Hello,
I just got the above set up.  Aimpoint ML2, ARMS 22M68 mount with full spacer.

Did you use loctite on all the screws?  Spacer screws and ring screws?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Nope - no locktite for me. After shooting my rifle for the first time I'll check the torque of the mount - then once a year or so.

I do locktite my benchrest and varmit rifle's sights but don't think it's needed for the tiny recoiling AR used for short ranges.

I use the semi-permanent Loc-Tite (#242, blue) on ALL of my screws, on any firearm.  I have had enough come loose over the years that it is now standard practice for me to ust it.

I've had two M68 mounts.  One I did, the other not!  The one I used LT on never moved.  The one I didn't did work loose after time but not bad.  After re-tightening I never had a problem again.

Thanks guys.

For those of you that have ML2s, are the first few settings just nothing, or do they have some sort of NV compatability like the M2s?

Also a matter I didn't mention.  The front flip up cap was broke apon openning.  Need to call aimpoint tomorrow.

I got my 22m68 and slapped the aimpoint in it and went out and dialed 'er in... group started opening up..

when I got home, found out the ring was loose from the base.

tightened it up adding loctite.  no problems since.

I highly recommend loctite.

Loctite the screws with blue loctite. They can alway be removed later. Don't use red loctite it will need to be heated for removal.

Would consider thread locking compound after an initial trial run for the summer (always nice to know everyhting works first and you really like your Aimpoint with this spacer etc.).

In the old days (20+ years ago), used new screws and new mounts on many large caliber rifles and had very good luck holding on many installation removing all oil with solvent (i.e. Gun Scrubber now days) and setting the screws near max (maybe with a tap or two on the driver).  However, these screws are actually harder to remove than many of screws put in with thread locking compound due to the metal to metal contact (one or two had to be drilled out .. ouch!).

On side note, stepping foward in time, my brother always specs thread locking compound in the tooling and equipment he designs to make removal easier (also acts to protect the threads from rust) and assembly more constant (thread lock compound tends to be a thread lube when wet).