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Posted: 5/2/2008 5:29:16 PM EDT
Well the goal is to build a semi-auto version of this.
I had no idea where to begin until about three weeks ago when I and a few others scored a set of handguards off the EE. It was my lucky day I thought. I'm going to build a M231. Since then, the enthusiasm shown for these handguards in the Garrison 633/DOE Sights Thread looks like it may be leading to some pretty nice reproductions being made! So over the past three weeks with the help of a Retro Forum regular and some dumb luck on my own here is what I've put together. -M231 Upper Receiver - New -Adapter Bracket for Wire Stock - New -Wire Stock - Looks Unused -Selector Cover - New -M231 Pistol Receiver Extension - Surplus, looks unused. Large OD, steel and heavy -Handguards - Used, good condition Since I have no experience with AR pistols, I have a lot more to learn about what carrier and buffer combo will work in this short of a tube. Don't know the exact overall length (approx 4 13/16"without cap) because I don't have the end cap that screws on the rear (see photo below). Even if I had the original drive springs and striker that go inside, they are not the ticket for a semi build. The part that I'm told is impossible to find is the large threaded gas block that allows the weapon to be attached to its firing port like this: Here's a close up: If a repro is the only way to go, does anybody have one to take measurments from? Are there any drawings/blueprints of these available? A limited run of these by someone would be a big hit! The more interest shown for these parts the more likely someone is to remake them. Anyone else working on or thinking about a M231 build? Suggestions, comments, advice? I'll keep you updated on my progress. |
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I think that is the support bracket for sliding wire stock. |
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No, the support is further back. Member Quiet has the selector cover FS in the EE last I checked. What that front base (can't really call it an FSB now can I? ) reminds me of in shape is a PVC adapter from one size to another, with a square thread wrapped around it. Of course, PVC would be the WRONG thing to try and make it out of, #1 it would melt after a few mags, #2 the fumes are toxic, however, in mocking one up as a model for a machine shop to follow, it might be a good start. The threads look like the hard part to me, but I've known some really good fabricators who could do it. There are guys out there who would spend a lot of time on it just because it was a puzzle, and something new from welding on a bumper say, and who would charge you reasonably, but there's a lot of hours there. If you could give them a mock-up that fits to start with, and some good pics, it's doable. I know damn well there's a pile of these in plastic bags laying on a shelf somewhere... The lack of sights is the only thing that turns me off on the project, as I LIKE sights. It would be very cool if you could get the ATF to sign off on an open bolt conversion, but it'd have to be a post dealer sample, built by a registered mfg, so I doubt it would ever happen - but there was one company offering a Class III open bolt conversion for LE not that long ago. The bolts even show up from time to time. Good luck with the build - I can't wait to see the finished product. IMO you've gone further than anyone else I've seen. |
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I really hope you're right about that!
There is still the hole in the carry handle for some type of optic. OEG maybe? |
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If I were going to make one of those FSB/port adapters...
I'd make it out of aluminum, and turn it to the size needed except for the "screw"... You could probably figure out the pitch, and maybe even thread it on a lathe...and pack at least one lunch while doing it... Or you could mount a used 4 1/2" Mikita grinder disk (with a rounded edge) in a tool post grinding attachment and grind it slowly...maybe using a big bolt (and nut in the lathe chuck) as a mandrel...screwing the bolt (with FPW FSB attached) in and grinding the big thread gradually... I know there is a shop near me that does things like this because I had to get quotes on turning a worm steering gear for a British sports car in years past...They mill the groove on a special mill/lathe that advances and rotates the work as the mill cutter cuts... Interesting project...for someone... |
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I know zero about these rifles, but I saw the term open bolt and I saw this on GunBroker. If it doesn't apply to your build I apoligize for wasting your time.
http://www.forthehunt.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=98611116 |
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Yes, that looks like the striker. From what I've read it replaces the hammer on the small end by sliding inside of the bolt carrier and striking the head of the firing pin. On the hollow large end it retains three springs fitted inside of each other that run the length of the receiver extension. The rubber recoil buffer/washer fits against the cap end of the receiver extension. edited to make the Link Live |
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20 years ago it would have been a piece of cake to build a M231. Now you rarely or never see the parts. Building a M231 with original parts would be extremely hard now.
