Ok, I used the redneck method but the mags look great. Scrubbed them down with an SOS pad first, then washed again with dishwashing detergeant, dried. I put them on newspaper, sprayed one side, waited 15 mins, sprayed the other--repeated this 3 times. They came out great. I slapped some CLP on them this morning.
No oven, no praying, no high tech stripping solvents; just numerous "light" coats.

Steve,

besied the fact that yo did nothang the mags to spray, that was a perfectly acceptable way of doing it.  I've done it both ways (spray mags, that is).  But, why in the world would you apply CLP to a moly coated aluminum mag?

This will take off the finish won't it, and two why would you get potential dirt and gunk attracting substance on/in your mags?

just curious

The CLP didn't hurt the finish at all--of course I let it cure a full 24hrs. I did it for 2 reasons: 1) I wanted to know that the finish could "take" lube 2) My thinking is that keeping a light coat of CLP on the mags will reduce finish wear. So far both are proving correct.

Thats the trick THIN COATS and i mean thin!
I used KTX spray oil that Microtech use on there knives I think it works a bit better than CLP

After scrubbing in the sink with a little detergent in hot water, and rinsing well, I will  put them in the oven preheated to 200F, then turned off, with the light on, to dry out thoroughly.  This has NOTHING to do with curing the dry moly lube, only with drying out the water still in the seams of the mag body.

And two LIGHT coats of dry moly is plenty.  The thicker it is, the easier it will scratch off.  Yes, you will need to recoat them occasionally, so?

Before reassembly I will wipe down the springs with CLP, but as for any other oil lubriction, no.  It will just attract grit, and is not needed.

Do you just do the outside of the mags? How about inside.

I spray the insides with Remington Dri-Lube. Goes in wet but drys to a dry white film that does not attract moisture or dirt.

Bob