When a regular mil spec trigger is completely brpken in do they feel really nice or what? I am new to the AR. I bought a Rock River Arms Entry Tactical AR about 4 months ago.

It came with the NAtional MAtch two stage trigger in it. After about 2 months (maybe 800 rounds and 200 dry fires w/ snap caps)the trigger went downhill and went from a crisp 2 stage to a terrible 1 stage. It had the long pull with no hint as to when it would release the hammer. I sent it back and they sent me a new one.

So before I shipped the NM trigger to RRA I bought a regular trigger form them so my rifle would still work. It is a lot harder to pull and actually affected my accuracy negatively. It seems to be getting better since I have about 300 rounds on it but I was just wondering after like 1000 rounds do these triggers get really nice or should I just yank it out and put the NM back in?

I actually like the short quick trigger pull just not the resistance of the Milspec trigger. I also dont want to put any lighter springs in it because I am all about reliability. Any input would be helpful.

I don't think I have ever referred to, or heard a stock mil-spec trigger referred to as "nice".  Sure it might loosen up a little.

If I were you, I'd put the NM trigger group back in your lower when you get it back.....I mean, you said yourself, you could notice an accuracy change


just my 2 cents

If you are not using this gun for “serious things” I would recommend getting a single stage match trigger like the JP or AS. But you will have to spend $150-250$. I really like my JP trigger and never had any problems with it.

BE

Walli

Quoted: When a regular mil spec trigger is completely brpken in do they feel really nice or what? I am new to the AR. I bought a Rock River Arms Entry Tactical AR about 4 months ago. It came with the NAtional MAtch two stage trigger in it. After about 2 months (maybe 800 rounds and 200 dry fires w/ snap caps)the trigger went downhill and went from a crisp 2 stage to a terrible 1 stage. It had the long pull with no hint as to when it would release the hammer. I sent it back and they sent me a new one. So before I shipped the NM trigger to RRA I bought a regular trigger form them so my rifle would still work. It is a lot harder to pull and actually affected my accuracy negatively. It seems to be getting better since I have about 300 rounds on it but I was just wondering after like 1000 rounds do these triggers get really nice or should I just yank it out and put the NM back in? I actually like the short quick trigger pull just not the resistance of the Milspec trigger. I also dont want to put any lighter springs in it because I am all about reliability. Any input would be helpful.

I am in the same boat as you so to speak.
I've put CLP on the sear surfaces of the standard single stage FCG and it has removed the gritty feel. After doing the 1000+ rd break-in there's some noticeable "creep" but nothing bad. Pull is about 7-8 lb though.

I am not fond of 2-stage triggers and would prefer a light and short single stage trigger that doesn't use set-screws or any fancy adjustments, but doesn't cost 6 times as much as a regular stock FCG. I have a feeling there's no such thing. I would just practice with the stock single stage FCG. Just squeeze it in 1 continous motion.

Your stock trigger might wear in and smooth up, but it won't get significantly lighter unless you reduce the springs.  

If you're OK with set screws, the JP trigger is nice and allows pretravel and overtravel adjustments.  I have one, along with their light hammer, and even with their reduced-power springs have never had it not fire any .223/5.56 ammo, including mil ammo like XM193 or South African M193 surplus.  I believe I've read of people having issues with the light springs and a normal weight hammer though.  For a little more insurance go with their Service Rifle Spring kit, which should have a stronger hammer spring.  The JP trigger works with the regular hammer and you can cut the tail off the back of your stock one to reduce the weight if you don't want to pay for theirs.

The Accuracy Speaks trigger is recommended here by quite a few people as an improvement over the stock trigger without any adjustment screws.  

Or you could check out the 15-minute trigger job for instructions on bending the springs.  You could try bending the hammer spring legs just a little to drop the weight, but less than going to a full reduced-power set.

Quoted: I am not fond of 2-stage triggers and would prefer a light and short single stage trigger that doesn't use set-screws or any fancy adjustments, but doesn't cost 6 times as much as a regular stock FCG. I have a feeling there's no such thing. I would just practice with the stock single stage FCG. Just squeeze it in 1 continous motion.

Maybe consider a Chip McCormick unit once they get back on the market. I like mine.

RRA sells a lot of garbage parts... If I were you, I would contact them to get a free replacement, and don't forget to make them pay for all shipping costs to and from... After you receive the new replacement, sell the trigger as "new" then use the funds towards a dependable quality trigger...

Jard makes a nice trigger with instructions that make it easy to set-up.  Gives a nice single stage pull.  Like yourself I don't care for 2 stage triggers.  I know that you can find them at Brownells.com.  

Yeah the trigger did get nice after about 500 rounds. I do have the 2 stage in my gun now but I still like the feeling of the milspec trigger. Time will tell , but it is nice to have options.

Klassik; if you pick-up some "moly-slide" grease (Bushmaster has it on their website) and use it on just the engagement surfaces of your trigger & hammer, you will get a very noticeable improvement in feel and resistance. You can leave the FCG in place and use a Q-tip to remove any oil or dirt from the engagement surfaces, then  rip-off the cotton swab end of the Q-tip and dab the paper stick end into the moly grease then apply it to the trigger and hammer engagement surfaces. Don't go crazy with it, a little will do just fine. It's real black and gets all over everything if you're not careful. It will help make a nice trigger into a real sweet trigger. Breakfree CLP will clean it off the trigger parts using a Q-tip, so it's not permanent - you can remove it if desired.

I like to very lightly stone the engagement surfaces on the hammer and trigger, then keep it well lubed with either moly paste or Tetra paste, and dry fire as often as possible.  After a while your trigger pull will be nice and smooth.  

Quoted: RRA sells a lot of garbage parts... If I were you, I would contact them to get a free replacement, and don't forget to make them pay for all shipping costs to and from... After you receive the new replacement, sell the trigger as "new" then use the funds towards a dependable quality trigger...

Your constant RRA-trolling is getting old.

Quoted: Quoted: RRA sells a lot of garbage parts... If I were you, I would contact them to get a free replacement, and don't forget to make them pay for all shipping costs to and from... After you receive the new replacement, sell the trigger as "new" then use the funds towards a dependable quality trigger... Your constant RRA-trolling is getting old.

Your a couple weeks late there wizzon... Glad to see your up on your reading though...

Well, forgive me if I missed it the first time around. I've been on the board less in the past couple weeks because of stuff going on on my end.

I'm just pointing out that you know damn well that RRA doesn't sell "a lot of garbage parts". Everyone puts out lemons, as far as rifles go, and Colt is no different. I haven't had any trouble with the RRA triggers I've had (3 NM and 3 std ones) and there are plenty more that haven't had any problems either.

Shit happens. If it's manmade, it's gonna break or wear out or go tits up sooner or later.

WIZZO

1500 rounds does a "mil-spec" trigger good.  A lot smoother and lighter...

TS