I have a RRA 9mm setup and I am using Factory colt 32 round 9mm mags.  I am also using the 9mm buffer and spring from RRA.

This setup is on a Pre Ban Eagle Arms Lower with 4 position stock.

I am getting several failure to ejects.  The empty case is jamming with the next round trying to go into the chamber.

Also, I am getting several rounds that just fail to go off after pulling the trigger.

I have put in a new hammer, and hammer spring...actually have used several diff ones to see if it would fix it.  NO LUCK, still getting no bangs on about every 5th round or so.  Yes, I have used various ammo..Win white box, S&B, and even Federal.

The FTE and no bangs occur with all the ammo types.  However, the no bangs are worse with the S&B.

I have attempted adjusting the mag block up and down as it has a slight amount of play in it.  However, this did not help.

Any idea?

THANKS

I belive your problems are with the Colt mags! Send them to me Now![lol]....Have you tried bending your ejector at all?....My RRA 9mm seems to eject best when the ejector is bent almost touching the carrier........As far as the FTF....about all the info I can give you is that S&B is known for hard primers,But of course that doesn't explain it with Win and Fed...Just for clarity,Is the hammer/pin failing to fire the primer or is the hammer failing to recock after firing?...........Sorry I cant be more help.............UNDERDOG

I have not touched the ejector.  I will mess with it and see if that helps.  I am getting primer stikes on the ammo, but just no pop.  The strikes look a little light to me, but I am not an expert on primer strikes.

You need to inspect your headspace... I had a barrel made by a favorite person, and it would not fire.... found that there was .025/.027" clearance between the bolt face and case face... all the fire pin energy was used to travel across the gap. Took the barrel over to Ohio Rapid Fire, and had them set the barrel back. problem solved.  "PAPPYO" had a similar problem, he can vouch on the repair.

Here is what to do:

1-Remove the upper from the gun.
2-Remove the extractor from the bolt.
3-Use a live round, drop it into the chamber, then set the bolt over the round.
4-Look at the case face to bolt face,, any air gap?? If so, measure it. I took and used a depth gauge on the bolt face, and did the same to measure case face to barrel face.

I have mine set up so that there is .005" clearance between the bolt bodys' face and the barrel face when bolt closed on a live round. [blue] the pocket on the bolt is .125" deep to the breech face, so have the case stick out .130" from the chamber to the flat on the barrel face.[/blue]  This will also allow for some crud to build up and still not mess with function when the insides get dirty.

[blue]NOTE- what you cut off the barrels' face. you need to do the same to the ring that sets against the receiver ring, to keep the bolt even with rear of upper with bolt closed.[/blue]

Make sure the ejector finger rides close to the bolt without touching, as the ejector has a small contact area to work with to contact the cases' base to get it out of the gun, so you need all the contact you can get... pull bolt back slowly till you can see the ejector finger appear, see where it is.

I don't mind having the headspace checked.  However, this is a factory built RRA upper and I think they will be contacted.  

I will let you know what they say.

Thanks

SBR7_11 has a point. I ran into him a Bulletfest and he told me about headspacing issues. Mine was'nt ejecting all the time. I thought it was bolt bounce or the empty case was hitting the upper and staying in there. I faced .012 off the barrel, polished and tweaked the extractor. It's been running fine since. He saved me alot of headaches.