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Posted: 12/23/2014 9:18:08 PM EDT
[#1]
I love the John Norrells Moly-Resin. Use it on all of my projects. If i had to guess,,,,, I could probably do at least 20??? lowers, maybe more. I use a cheap Hobby Lobby airbrush
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Posted: 12/23/2014 9:18:55 PM EDT
[#2]
I've done an upper and lower three times with an eight ounce bottle and still have enough to do it again I think.
I did a good job prepping the surface the first time I did it and it was tough as nails, but I didn't heat the part before spraying and it turned out very dark and glossy, the other two times I got in a hurry and didn't prep well and it didn't hold up. I should have known better. I finally tore it down and put the parts in the bin until I decided to use the upper and lower for another build, I decided to strip the paint before I send it off to be Cerakoated, the top two coats came off fine but that first one is still holding strong on the lower, I put a little more effort into the upper and finally got most of it off. |
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Posted: 12/23/2014 9:19:39 PM EDT
[#3]
I'm curious to this as well. I'm planning on refinishing the upper I get in my kit, and the new lower I have. I will not be bead blasting or anything, as I don't have the ability, so I hope it applies well over other finishes?
Planning on using a cheap airbrush kit from amazon to apply. |
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Posted: 12/23/2014 9:20:41 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm curious to this as well. I'm planning on refinishing the upper I get in my kit, and the new lower I have. I will not be bead blasting or anything, as I don't have the ability, so I hope it applies well over other finishes? Planning on using a cheap airbrush kit from amazon to apply. That's what I used, it also loves to stick to anodizing. |
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Posted: 12/23/2014 9:24:20 PM EDT
[#5]
Used it, love it. Re-sprayed an Oly upper and lower to match after making some cosmetic changes to the upper... did a 1911 with it too.
Definitely heat the part first. I didn't blast first, but made sure it was degreased thoroughly. I have used Duracoat, KG Guncote and other 'kote' ceramic variations....Moly Resin is by far the toughest- if you screw up, you WILL have to blast it off! Aircraft remover wouldn't even touch it. |
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Posted: 12/23/2014 9:31:35 PM EDT
[#6]
I always heat the metal parts so that once the "paint" hits it immediately flashes off.
It makes a very big difference in how it looks. I hang the parts in an oven along with a few 2 inch square chunks of steel. I place those pieces of hot steel inside a cooler to keep the temperature up. I lay the hot parts to be coated on those steel parts in the cooler and take them to the garage, coat one part at a time. it looks a lot nicer, when done hot. |
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Posted: 12/23/2014 9:33:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's what I used, it also loves to stick to anodizing. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'm curious to this as well. I'm planning on refinishing the upper I get in my kit, and the new lower I have. I will not be bead blasting or anything, as I don't have the ability, so I hope it applies well over other finishes? Planning on using a cheap airbrush kit from amazon to apply. That's what I used, it also loves to stick to anodizing. My new lower I'm not too concerned with, I'll strip all the oils off it with soap and water, dry, and then wipe down with acetone. The upper, being surplus, I'll probably have to soak, heat, clean to get all the oils out of it. I will heat the parts before painting as well. I bought a toaster oven from Wally mart just to do this. |
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Posted: 12/24/2014 12:17:38 AM EDT
[#8]
I love it, it's the only thing I use , since John Thomas retired from anodizing anyway.
I got a 100$ air brush kit ( compressor,gun,etc...) from harbor frieght that works Really well. One 30$ bottle of finish is enough to do at least 4 pairs of receivers and small parts. So compared to anodizing which would add A couple of hundred bucks to each project, norrells was to Cost effective not to do. I usually spray the part with carb cleaner, then a soap and water bath. Then fallow the basic directions on the bottle. |
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Posted: 12/24/2014 12:42:27 AM EDT
[#9]
Spend some time here Look for Stickmans Norrels tutoral. It'll give you all the info you need.
