea of whether it will work as a generic sling that can hold up to use on a wide variety of weapon platforms and mounts.

I'll try to write up more as a work on breaking it.


Here is a picture of it on a standard front sling swivel. It holds off to the side without the need for a side sling mount.

Here is a picture of it on a more traditional side sling mount.

Quoted: Nice setup Stickman... Curious how the latch at the front sling swivel holds up under use... We've started using the paracord for the IDF slings instead of the sewn on clip (similar to yours) after a couple of them let go unexpectedly. They don't break, but the gate lets go if they get turned just right.

This one is reinforced, and holds full body weight without any problems.  I had expected to break it awhile ago, but it has passed everything with flying colors.  I ended up giving it away to someone who could use it more than me, and I simply made another one.  In hindsight, I should have given them the new one so I could have test it to the breaking point.  

It notches in the front unlike many of the others I've seen, so I think that has helped keep it from letting the gate go.  It was something that I had expected, but have not seen happen yet.  The notches are quite like a carbiner under load, but they work pretty well up to this point.  However, I also understand that one person doing testing, regardless of how much, is not a valid indication of the total picture.