I just received a set of KAC BUIS. The front and a rear 200-600m BUIS for my Mk12 build. I am not used to sighting in with this type of sights, so I wanted to be sure I got the best out of my zeroing.

My first question is this: If the sight is listed as meters (200-600m), is there a way to zero for yards and how?( I know the matech can be zeoroed in both meters or yards, but this isn't the matech.

My second question is about the number on the BUIS. It has a 2,3,z,4,5,6....what is the "z" for and what does it mean?

Thanks

The z is where you set it for zeroing on a standard military zero target.

Here you go:

Thanks for the Diagram, it helped a bit.
But is there a way to zero the sight in 200-600 yards instead of 200-600 meters?

Quoted: Thanks for the Diagram, it helped a bit. But is there a way to zero the sight in 200-600 yards instead of 200-600 meters?

The sight will work fine for yards by finally zeroing it at 200 yards with the "2" set on the rear sight and making elevation changes with the front.  The real difference between the meter markings on the elevation adjustment and yards are not significant for center-of-mass shots until you range out to 500 or more.  Then the intermediate clicks between the numbers are used for POA=POI.
Try this experiment.  Get the best zero you can at 200 yards as above. Then move to the 300 yard line, set the "3" on the sight and fire a group.  Chances are (as least for me it is), the "3" is within one intermediate click +/- of POA=POI at 300 yards.  If not, record the difference as your true 300 yard dope (like "3" -1 click).  Obviously you can do this for the other ranges of interest as well.  You might also note the change in bulet strike per click at these ranges as well, because you will be using your own barrel/ammo combination.  I.e., use a big enough target, goose the sight 5 clicks, measure the POI shift and devide that number by 5.
Now if you are really expert with iron sights, I recommend a 300 yard zero confirmation with "3" on the rear sight--again makng elevation zero changes to the front sight.  However, if you can "hold them that well" you will notice the "courseness" for the elevation changes per click on the front sight post almost never yield a perfect zero.  So either use a M16A1 front sight post with 5 clicks per rotation vs the A2's 4 clicks, or do what I do is adjust the front sight post until you are less than one click "low," then file the front sight post slightly shorter (this will raise your shot group) until you are dead-nuts on at 300 yards.