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Posted: 12/26/2014 1:04:34 AM EDT
[#10]
I couldnt find the tutorial......... I have some lowers that have been black anodized and sum that are bare aluminum, will sand blasting be required? I still have to get an air compressor, blast cabinet, and a gun (the whole setup) but itll be fun regardless :) also, can you use the same paint gun for the norrells and blasting (if required)? Ive read a few tutorials (some on this site, others off) and some swear that you need a 300$ spray gun and others say that a HF gets the job done just fine?
Also, what air compressor do you guys use? Not that it matters, but do you think itll stand up to an ultrasonic cleaning? All in all, i probably have 20-30 receivers (RBRD  ) that need to be coated
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Posted: 12/26/2014 11:36:53 AM EDT
[#11]
Just finished this 915 two days ago with Norrell's flat black. This gun has a steel slide and alloy frame. Cleaned, filed out tool marks, sanded the finish. Hair dryer to heat the parts. In the toaster oven at 300 degrees for one hour after spraying. I'm very happy with the outcome. Two tips that come to mind: Make sure the parts are suspended and not sitting on the oven wires and second if you're using a cheap air gun with disposable air tanks, use two air tanks and switch them out as you go. Otherwise they'll get cold and the airflow won't be consistent. I've heard you can put the tank in warm water as you spray, but I've not tried that....just switched tanks with success.
Good luck! |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 5:33:29 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryI've heard you can put the tank in warm water as you spray It works. I've used room temp water. Though I do change it out if the coating job is taking awhile. It tends to get a little cool. |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 5:37:46 PM EDT
[#13]
OP i can't answer your question specifically on quantities but I will say that it is a great product!
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Posted: 12/26/2014 6:07:17 PM EDT
[#14]
I use a hobby air compressor kit from harbor freight .
It come with with compressor , small gun and misc stuff. Kit runs 100$ or 150$, I can't remember but it's more than enough To shoot gun parts. No need to blast off anodizing. Norrels goes on over bare Metal or anodized metal just the same . |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 7:05:25 PM EDT
[#15]
It's taken me almost 10 years to finish off 2 bottles of moly resin.....although I'm not a "production" refinisher by any means.....
The air dry stuff will solidify and become unusable pretty quickly though.... The semi gloss black is kinda tough to get the gloss the way you want it.....but with proper pre-heating, you'll get 99% accuracy matching FN or HK finishes..... The grey/black comes out really well with a preheat of the parts, and placing the bottle of resin in warm water prior to spraying.....like others have said, when it appears to evaporate when it hits the metal it is a good thing.....it is impervious to wear or solvents when applied/baked the right way.....and the finished product makes Durakote/Cerakote/other rattle can crap look amateurish..... I use a cheapo Badger airbrush........spray a bit on some cardboard to get it right before putting on your metal..... Best product on the market IMHO |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 7:06:39 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just finished this 915 two days ago with Norrell's flat black. This gun has a steel slide and alloy frame. Cleaned, filed out tool marks, sanded the finish. Hair dryer to heat the parts. In the toaster oven at 300 degrees for one hour after spraying. I'm very happy with the outcome. Two tips that come to mind: Make sure the parts are suspended and not sitting on the oven wires and second if you're using a cheap air gun with disposable air tanks, use two air tanks and switch them out as you go. Otherwise they'll get cold and the airflow won't be consistent. I've heard you can put the tank in warm water as you spray, but I've not tried that....just switched tanks with success. http://i58.tinypic.com/2v8obx5.jpg Good luck! How did you rig up something to suspend the parts in your toaster oven?? Need some ideas.... 
Also, is carb/brake cleaning and soap and water enough on a upper and lower, or do I need to hit it with a very fine sandpaper to roughen up the anodizing?? |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 7:11:16 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How did you rig up something to suspend the parts in your toaster oven?? Need some ideas....
