In the near future, I will be rebuilding some old M16/M16A1s into either carbines or Commando-length weapons, which would make them a little more suitable for entry work and social engagements. I am going to put flat top uppers on these, regardless, and we always stick some irons (ARMS 40) on there behind whatever optic we mount (usually EOTechs, with some Aimpoints and one Trijicon Reflex out there, somewhere).

As a part-time, apprentice, know-just-enough-to-be-really-dangerous-Armorer-type (got the neat little Colt certificate on my desk at work), and also wanting to be wise with my fellow taxpayer's money, I am strongly considering not pushing to buy any ARMS 40s this time. I have a shelf with a bunch of unused Colt M4 carry handles (left overs from the last bunch of carbines, which got EOTEchs and ARMS before ever leaving for the streets), and I am strongly considering chopping these and using them as a fixed BUIS. I figure that I might try using a Dremel, and if that proves too tough, I can go down to our vehicle shop, where they have some pretty decent tools that I have used to grind, chop and mill in some of my other ill-conceived projects in the past. What is the best cheap way to re-anodize or at least blacken the bare metal after I get done with my ameteurish hack-job on these poor pieces of Hartford metal?

An even better question is, "Should I really be imposing my butchery on the world?" Maybe this isn't such a "good" idea. Any thoughts on this? Any compelling reasons why I should just beg for the extra $90 per unit and buy the AMRS? If I do, what would be a good (and moral, and LEGAL, as in these are government property) way of getting rid of these otherwise useless carry handles? ANy thoughts?

I'd go ahead and cut 'em. The stuff to blacken the aluminum can be obtained from Brownell's, but I forget what it's called, exactly. If you can secure a side-grinder in a vice, use a cut-off wheel and it'll make a very clean cut; a lot faster than a dremel will. It'll also be easier to make the finished cut look square. When you cut the bottom of the handle & clamping bar off, cut it the same length from the screw as the other end; this'll make sure the screw gives even clamping pressure.


Edit: Use the dremel to round off the edges of the cut. Even if you take your time to do it right, you can probably have them all done in just a couple of hours.

Zardoz is right on the money. Save money and cut it, as it ain't no good for much else with all the benfits ya get with a flat top to mount directly to.
Good shootin, Jack

Ask Troy for the pics; the one he has was beautifully done.

I didn't get the opportunity to round the edges before this BUIS went in a trade.  

Here ya go.  
[img]http://tnrdgrnr.com/project/MVC-112S.JPG[/img]

All it takes is a hacksaw, since it is just aluminum (except for the clamping rail).  Pneumatic grinders make very fast work of aluminum parts, so be careful or you'll be buying an ARMS #40 to peplace the now useless chunk of aluminum [;)].

[url]http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/chopacarryhandle.msnw[/url]


This might help, very informative.

birchwood casey aluminum black was $8 bucks at wal mart about a year and a half ago and turns bare aluminum black in 1 minute

I know what you mean about your mechanics. We are always using our city plant metal guys to creat stuff for our tactical team. We just had them make us some wicked rake and break tools that work great. The have also made a lot of mods to our armored cars that we use. They really enjoy doing stuff for us. (beats working on a garbage truck)

Good luck with your project.

Some would even say that a fixed BUIS is a good idea for a social rifle mounting an Eotech or M2.

[;)]

[img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/Attachments/DownloadAttach.asp?iImageUnq=15537[/img]

BTW, show us some pics of a whole stack of reworked M16's config'd for street duty!

[beer]

Corey

[img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/Attachments/DownloadAttach.asp?iImageUnq=17877[/img]

I've done three now and I have to say I like this one the best. Dremel first, belt sander second, and yes be very carefull to not let the power equipment get away from you. Aluminum grinds so quick, you can be way under before you know it. I thought this one was going to end up in that category, but I actually like it better than any of the other with more material left behind. Rock solid but nothing extra not really needed. Cheapo black spray paint after heating up the sight in the toaster oven first has been the best match in finish so far.

