I am interested in eliminating as much muzzle-disturbance as possible in a 20" AR-15A2. I want to be able to fire double-taps and have them land as close togather as I am steady.  Basically, what I am looking for is elimination of muzzle rise or torque.

I want to do this without killing my ears. I am not so much worried about side-blast as I do not normally go to crowded ranges. However, I would like the sound/concussion signature to be no-more than uncompensated from the perspective of me, the shooter. So far here are 2 breaks that I do not know much about, but that appeal to me. Advice? Suggestions?

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Miculek Compensator
Six opposing side ports direct gases outward to reduce muzzle jump. Includes jam nut for indexing.  1/2 x 28 standard AR15 thread.  
Our Price: $40.00

PRI QC Comp 5.56 - Black
The Quiet Control Brake/Compensator has a system of ports to reduce the recoil, the muzzle climb and the noise heard by the shooter.  Each comp is machined from solid stainless steel 304 bar stock for greater heat resistance and burn out. Finish is bead blasted stainless that has benn coated black. Thread is standard AR15/M15 1/2X28 TPI. Diameter is .95 inch and length is 2.05 inches long.  
Our Price: $80.00

I run a Miculek brake on my 18" rifle length gas system. The dot only moves very slightly, depending on stance, the more I square up to the target them more stable it is.  I can run .14 splits accurately out to about 25 yard with the brake.

Quoted: I run a Miculek brake on my 18" rifle length gas system. The dot only moves very slightly, depending on stance, the more I square up to the target them more stable it is.  I can run .14 splits accurately out to about 25 yard with the brake.

Being as I have not done 3-gun or run against a timer, can you put it in laymans terms for me? Here is what I am comparing things to: At 10-yards with my Dad's Bushmaster 16" with some funky off-brand brake on it, I can fire 2 rounds as fast as I can pull the trigger and they will be 1-3" apart on target. Here is a video of me shooting a bag of flour.

Take into account, I am more of a range-shooter than a tactical shooter, so this is blazing fast for me, lol.

Will I be able to do equal, or better with the Miculek brake? Clarks is just a short drive from me, so that would rock.

Here is the vid detailing the performance I am going to compare my rifle to, distance is 8-10 yards.
Video


(5 shots in 2.5 seconds, the group on the paper of the bag was about 3")  Can I mirror or beat this using the Miculek on a 20" rifle?

Also, out of curiosity, if I were to try this at 100 yards with your setup using the Miculik, would the results have me on a 12x24" target, or would the first shot be the only one on paper? What I am getting at, is that I want to be able to train the sights on the target at 100y and pull the trigger reasonably as fast as I can without jerking the rifle off-target and land my rounds where I am pointing.

What was the time of your splits before the brake? How bad is the blast from your standpoint as the shooter compared to no-brake? Have you shot other brakes and can you compare them as better or worse than the Miculek?

THANKS!

Quoted: Quoted: I run a Miculek brake on my 18" rifle length gas system. The dot only moves very slightly, depending on stance, the more I square up to the target them more stable it is.  I can run .14 splits accurately out to about 25 yard with the brake. Being as I have not done 3-gun or run against a timer, can you put it in laymans terms for me? Here is what I am comparing things to: At 10-yards with my Dad's Bushmaster 16" with some funky off-brand brake on it, I can fire 2 rounds as fast as I can pull the trigger and they will be 1-3" apart on target. Here is a video of me shooting a bag of flour. Take into account, I am more of a range-shooter than a tactical shooter, so this is blazing fast for me, lol. Will I be able to do equal, or better with the Miculek brake? Clarks is just a short drive from me, so that would rock. Here is the vid detailing the performance I am going to compare my rifle to, distance is 8-10 yards. Video (5 shots in 2.5 seconds, the group on the paper of the bag was about 3")  Can I mirror or beat this using the Miculek on a 20" rifle? Also, out of curiosity, if I were to try this at 100 yards with your setup using the Miculik, would the results have me on a 12x24" target, or would the first shot be the only one on paper? What I am getting at, is that I want to be able to train the sights on the target at 100y and pull the trigger reasonably as fast as I can without jerking the rifle off-target and land my rounds where I am pointing. What was the time of your splits before the brake? How bad is the blast from your standpoint as the shooter compared to no-brake? Have you shot other brakes and can you compare them as better or worse than the Miculek? THANKS!