Also, is carb/brake cleaning and soap and water enough on a upper and lower, or do I need to hit it with a very fine sandpaper to roughen up the anodizing?? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just finished this 915 two days ago with Norrell's flat black. This gun has a steel slide and alloy frame. Cleaned, filed out tool marks, sanded the finish. Hair dryer to heat the parts. In the toaster oven at 300 degrees for one hour after spraying. I'm very happy with the outcome. Two tips that come to mind: Make sure the parts are suspended and not sitting on the oven wires and second if you're using a cheap air gun with disposable air tanks, use two air tanks and switch them out as you go. Otherwise they'll get cold and the airflow won't be consistent. I've heard you can put the tank in warm water as you spray, but I've not tried that....just switched tanks with success. http://i58.tinypic.com/2v8obx5.jpg Good luck! How did you rig up something to suspend the parts in your toaster oven?? Need some ideas....
Also, is carb/brake cleaning and soap and water enough on a upper and lower, or do I need to hit it with a very fine sandpaper to roughen up the anodizing?? I've always prepped with (diluted) simple green and fresh paper towels...carb and brake cleaners can leave some funky residue.......don't need to rough up the surface like you would with parkerizing...... Just get a roll of iron wire (from a real hardware store).....make hooks/triangular stands from it to suspend/elevate your parts while curing .........and make sure your wife won't be home for at least 3-4 hours after you turn the oven off and leave the door open .......
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Posted: 12/26/2014 7:20:53 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've always prepped with (diluted) simple green and fresh paper towels...carb and brake cleaners can leave some funky residue.......don't need to rough up the surface like you would with parkerizing...... Just get a roll of iron wire (from a real hardware store).....make hooks/triangular stands from it to suspend/elevate your parts while curing .........and make sure your wife won't be home for at least 3-4 hours after you turn the oven off and leave the door open .......Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just finished this 915 two days ago with Norrell's flat black. This gun has a steel slide and alloy frame. Cleaned, filed out tool marks, sanded the finish. Hair dryer to heat the parts. In the toaster oven at 300 degrees for one hour after spraying. I'm very happy with the outcome. Two tips that come to mind: Make sure the parts are suspended and not sitting on the oven wires and second if you're using a cheap air gun with disposable air tanks, use two air tanks and switch them out as you go. Otherwise they'll get cold and the airflow won't be consistent. I've heard you can put the tank in warm water as you spray, but I've not tried that....just switched tanks with success. http://i58.tinypic.com/2v8obx5.jpg Good luck! How did you rig up something to suspend the parts in your toaster oven?? Need some ideas....
Also, is carb/brake cleaning and soap and water enough on a upper and lower, or do I need to hit it with a very fine sandpaper to roughen up the anodizing?? I've always prepped with (diluted) simple green and fresh paper towels...carb and brake cleaners can leave some funky residue.......don't need to rough up the surface like you would with parkerizing...... Just get a roll of iron wire (from a real hardware store).....make hooks/triangular stands from it to suspend/elevate your parts while curing .........and make sure your wife won't be home for at least 3-4 hours after you turn the oven off and leave the door open .......I has a toaster oven that'll be used outside to bake them in 
I'll probably use carb cleaner first, than the soap and water, that should clean off any residue. |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 8:10:01 PM EDT
[#19]
I made this, kinda crude but it works. The metal price you can get at any hardware store,
And the hooks are cut up clothes hangers. 
Make sure you have good lighting where you spray your parts. |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 8:51:17 PM EDT
[#20]
For the first "initiation" trial, the victim is going to be this:
   
an old new model ruger blackhawk in 357 Mag. Im redoing it for a friend and am going to go the moly resin route since it gets used and abused a lot (clearly) what color should i use for this? also, im pretty sure (99.9%) that im going to have to blast it as there is a large amount of rust and pitting present. what shade of Moly resin should i get to have a close match (ive already got the grayish-black flat on order for the retro stuff) Also, this may be a stupid question but can i use the same gun for the application and abrasion? |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 8:55:37 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How did you rig up something to suspend the parts in your toaster oven?? Need some ideas....
