I have 1k of wolf ammo and haven't shot my AR yet.  Should I go ahead and shoot the wolf and clean good afterwords?  I have 100 rounds of S&B ammo too which I think would be better.  I have lightly oiled some parts but not the barrel, should I oil/clean the barrel before shooting?  

Thanks,
Karl

I would recomend against it. Its some dirty stuff, and while it may not hurt the barrel, it certainly wont help.

Chrome moly or stainless barrel? If you have chrome lined you dont have to do anything special.

yeah it's 556 chambered chrome-moly Hbar.  Should I stick with the S&B?

The only reason I wouldn't shoot Wolf in a new AR is that it is underpowered and is more likely to jam in an un-broken-in rifle (aside from simply being dirtier and taking longer to clean).

There is debate about the necessity of "breaking in" a non-chrome-lined barrel, but with a chrome bore, just fire a couple hundred rounds and clean it; that's it.

The "break in" period in an AR is most important for the moving parts, not the barrel.

Also, you should always clean a new barrel before shooting it first, then put a dry patch through it to remove any excessive oil before shooting.

Edited (again) to add:

Now that I think of, I would be more hesitant to use the S&B on a new bore than wolf; S&B uses a steel-jacketed bullet that is copper plated, where as Wolf uses a normal copper jacket.

Actually, if you have a non-chrome-lined bore, it might not be a good idea to use S&B at all; but that is also debatable.

Possibility of it becoming a Break it Period.


haha...sorry to be a pest...you all know how I dislike Wolf ammunition...

Also, you should always clean a new barrel before shooting it first, then put a dry patch through it to remove any excessive oil before shooting.

good info ^



MT

What should I shoot in it to break it in?  Would 200 rounds do it?

Quoted: What should I shoot in it to break it in?  Would 200 rounds do it?

Here is Bushmaster's non-chome-lined break-in instructions:

www.bushmaster.com/faqnew/content_by_cat.asp?contentid=135&catid=100

If you're not sure about Wolf, just buy any new-manufactured US-made ammo, or Win Q3131A (Israeli); Black Hills blue-box is also good (even though it is remanufactured).

Does a Stainless Steel barrel fall into the same catagory as a chrome lined barrel, as far as break in is concerned?

I shoot alot of wolf, but to break in I always use XM193.

Put a few hundred rounds of Q3131A or XM193 through frist to show your AR what real ammo (j/k) is before putting wolf through it

Quoted: The only reason I wouldn't shoot Wolf in a new AR is that it is underpowered and is more likely to jam in an un-broken-in rifle (aside from simply being dirtier and taking longer to clean).

NONsence I broke in my LMT with WOLF. Without a single malfunction. LMT also piles the park on their carrier so thick It felt like sand in the action before I got started. Now its as smooth as a COLT slippen outa its mamas woom.

The barrel is 16" 1 in 9.  Should I go to walmart and get some WWB?  That link to bushy's break in method said 120 rounds would do, would that be ok for now?  After it is broken in would wolf be ok to shoot in it or should I go for federal or others?

Quoted: Just shoot the rifle.

+1 but without WOLF. not a fan.

I went to BI-MART to get ammo because it is closer than walmart and I don't like walmart.  I picked up 4 boxes of remington UMC 55gr. MC L223R3 in the new green and white box.  Is this good for some break in ammo?  

Quoted: I'll say it again. Just shoot the rifle.

You can say that again.

UMC is underpowered and not very accurate IMHO. Winchester white box is a fine choice.

I don't really care about accuracy too much as this is my first AR and as long as I can get less than pie plate accuracy and have fun doing it that is fine with me.

Quoted: I don't really care about accuracy too much as this is my first AR and as long as I can get less than pie plate accuracy and have fun doing it that is fine with me.

Then why are you worried about break-in?  Break-in is theoretical, and "proper" break-in of a barrel is only supposed to take a good shooting MOA capable barrel to a .5MOA capable barrel.  Not really that specific.... but you get the idea.  It;s only for those uber concerned about the finest possible ultra-accuracy.

If MOA or just slightly over is good enough for you.... using superb match grade ammo (which most dont even shoot anyway!) then just go out and shoot the thing, and forget about breaking a barrel in, no matter if it is stainless, chome-moly, or chrome lined.

The ONLY barrels you should worry about break-in on are going to be match/varmint/sniper floated rigs, where you will be shooting match grade loads/match handloads exclusively, and MOA is not good enough.

At least, thats my opinion.  

Don't be suprised if the wolf does not cycle well during initial break-in.
It will not hurt anything.
Just try it and if it doesn't work well initially, you can try it again a few hundred rounds down the road...