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peepshowal,
Its really coming along great, congrats! That's an interesting gunbroker auction but I hadn't seen the 3 rubber washers before. Hmmm. Threaded gas blocks. Hmmm.... Nice score on the receiver extension. Did that turn up out west? |
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Thanks and yes it did. |
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I've been working up a solution to this for some time.
You are going to have to mill the left wall of your lower down to fit the sideplate correctly. A regular hammer/trigger will have to be used along with a regular bolt/carrier. You still should be able to use the nested springs and buffer of the original M231. |
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I think you can do it, but you will have to skip the collapsible stock, otherwise it becomes an SBR; without the wire stock, then you can registered as a pistol and you are G2G.
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Now wait, the buffer is the striker in the M231. How are you going to use it in conjuntion with a standard semi-auto carrier? |
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Peepshowal, you've got a great collection of parts there. I know I'll be watching for the front gas block every time I go to a gun show from now on. I have no plans on trying to do a build like this but, I'd love to see someone here do it and if I run across the gas block it's yours.
Doc |
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Excuse me but with that wire stock on there it would be considered a SBR, not a pistol, right? What does the state of CA have to say about that?
ETA: Sometimes it just pays to read the whole thread before posting, Black-Tiger beat me to it. |
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I've seen other weapons with folding, telescoping stocks frozen in the closed position pass the F troop's qualifications of a pistol. Maybe that's a possibility here. EDIT : But maybe he'll be using a 16" barrel... |
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That is a good start to the project.
It would be a great novelty item to have in the collection for sure! if you can work up the threaded fore end, it would be cool as shit to find the ball mount and to screw the M231 into for display. Great job so far! and I'm glad my picture inspired a project! ETA - as soon as I replace my scanner, I'm going to scan the negative at a high resolution to get more details out of that picture for every to use. |
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The buffer/striker would have to be cut back or a new one fabricated. |
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I applaud your efforts to build a seldom seen variant for your respective collections.
That being said, the M231 is the most worthless weapon we had in Mech Infantry. You can't hit sh#t with it, and most of the time they just stayed in the arms room. I think just about any local shop with a lathe can make you a gas block in less than 2 hours. Getting a print would help, but all you really need to know is the countersink diameter for the handguards, the two OD's, and the overall length. The thread pitch doesn't really matter (as long as it's cosmetically close) because you're not going be able to buy a surplus Bradley to screw it into. |
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A while back the same guy on gunbroker that has 231 parts also had NIW 231 bolt.
You might email him and see if he still does, if ya haven't already. Looks good, good luck with the build. Hal |
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Both you and hk45shooter bring up issues that I'll have to deal with to satisfy both Federal and California law. I've read that the barrel on the original is 15.6" long. If that is correct, then a pinned flash hider or a 16" should be easy and still look correct. Overall length of 26" for federal should be met even with stock callpsed. California ups the OAL to 30" to keep out of assault weapon territory. May have to fix the stock in the extended position or make it so it will not collapse to less than 30." The final California legal hoop to jump through requires using a "Bullet Button" mag release that allows the mag to be removed only with the push of a tool (bullet tip). Then legally one's rifle does not have a detachable mag and all the evil features can be added. Please do what you can to keep these laws from comming to a state near you. Doc Mike- That is very kind. Thank you! I need all the help I can get. CB1- Glad you're not upset I used a photo that is yours. Thank you. Would love to see more high resolution photos! |
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IMHO, you shouldn't be doing this project if you have to pin the stock in place. |
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As long as we're on the subject of M231s, here's a couple photos to ponder. I've had this gas block for a while and always thought it was for the port fire weapon. But it sure isn't the style with the large external thread. So is this an earlier or later model? Or is the threaded part a piece that goes over this part? Anybody know for sure?