Also, is carb/brake cleaning and soap and water enough on a upper and lower, or do I need to hit it with a very fine sandpaper to roughen up the anodizing?? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just finished this 915 two days ago with Norrell's flat black. This gun has a steel slide and alloy frame. Cleaned, filed out tool marks, sanded the finish. Hair dryer to heat the parts. In the toaster oven at 300 degrees for one hour after spraying. I'm very happy with the outcome. Two tips that come to mind: Make sure the parts are suspended and not sitting on the oven wires and second if you're using a cheap air gun with disposable air tanks, use two air tanks and switch them out as you go. Otherwise they'll get cold and the airflow won't be consistent. I've heard you can put the tank in warm water as you spray, but I've not tried that....just switched tanks with success. http://i58.tinypic.com/2v8obx5.jpg Good luck! How did you rig up something to suspend the parts in your toaster oven?? Need some ideas....
Also, is carb/brake cleaning and soap and water enough on a upper and lower, or do I need to hit it with a very fine sandpaper to roughen up the anodizing?? For this project I just used a coat hanger as a base for the frame. To prepare the surface I used hot water and dish soap with a stiff brush. I heated the parts in the oven for about 15 minutes to see if there was any grease oozing from anywhere. I only used sandpaper on the areas that needed to be cleaned up due to being dinged or deeply scratched. 
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Posted: 12/26/2014 9:18:18 PM EDT
[#22]
I've finished a couple retro ARs in the flat grayish black color and a 10/22 with the black. I followed Norrell's Procedures at http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/molyresin_tips.asp. I also have a 1911 I've been meaning to re-park and then spray with Moly Resin.
Moly Resi is really easy to use, IMO. Just follow the instructions. Make sure you are shooting clean, oil free parts. I pre-heat the parts, wash them in hot soapy water followed by a hot water rinse. After the parts are dry, I blast them with unchlorinated brake cleaner for good measure. I pre-heat the parts as Norrell suggests. I also like to spray the parts in front of a heat lamp. It helps me see what I'm doing and keeps the parts warm while I'm spraying them. I can cure a 20" M16A1 upper in the oven of our kitchen range (don't tell my wife ).
I generally don't abrasive blast anodized or parkerized parts, I did abrasive blast the stainless steel 10/22 barrel I finished, though, to ensure adhesion. brennon272, I wold blast that gun. You can get rubber plugs to keep the media out of the chambers and bore. If color doesn't matter, I'd use the flat grayish black Moly Resin. I asked Norrell's which color has the most molybdenum disulfide and, IIRC, they said it was the flat grayish black. The molybdenum disulfide is what gives Moly Resin many of its characteristics and benefits. You might also consider parkerizing that gun before applying Moly Resin. The two are supposed to work really well together. That's what I plan to do with the 1911 mentioned above, but I haven't gotten around to re-parking it. |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 9:27:56 PM EDT
[#23]
Here is the airbrush kit I'm thinking of buying from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Multi-purpose-Compressor-The/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419643450&sr=8-2&keywords=Airbrush |
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Posted: 12/27/2014 9:21:05 AM EDT
[#24]
I just ordered my bottle of flat greyish black for my retro build BTW. All I need now is the airbrush kit.
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Posted: 12/28/2014 10:46:52 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Used it, love it. Re-sprayed an Oly upper and lower to match after making some cosmetic changes to the upper... did a 1911 with it too. Definitely heat the part first. I didn't blast first, but made sure it was degreased thoroughly. I have used Duracoat, KG Guncote and other 'kote' ceramic variations....Moly Resin is by far the toughest- if you screw up, you WILL have to blast it off! Aircraft remover wouldn't even touch it. Just don't put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green. 
Don't ask. 
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Posted: 12/28/2014 11:00:14 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryHow did you rig up something to suspend the parts in your toaster oven?? Need some ideas.... I took one of the racks from the toaster oven and mounted it about an inch from the top of the inside. Gives me enough room to still get the wire hooks fastened fairly easy. |
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Posted: 12/28/2014 11:49:40 PM EDT
[#27]
No idea about 8oz bottles but if you buy the larger sizes you'll quickly realize that you have many things that NEED to get painted...
Prep is key. Clean well and heat the part first. ... BUT, if by chance you happen to get drunk one night and decide to smear some paint on your "project" thinking that you'll be able to wipe it of quickly afterwards... Don't. Even applied at room temperature from a microfiber cloth or sponge, IT WILL STICK. Sandpaper, steel pads, and nail polish remover slightly helped...