BTW Natez. I've read your earlier post before about the surplus gear you've been getting and I think I really hate you for it. [:)] I really could use an DX'd Comp M to repair the one I have that recently went down if you feel like helping out.

Good luck,
Mark

LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Getting blinded by the flash of a chopped barrel is fun too.
Jack

Well, if the guys know the limitations and drawbacks of the shorter barrels, let them have some.  Just be sure they are only using them in environments where the drawbacks don't come into effect and there are teammates with longer barrels to back them up if the situation dictates.  As far as flash, any room in your budget for suppressors, or do you already have some in your inventory?

Have you heard of the [url=http://www.ccfa.com/rifle.htm]CCFA SOPS suppressor[/url] or the [url=http://www.tac-ord.com/MS-556MIR.htm]Tac-Ord MS-556 suppressor[/url]?  They both use modified vortex flash suppressors as QD mounts.  The vortexes would give superior flash suppression for the rifles when cans weren't mounted.  Mind you, I have never personally seen either of these in action so i don't know how good they are or   how sturdy they are.  So, obviously, test the crap out of these if you think this is the way you would want to go.  Oh, if you do test these units, would you mind posting the results on the boards?  I am interested in these, but don't have the funds to just buy them and see if they are any good.  As a dept., they may be willing to borrow a sample for evaluation.  See how I sneaked in a couple of suggestions just to get you to test them so I don't waste my own hard earned money?  Seriously, though, I hope you get your people what they need.  Good luck.

This one looks great. How did you decide where to cut it? Is it hard to cut the thing straight?

It's about impossible to cut it straight. That's why you make the main cut far away from where you want the finish product to be and sand your way in from there. Maybe 1/2" away from where you want it to end up, but it depends on what tools you use. A fresh belt on a sander can do an 1/2" in about 5 seconds if your not carefull.

I actually traded this CCH and I kinda miss it. [>(]

I'm shuddering just thinnking about using Win 62gr Match to stop determined bad guys.

I can get Q3131 for significantly less (I think about $140 per $1000) ... and I may well go with it as a general-issue round, as it (and other mil-spec M193 loads) seems to consitently perform better than many of the high-speed loads, at least as long as bbl length is sufficient.

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You want to issue M193 when you're also going to have 11" barrels in the inventory?  Are you nuts?

Get some Black Hills 75gr OTM (Heavy Match) if you can't swing the 75gr TAP.  It works well from all barrel lengths you've mentioned and has much better terminal performance than M193.

Go talk with Doc Roberts at TF - with you being an LEO he can provide you with info to make the right decision.

, although setting things on fire MIGHT be an issue, and we have a long history of starting accidental fires in training

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Another reason for the Black Hills - its VERY low flash (unlike Winchester Q3131A)

Is 'Black Hills' on your buying co-op?  If so try their 75gr Heavy Match round.

I don't see the Winchester 62gr HP on any of Doc Roberts 'recommended round' lists.  I'll look at home to see if I have any other test results from the Win 62gr HP.

BTW These Winchester rounds ARE on Dr. Robert's 'acceptable for LEO use' list:
Winchester 64 gr JSP (Q3246)
Winchester 69 gr JHP (S223M)

So if you are stuck with Winchester check out the availability of these loads.

Hmm one of Dr Robert's tests lists a 60gr Remmington Match with 11.5" of penetration and a 67% fragmentation.  That should do better than the FMJ load.

CHOP CHOP [chainsawkill]

[img]http://home.att.net/~carbine308/wsb/media/183042/site1013.JPG[/img]

[img]http://home.att.net/~carbine308/wsb/media/183042/site1014.JPG[/img]

[img]http://home.att.net/~carbine308/wsb/media/183042/site1020.JPG[/img]

I ordered some Casey Birchwood "Aluminum Black" from Brownells.  It didn't take particularly well, maybe because I smoothed the metal too much.  I followed the instructions.

I didn't much want the ARMS #40.