http://photos.imageevent.com/ricklarson/gunparts/large/PICT0767.JPG http://photos.imageevent.com/ricklarson/gunparts/large/PICT0769.JPG http://photos.imageevent.com/ricklarson/gunparts/large/PICT0771.JPG |
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There were three different prototype designs (according to the book "Black Rifle") of firing port mounting points. Your pictures look like one of them. There is a picture of that mount on page 361 in the book "Black Rifle". |
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Yep - Sure looks like the middle pic. I can't take a good scan/pic to save my life, but maybe someone else can... |
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Me either, that's why I just referenced the book & it's page. |
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Thank you scottryan. I am not sure that the stock will have to be fixed to meet the minimum length. It will be close so perhaps a slightly longer barrel or muzzle device may be needed though that may not look correct. If the stock does need to be fixed (not pinned) I believe it can be done without altering or damaging any original part if that is your concern. Just a device or collar around the 2-position stock adjuster button that keeps it from being pushed. This could also be undone if one's state residency were to change. |
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Just use a HBAR 16" barrel....close enough and should be long enough.
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i was thinking a guy could use a modern gas block and make a slip over screw/front cap. just hold it in place with a set screw or 2 on the bottom out of sight.
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I have an idea for the gasblock. How about turning the shape of the gas block on a lathe, then finding a suitable spring to cut a couple of links out of for the appearance of the thread? You could just tack weld each end of the coil and blend it with a Dremel.
Just a thought. |
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Motorcycle rear shock/spring maybe??? About the right size, I think...You'd have to make the gas block out of steel to weld a spring to it though... |
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How about taking some 1/8" or so square stock, heat it up red hot, wrap it around a mandrel to cool, then tack a couple of turns of that on.
I'm just thinking out loud here. |
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Does anyone have a picture of all the M231 parts laid out? I remember reading it was a unique open bolt set up.
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This is along the lines of what I had in mind. If you could fabricate a close approximation of the original gas block from wood or plastic, then sand cast a copy. Simply slip it over a low profile gas block and pin or set screw in place. |
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Yes, the 231 is open bolt, full auto only. I have an electronic version of the RPSTL (parts catalog). I can pull the pages that show all the installations or just post the PDF file. I am a test engineer for BAE Systems, the designers/builders of the Bradley Fighting Vehicle. Since the FPW has all but been eliminated from the Bradley, we only have 1 FPW left in our arsenal for fit-ups. We have an extremely difficult time getting replacement parts for this 1 remaining gun. Even Colt's doesn't have or make parts for it any more. All the piece-part drawings are still available from Colt's. |
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Russ,
If you could take photos/measurements of the M231 gas block you would be a hero around here! |
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If I was to hazard a guess, looks like that version may have been retained with a spring loaded corss pin through the slot on top, or maybe it was inserted at 90 degrees and then rotated vertical, knind of like a keyway. |
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Wow! That's great! Please post the PDF file. Thanks |
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i would think you would have to make the hand guard cap on a cnc mill not a lathe. on the lathe you could certainly turn a thread but it would be just that.. a thread. you would still have all of the material between the threads.
on a cnc mill you could set it up to machine the thread(which doesnt have to function) and remove the material between the threads. make sense? well to me it does lol. |
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No problem. Just ship that FPW to one of our more talented machinists for a couple weeks and we'll get you all the spare parts you need! Seriously though, specs on the part being discussed would really make you a hero. Just out of curiosity - what replaced the FPW? IIRC it was just flip-open ports? I bet the ball mechanism gets pretty damn gritty and hard to move in the desert sand... |
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Makes sense to me - the wide, square cut of the 'valleys' were obviously done with CNC. OTOH,I was a robotics major in the early '80s and remember when CNC was 'the next great thing' Now it's common. So common that the knowledge of how to set-up an Non-CNC machine is becoming extinct... Alternately, I like the idea about square stock being heated and wrapped around it. pretty easy to do with a forge. (My dad's a blacksmith) But if it were spot welded in place, you'd need a sharp carbide bit and a dremel to remove the weld material so it looked right. No biggy, just more work. Once we get the OD specs, someone should check Graingers or McMaster-Carr for weld-on pipe adapters. I'm guessing a 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 to 2" adaptor might work. When I get into work next week I'll check Grainger, see what they have. |
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