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Posted: 12/30/2014 8:39:13 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just don't put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green.
Don't ask.
OK I'll bite. Bubbles everywhere? Explosive diarrhea? DETAILS MAN!
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Posted: 1/13/2015 11:09:24 PM EDT
[#29]
So im about to order this..... is this the correct thing? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00943CQ4M/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1/185-2331714-5272312?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=17HBMA76P5QNM33872QD&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_i=B000BPWT9E and can i just hook this up to the simple pancake compressor i have? I
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Posted: 1/13/2015 11:25:32 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No idea about 8oz bottles but if you buy the larger sizes you'll quickly realize that you have many things that NEED to get painted... Prep is key. Clean well and heat the part first. ... BUT, if by chance you happen to get drunk one night and decide to smear some paint on your "project" thinking that you'll be able to wipe it of quickly afterwards... Don't. Even applied at room temperature from a microfiber cloth or sponge, IT WILL STICK. Sandpaper, steel pads, and nail polish remover slightly helped...
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr90/angelbeast6/sell/DSC_5955_zps8544a636.jpg http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr90/angelbeast6/sell/DSC_5957_zpse195c1a9.jpg I actually really like what you've got there. But I'm a bit sick that way. |
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Posted: 1/13/2015 11:41:11 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No idea about 8oz bottles but if you buy the larger sizes you'll quickly realize that you have many things that NEED to get painted... Prep is key. Clean well and heat the part first. ... BUT, if by chance you happen to get drunk one night and decide to smear some paint on your "project" thinking that you'll be able to wipe it of quickly afterwards... Don't. Even applied at room temperature from a microfiber cloth or sponge, IT WILL STICK. Sandpaper, steel pads, and nail polish remover slightly helped...
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr90/angelbeast6/sell/DSC_5955_zps8544a636.jpg http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr90/angelbeast6/sell/DSC_5957_zpse195c1a9.jpg Don't clean aluminum or stainless with steel pads unless you want to ruin it. |
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Posted: 1/14/2015 12:56:55 AM EDT
[#32]
OP That looks like a G2G rig but I've never used the stuff. Someone else can hopefully chime in on that.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't clean aluminum or stainless with steel pads unless you want to ruin it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
No idea about 8oz bottles but if you buy the larger sizes you'll quickly realize that you have many things that NEED to get painted... Prep is key. Clean well and heat the part first. ... BUT, if by chance you happen to get drunk one night and decide to smear some paint on your "project" thinking that you'll be able to wipe it of quickly afterwards... Don't. Even applied at room temperature from a microfiber cloth or sponge, IT WILL STICK. Sandpaper, steel pads, and nail polish remover slightly helped...
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr90/angelbeast6/sell/DSC_5955_zps8544a636.jpg http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr90/angelbeast6/sell/DSC_5957_zpse195c1a9.jpg Don't clean aluminum or stainless with steel pads unless you want to ruin it. What will it do? I've cleaned many a polished aluminum primary and secondary cover on 650cc Triumph motors with good old fashion SOS pads. Brake hobs too! Aluminum rims? Is it a metallurgical thing or just scratches it up? |
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Posted: 1/14/2015 1:03:07 AM EDT
[#33]
You don't want carbon steel micro-splinters to embed, it sets up corrosion cells in the metal.
Use green pads. |
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Posted: 1/14/2015 6:03:12 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You don't want carbon steel micro-splinters to embed, it sets up corrosion cells in the metal. Use green pads. Gotcha. Thanks. |
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Posted: 1/14/2015 6:33:25 PM EDT
[#35]
Overall I love MolyResin. That said it does work best with some heat to make it stick and some curing time (with a little more heat) after spraying. Ask me how I know. The Colt gray like color that I have used is a good match for old retro parts, if maybe a slight shade lighter. The finish it leaves feels more satin than anodizing does, and has a sort of plastic like feel if laid on thick. After it cures it looks and wears great. But it can still chip and can peel when abused even when applied right.
Just my .02 |
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