for 300 shipped or save up and get the LEUPOLD VX-3 6.5-20X40 for 600?

is the leupold 2 times better?

I have the older Nikon 6X18 with the focus on the objective.  I bought it for $240 about 6 months ago.  It was being discontinued for the new side focus model.  It's very nice for my use on a casual target/varmint rifle.

I have many Leupolds, but none over 10x.  I suspect the lenses are better on the Leupold, but only in the context of a critical application - the Nikon is a good quality scope.  I have come to trust Leupold scopes for critical applications, but they are getting rather proud of them.

I have experienced Leupold's lifetime warranty and I don't know how anyone could do better.  My Nikon is also supposed to have a lifetime warranty.  I don't think their service could equal Leupold's in this area.

It seems to me that the Nikon is a very good value for most applictions.  That's why I bought it instead of nother Leupold.  I have not been disappointed.

is the glass pretty clear on 18 power?

Yes, but you get what you pay for.  The more expensive scopes (including the Nikon Monarch) will look better in a side by side comparison.  Most variables loose some clarity at max power.  They seem to get the best resolution about 20% below max power.  The Nikon is good, not the best.

The high power settings don't work so pretty good in low light conditions.  It costs a fortune to work this issue.  A Zeiss, etc. will still be shooting for 10 or 15 minutes after the lesser scopes are done for.

A very important issue (to me) is the repeatability of adjustments.  Both up/down and power settings.  Cheap scopes usually pass this test by accident.  Nikon's are reported to do well with adjustments.  Mine is fine.

I won't use a cheap POS scope.  Been there, done that.  I find that Leupold's meet my needs and expectations every time and that's what I usually buy.  I gave this Nikon a chance after hearing lots of good stuff about them.  I think it is a good scope.

I know this Nikon is not as good as the $600 scopes.  When I'm using it, there is nothing slapping me in the face telling me I should have spent more money.  It's an entry level, quality scope if that makes any sense to you.

If your're willing to give up the side focus, you could go into a Weaver Grand Slam 6x20x40 for $335 plus shipping.  It's a little more, but this is a VERY good scope.  I had $400 to spend, and was thinking Leupold.  I called SWFA, and they convinced me that the GS was a better value, so I got one.  I have not regretted it since, and put that scope on my most accurate rifle, a Savage 12BVSS in .22-250.  EVERYONE who owns a Leupy at my range who's looked through my GS has been very impressed.  To be honest, I think this scope looks better than any Vari X 3 I've ever seen.  

Anyway, I'm a broken record with the Grand Slam, but it's a phenomenam buy, as far as I'm concerned.  

It's as clear as it can be at 6x and 20x...it's got a quick focus knob, which is great for us old geezers with glasses. Very precise clicks on the windage/elevation adjustments, and no perceptibale changes in POI through the magnification band.  ( I didn't do them all, but I did do 6 9 12 and 20.)

I've got a Buckmaster 4.5x14x40...I don't notice any problems at 14x, but that's not usually an issue in scopes 'til you get to a higher magnification, in my experience.  

Call the folks at SWFA and ask them about the Grand Slam...that should calm any fears you have about the scope.  

i use to have a high power scope with AO and it really bugged me so i really want a side focus now

The side focus is a lot easier to deal with, especially on a long scope.  They all have an issue because of the mechanics of the design of the side focus.

They all will shift point of impact unless when changing power settings unless you remember to zero the dial before changing power settings.  You can only go in one direction to reach the desired power or there will be some slop in the system.

Quoted: The side focus is a lot easier to deal with, especially on a long scope.  They all have an issue because of the mechanics of the design of the side focus. They all will shift point of impact unless when changing power settings unless you remember to zero the dial before changing power settings.  You can only go in one direction to reach the desired power or there will be some slop in the system.

i dident quite understand this, can you elobrate some more?

With the side focus you are repositioning the lens with a knob that works at 90 degrees to the axis of movement.  Works kinda like the driveshaft/rear axle set up on a car.  Ya can't help having some slack in the system.

It's got some springs and stuff to elliminate the slack, but they only work when you rotate the focus knob against the spring pressure.  If you turn the knob the other way, you get the slack and some variance in point of impact.

It works fine if you know how to use it.  I may have a link that can explain it better.  I'll look for it.  I'm on the road and won't be back online till Saturday.

Here is a link that gives you the bottom line on adjusting a side focus.  It lacks a description of the side focus mechanism, but ya can't go wrong following the directions.  You are basically elliminating the slack in the system in a direction that recoil will not further affect it.

The decent side focus scopes work fine if ya follow the directions.


http://snipersparadise.com/faq/index.php?qid=29&catid=2

I understand now thanks alot


pretty much in a nut shell always go lower on the settings

Yep.  Go toward closer settings would be more accurate.  You are adjusting to elliminate parallax, not to focus the scope.  The settings on the dial are usually in yards - from 50-100 on out to infinity.  You want to run the dial out to infinity and come back till the parallax is eliminated, but no closer.

The yardage numbers are just a ball park estimate.  They are good to preset for a snap shot, but for maximum repeatability, ya gotta forget about the numbers and just adjust it till it's right.

Some of the dials can be calibrated.  You elliminate the parallax at some range over 1000 yards and reset the knob to indicate infinity at that setting.  The rest of the numbers will be pretty close after you do that.