Shooting fast and accurate is going to come down to stance and recoil management.  The brake is just a small percentage of it.  what the brake really helps me is when I am shooting on the move or in a funny position.  You won't suddenly be able to pull faster splits, the rifle might move less but if you blink when you shoot then you will not be able to see the difference.  You need to see each shot as a separate sight picture, never loosing sight of the dot or front blade.  Once you see where the dot goes during recoil, you can start to change stance, pressure or grip to change the way the dot tracks, once you see faster, then you can start to shoot faster while being accurate, otherwise you are just pulling the trigger and hoping for the best.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I run a Miculek brake on my 18" rifle length gas system. The dot only moves very slightly, depending on stance, the more I square up to the target them more stable it is.  I can run .14 splits accurately out to about 25 yard with the brake. Being as I have not done 3-gun or run against a timer, can you put it in laymans terms for me? Here is what I am comparing things to: At 10-yards with my Dad's Bushmaster 16" with some funky off-brand brake on it, I can fire 2 rounds as fast as I can pull the trigger and they will be 1-3" apart on target. Here is a video of me shooting a bag of flour. Take into account, I am more of a range-shooter than a tactical shooter, so this is blazing fast for me, lol. Will I be able to do equal, or better with the Miculek brake? Clarks is just a short drive from me, so that would rock. Here is the vid detailing the performance I am going to compare my rifle to, distance is 8-10 yards. Video (5 shots in 2.5 seconds, the group on the paper of the bag was about 3")  Can I mirror or beat this using the Miculek on a 20" rifle? Also, out of curiosity, if I were to try this at 100 yards with your setup using the Miculik, would the results have me on a 12x24" target, or would the first shot be the only one on paper? What I am getting at, is that I want to be able to train the sights on the target at 100y and pull the trigger reasonably as fast as I can without jerking the rifle off-target and land my rounds where I am pointing. What was the time of your splits before the brake? How bad is the blast from your standpoint as the shooter compared to no-brake? Have you shot other brakes and can you compare them as better or worse than the Miculek? THANKS! Shooting fast and accurate is going to come down to stance and recoil management.  The brake is just a small percentage of it.  what the brake really helps me is when I am shooting on the move or in a funny position.  You won't suddenly be able to pull faster splits, the rifle might move less but if you blink when you shoot then you will not be able to see the difference.  You need to see each shot as a separate sight picture, never loosing sight of the dot or front blade.  Once you see where the dot goes during recoil, you can start to change stance, pressure or grip to change the way the dot tracks, once you see faster, then you can start to shoot faster while being accurate, otherwise you are just pulling the trigger and hoping for the best.

I purchased a FSC556 btw.

To be honest, I am not the greatest free-hand shooter (I like the bench or seated positions, ect.).

However, the vid of me shooting with the bushmaster would have been a LOT! different had I used the HBAR6601 b/c of the lack of a comp. It really helped me, my stance was okay. Nothing great, but I wasn't leaning back with a chicken wing. When I tried the same with the HBAR6601 (which has another 4" of barrel to help out no less), the results were that I was off-paper after shot 2, which was sometimes off-paper itself. Nowhere near the neat 5-shot 3" group on that bag of flour.

i am considering a levang or miculek comp myself. i have been told that the levang is very quiet for the shooters perspective, but not necessarily much better on the recoil management. i am going to buy one and just try it out cause it looks kind of cool and if it is quieter on my ears that is a plus. plus it is only $30-40 dollars so if it doesn't work all that great, i can chalk it up to experience.

but i still think i am going to get a miculek comp to try out too. figure if it works for jerry, it should work for me as well.

Quoted: i am considering a levang or miculek comp myself. i have been told that the levang is very quiet for the shooters perspective, but not necessarily much better on the recoil management. i am going to buy one and just try it out cause it looks kind of cool and if it is quieter on my ears that is a plus. plus it is only $30-40 dollars so if it doesn't work all that great, i can chalk it up to experience. but i still think i am going to get a miculek comp to try out too. figure if it works for jerry, it should work for me as well.

I will let you know how my FSC556 works, another guy on TOS is going to test it with the proper equipment for flash supression as well as sound 1 meter to the left, and from the shooter's position.