Anyone know where I can pick up an ejection port cover for my Colt SP1 AR15? It takes the same type as the M16A1. The latch and spring are held in the cover by a small c-clip. According to my old owner's manual, the colt part number was 62112. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, JimfromBend

Well I found one!! If anyone else needs something like this there's a place in Arizona called Specialized Armament Warehouse (480) 940 7397. Thanks, JimfromBend

s.a.w. sells colt parts.


if you would have search it, it would have probably led you to the colt industry forum in which all this info is there.

Last I knew SAW Sales has a $50 minimum order.  For old USGI/Colt's parts a pretty much stick with the EE.

Quoted: Last I knew SAW Sales has a $50 minimum order.  For old USGI/Colt's parts a pretty much stick with the EE.

Roger on that.  Of course, using one of the early covers on an SP1 wil give you a permanent imprint of the rails on the thing, to "beautify" your lower, and of course, the finish will wear off the ribs on the cover,  which is precisely why I put an A2 cover on my SP1 about 5 years ago.

But anything for authenticity, huh?

An A2 cover on a SP1, you are a barbarian!

I put an A2 cover on my retro carbine. Didn't want to mar up the finish on my lower, just in case I ever had the urge to restore it to it's front heavy, pig of a safe queen 20" HBAR original form again.

Quoted: I put an A2 cover on my retro carbine. Didn't want to mar up the finish on my lower, just in case I ever had the urge to restore it to it's front heavy, pig of a safe queen 20" HBAR original form again.

Hey Greg,
                   Tell me about the problem with the SP1 and M16A1 covers that mar the finish on a lower. I wasn't aware of that taking place and now you've got me worried .

You may remember that I removed the A2 cover that somehow came on that mil-surp M16A1 upper (the one I used to build my A1 clone last year with a PWA lower) and retrofitted the A1 cover that Gil gave me when we were shooting fun guns over at his place. Yeah, anything for authenticity!

So far, nothing marred up, at least not yet  

So what did I do wrong?  

Later,
           Al

Hey Al,

As you know the A2 door has a wedge shaped block that contacts the bottom edge of the upper receiver. The A1/SP1 door has a flat block that comes in contact with the lower receiver. On a fenceless SP1 eventually you'll get a little square rub mark on the side of the mag well. I imagine the finish will show increased wear along the length of the fence top on a receiver with the top fence. I'll find out eventually as I left the original door on my A.F. M16A-nothing I built using a Stag lower. But right now I doubt I have 500 rds through it.

Up for some shooting when the weather straightens out?

Greg,
         Funny, I never paid attention to the little rub marks on either of my stock SP1 lowers, but after I read your post I looked and there they were! Both of them have been around for quite a few years and since I never noticed the marks before I'm sure not going to worry about them now. There are no marks visible on the pivot pin detent boss of the PWA A1 lower that I hung the M16A1 upper on, but it's still relatively low-milage at this point.

I guess that if a guy was going to be real anal about it he could put a small square of thick vinyl electrical tape over the bumper (I'll call it that for lack of a better term) on the cover to take care of the problem but I think that I'll pass .

Yeah, I'm ready to burn up some ammo! It looks like the weather is getting ready to break and spring is just around the corner - but I also remember some of the heaviest blizzards hit us in March. But I'm still anxious to get out there and do it. Fire me an e-mail and let's set something up. My schedule is real flexible for the forseeable future .

Regards,
                   Al

Thre's no problem about the marks I referred to when using  any A1 or A2 profile lower.  The rail stops the open dust cover, and the worst thing that happens is that you get a small wear line on the center projection of the cover. Of course, you do have to close the dust cover on the early type, before closing the upper and lower. or you risk a mangled dust cover, but that's a different issue. (It's also the reason that the current type dust cover was created. GI armorers were tired of replacing mangled dust covers.)

No, it's only the flat side SP1s and 2s  that have the problem that I referred to above.  And i'm sorry, If you've had an SP1 for a number of years, and fired more than 2-300 rounds thru it, you are going to see, and hate, the damned outline on the lower. Mine has had that line for 25+years, and it gets worse and worse as the cover keeps smacking that flat side lower. At least w/the A2 type cover, mine won't get any worse than it is.

No, it's only the flat side SP1s and 2s that have the problem that I referred to above. And i'm sorry, If you've had an SP1 for a number of years, and fired more than 2-300 rounds thru it, you are going to see, and hate, the damned outline on the lower. Mine has had that line for 25+years, and it gets worse and worse as the cover keeps smacking that flat side lower. At least w/the A2 type cover, mine won't get any worse than it is.

Yep. I had a SP1 25 yrs ago and it didn't take long for the mark to show up. Never really liked it, but you had to live with it.

Last year I added an M16 upper to my slab side Sporter Match HBAR and it took only about those 200~300 rounds for a mark to start showing up. So when I used that lower for my retro-style carbine I added an A2 door to halt that mark. Of course it'll pick up other marks from usage....

Quoted: An A2 cover on a SP1, you are a barbarian!

Gee, you must be talking to my wife.

But hey, that SP1 carbine was turned into a class3 XM177E2 clone over 25 years ago, so how much more nonoriginal could an A2 dust cover make it?