For now:

Just shoot the rifle.

+1

I've got about 200 rounds of IMI 55 gr and 300 rounds of the polymer Wolf 55 gr through my Colt LE6920.  Every round was perfect and didn't have *any* problems with either.  

I'll save the IMI for SHTF and will plink all day long with the Wolf.  Just had 1000 rounds of Wolf for $99 at the gunshow.  After 10k rounds that's enough saved for a new Colt...

Wolf was not significantly dirtier than the IMI - besides, a boresnake only takes a few seconds anyway

$2000 on a rifle and you're using $3/box ammo. There are some things in this world I will never understand.

Quoted: $2000 on a rifle and you're using $3/box ammo. There are some things in this world I will never understand.

$3 a box???  Thats ridiculous!!!!  I would never pay that much!  


Seriously, considering that you will spend WAY more in ammo that you ever will on the rifle if it is more than a safe queen, finding a decent ammo that meets your needs.... and spend the least amount possible.  As long as it isnt dangerous to shoot (Wolf isnt) then the money saved will buy you ANOTHER $2000 rifle.

As for people who dont get this.... I will never understand.  

Out of 80 rounds I only had 2 FTF's.  It extracted and fed perfectly 78 of 80 which isn't bad for $3.99 stuff.  I kept it under a 6" group without taking my time and just popping away because I had to hurry up (range closes at 5:30).  Maybe some day I will get into major accuracy when I can afford it.  

Quoted: Out of 80 rounds I only had 2 FTF's.  It extracted and fed perfectly 78 of 80 which isn't bad for $3.99 stuff.  I kept it under a 6" group without taking my time and just popping away because I had to hurry up (range closes at 5:30).  Maybe some day I will get into major accuracy when I can afford it.

If you're paying $3.99 per box, then you're paying almost twice as you would if you order by the case online or pick up case at a gunshow.  Gunshows are great as you don't have to pay shipping.

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=16&t=193267

Quoted: $2000 on a rifle and you're using $3/box ammo. There are some things in this world I will never understand.

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There are lots of things in this world I will never understand also and why anyone would NOT use Wolf ammo or at least try it to see if it worked in their gun/guns is one of them.

I fire $1.35/ round .50bmg ammo in a $2500 dollar rifle....because thats the going price of the ammo. If it were a dime each I'd still use it. I could spend $7-10 dollars a round too, but I wouldn't need to split hairs at 1000 yds.....anything in a pieplate would suit me fine.

I fire Wolf ammo in a few $6500 dollar machineguns....by the tens of thousands per year.  Why?  Because it works, its inexpensive compared to all the specialty ammos out there and the savings incurred allows me to buy thousands of more rounds to shoot. All this talk of dirty ammo....thats what they built a whole industry around....cleaning kits and chemicals to clean your guns.

To date I have not broken a single part on any gun that I have used Wolf ammo in.

(although an Uzi weld did break the otherday but thats a known factory defect that has been addressed) The gun also has 22k 9mm, much of it +P+, most of it Wolf and some of it Winchester and severl hundred .45acp.  The breakage is not an ammo related problem.
 
The cost/quality comparrisons have been proven flawed on so many occasions on so many boards in so many threads by so many people concerning so many calibers its bordering on pathetic.

People who own $20,000-30,000 dollar beltfed machineguns fire 5 cent 8mm corrosive ammo in them routinely....why?....because thats what the guns were made to shoot.....all the time and they can buy truck loads of it at a time and shoot all year for peanuts.

If an ammo works in a gun, why use something that costs 2-3 times as much for plinking at a range?

 I'll be damned if I'd spend that kind of money to piss it down range into a berm when Wolf gives me all the accuracy, training abd reliability I need.

Statement of fact:  I have never once in the tens of thousands of rounds of Wolf ammunition in any caliber that I have used had a single failure to fire or other type of failure with Wolf ammo.
I will use it as long as its available and I would never, ever own a gun that would not shoot it reliably.

my dad has used wolf in his bushy, but i would never put it threw mine. put it threw my mini14, but that will eat anything. but its really dirty, and will just make the gun dirty. not good amo

bbr

Quoted: my dad has used wolf in his bushy, but i would never put it threw mine. put it threw my mini14, but that will eat anything. but its really dirty, and will just make the gun dirty. not good amo bbr

not good amo?

Good enough for me. I will be selling my 1000rnds of Wolf ASAP!

I'll give ya $20 plus shipping.  Hate to see you get stuck with a thousand rounds of bad amo.