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I have over 100K of the Turk 8mm. I have had [b]1[/b] FTF. That has been the only problem ever. Avoid the ammo made in 1947 and you will be just fine.
I have found it to be accurate, but you will ususally need a high front sight blade to be on target. I use it open sights out to 200 yards on ground hogs.
All of this ammo is corrisive.
[url]www.ammunitionstore.com[/url] has a great sale on the Turk ammo, and it has all been good years that I have bought.
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I took your advise and got a bit of this Turkish stuff.....1946.
What was wrong with the 1947?
I figured this ammo would be corrosive, I called SOG to verify that theirs was NON-Corrosive. They told me that it was Absolutely Non-Corrosive! 1940's Turkish with German RWS NON-Corrosive primers is what the lady told me.
SOUNDED LIKE A LINE OF B.S. to me. I Purchased it from the Ammunition Store.
Thank you sir!
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Chaos, SOG flat out lied to you. Don't feel bad, they have a quota of lies they must fill each day. [;)]
90% of the Turk I got from them was 1935, or 1939. The last lot was 1943. I was there a couple days ago and they got a load of 1939 in again.
The main problem with 1947 was quality control. Split necks, failure to fire, hang fires, bullets falling out of the case.........
The lots do not get bad progressivly by year. Some years are good, others are great, 1947 was just crap.
Without a doubt the Turk is corrosive. The ammo made on German RWS machinery is the Romanian. (It is corrosive too) The Germans helped to set up the Turk factory or at least had a hand in it, but that is it.. Another lie.
The Turk is hot, not just European ammo specs hot, it is hot. I get about 3,000 - 3,200 FPS with a 154 grain bullet. Compaire to U.S. M-2 ball with a 150grain bullet at 2,700 FPS.The only problem I have is rapid barrel heating when shooting in our timed matches. All of it shoots minute of clay pigeon at 100M, and minute of milk jug at 200M - open sights.