Quoted:
Dude, this is not a problem. Just build 8 AR's with auto sears. You can sell them for way more than the cost of the parts.
And if you can wind up the trial in a year, you can be out by 2093!
To the OP: Here is what that receiver needs for a retro build.
1. Measure the pinholes (they may not be to SP1 spec, but to something close. Since the gun was bubba'd in the first place, you need to be concerned about whether or no the walls are parellel.
2. See if you can get aluminum rod in this OD to match the holes' ID. If not, ream the holes with a straight reamer to a tight fit on the rod you can get, or (less optimum) turn down the rod to match the holes for a tight fit. It should be just too tight to really go in. the rod should be longer than the lug is wide to allow easy manipulation.
3. Use the hot-cold trick to make the parts fit, test fit and remove.
4. Prepare silver solder (not common electronic solder). You can get it and instructions from Brownell's of course. Heat the silver solder with a propane torch. Dunk the frozen pins in the solder and zang them into the heated lug before they can expand too much. Apply more heat, and if needed, more solder.
4. Cut the excess pins off. Grind any remaining protrusions flush.
5. You are now ready to set up and drill and ream new, milspec holes.
6. When completely drilled, and test fit on a lower, the upper needs to be re-anodized. You can strip it yourself with lye, per John Thomas (take extreme care with this caustic which can cause permanent irreversible eye damage if you get it in your eyes). You can also anodize it yourself, but anodizing is a fairly complicated process with special equipment needed for best results, and a lot of ways for things to go wrong. Most people send it to pros. I expect professional anodizing will cost you $50. The anodizing will cover both the lug and the rod but will probably not cover the solder.
As you can see, this is something that is only a good idea for an extremely rare upper.