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Posted: 9/12/2005 10:53:58 AM EDT
[#1]
I tried one on the front of a RRA tactical carry handle and it wouldn't co-witness, but worked ok. I ended up swapping it for a normal reddot because on a sunny day it wouldn't get bright enough to be useful.
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Posted: 9/12/2005 11:16:27 AM EDT
[#2]
and i heard they have paralax so longer range shots would be tricky
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Posted: 9/12/2005 12:14:02 PM EDT
[#3]
They are listed as parallax free to about 50 yards, if I remember correctly.
I am setting one up at 1:30'o'clock just in front of the barrel nut, as a short-range "hoser" sight, under a TA11 ACOG. Once I get the right mount, I'll try one as my primary, too. -z |
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Posted: 9/12/2005 12:20:55 PM EDT
[#4]
Military Moron has pics on his website of it being used as a primary if I recall.
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Posted: 9/12/2005 12:41:28 PM EDT
[#5]
i think triggerfin had one mounted on a sbr
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Posted: 9/13/2005 1:45:51 AM EDT
[#6]
It cowitnesses nicely when mounted on the "hump" of the RASII. It just works as a perfect place to put it. I've now put it on top of a TA01 with JP adapter but can't decide if I like it more there or at 1:30.
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Posted: 9/13/2005 1:57:46 AM EDT
[#7]
Mine are going onto the Larue SPR shoulder mounts. Inshallah someone will take a pic in Modern Day Marine and post it. It's not co-witnessed but is really intended as a emergency CQB sight. It's parallax free out to 40m according to Docter.
Zak....you have such good shizzle. |
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Posted: 9/13/2005 4:32:06 AM EDT
[#8]
If you put it on an arms #17DR with a #22M68 Half Spacer it will co-witness when mounted directly to your flat-top.
 I've got mine on a sir with a spacer and it's working well. 
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Posted: 9/13/2005 2:57:25 PM EDT
[#9]
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Posted: 9/13/2005 6:34:17 PM EDT
[#10]
 
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Posted: 9/14/2005 8:50:34 PM EDT
[#11]
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Posted: 9/14/2005 9:02:54 PM EDT
[#12]
Wish someone made a very compact cantilever mount for them. Id put one on my A1 Carbine.
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Posted: 9/14/2005 9:06:19 PM EDT
[#13]
If you had a rail there are adapters to put a small peice of rail in the small space that Zak-Smith has his. |
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Posted: 9/14/2005 9:24:45 PM EDT
[#14]
Zak....thassa very gangsta!
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Posted: 9/14/2005 9:34:44 PM EDT
[#15]
In the 1-1.30'o'clock position, you retain your cheek weld and just rotate the gun slightly until the dot comes into view.
This type of sighting does not work well when grasping the VFG. Since you are spending more time transitioning than shooting, it is faster to grasp the forward end of the float tube to kinesthetically point the gun as part of obtaining the dot sight picture. Mounting the sight further rearward seems to increase the side/side/up/down flexibility of eye placement to still retain view of the dot. A general note on BUIS and multiple return-to-zero optics. If you have either your BUIS zeroed or one 1x RTZ optic (ie, an EOThing or Aimpoint) zeroed , you can zero the other without firing a shot, in your living room, by obtaining a sight picture through both the BUIS and the dot optic, and then moving the other to coincide with the sighted-in sight. In this case, I put the XM193-zeroed EOTech (on LT mount) on, then made the Dr's dot coincide with the EOT's dot, then dropped it approx 2" @ 10 yards for a rough zero. The YHM spacer is a POS. It has to be slid over one end of the rail on which it's mounted, which makes it pretty much useless. I believe the GG&G one might work better. Wish LaRue made one.  [ link to LARGER image ] |
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Posted: 9/14/2005 10:57:36 PM EDT
[#16]
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Posted: 9/15/2005 12:41:16 AM EDT
[#17]
Would a LT 171 do the trick? ARMS #17 replacement.
How does this arrangement compare to say the Larue shoulkder mount? Simon |
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Posted: 9/15/2005 5:25:34 AM EDT
[#18]
Zak, Is your Dr. Optic the Military or Civi model? IIRC the only difference is water proofing and a protective cover over where the dot is projected from. |
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Posted: 9/15/2005 8:27:25 AM EDT
[#19]
Considering the mil model is like $700, this is just the 3.5MOA civ model. It doesn't look like the LT 171 has a rail on top?? |
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Posted: 9/15/2005 10:53:18 AM EDT
[#20]
Zak, you nailed the question for me. Am loking for the DR Optic to be at 1:30 and was wondering how far out it would need to be mounted (close to action or front sight). You Pic answered it.
Am wondering tho, for cheek weld do you put your nose to the charging handle and then rotate for the Dr Optic? And if so is your Dr Optic raised at all? Was also thinking the YHM has a 45 degree Pictnary (sp) add on rail, was thinking of mounting it at the far end of the flat tops top rail so the Dr Optic would be behind the handguard and over the top receiver. Do you thonk that that be too close for sighting the Dr Optic? |
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Posted: 9/15/2005 12:15:18 PM EDT
[#21]
Like I said, I think mounting it further to the rear is the way to go. I'd go further back on this one, but the PRI sleeve gets in the way of the rail segment.
You can see in the second picture that the DR is raised about 1/2" with the YHM spacer. That's the thing with the two holes visible, clamping directly onto the rail segment. Without the spacer, it's much too low to see through. For my head position, I take my normal ACOG cheek weld and just rotate the gun, staying down on it. I haven't shot this setup yet - just dry fired it around the house, so I might need additional height for the flexibility. There are a lot of mounting positions possible. The only thing that really matters is that you can get an acceptible sight picture and it's reasonably durable. If you have the diagonal adapter and some spacers, you'll be able to get something working. I plan to shoot this exact setup at the Tiger Valley 3Gun match. hope this helps Zak |
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Posted: 9/15/2005 6:13:44 PM EDT
[#22]
  
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Posted: 9/15/2005 8:12:12 PM EDT
[#23]
Sweet!
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Posted: 9/15/2005 8:40:55 PM EDT
[#24]
    
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Posted: 9/16/2005 12:11:11 PM EDT
[#25]
  The L.T. mount accepts both JPoint and Docter Optic. |
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Posted: 9/21/2005 8:43:26 AM EDT
[#26]
damn those are some nice rifles
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