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Posted: 7/16/2005 9:52:40 PM EDT
What's good for a temporary finish and a permanent finish?  I'm looking to paint these parts OD green or whatever matches closest to TANGO DOWN OD GREEN.  Thanks.
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 10:25:16 PM EDT
[#1]
krylon
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 10:26:39 PM EDT
[#2]
You're kidding, right?  I heard that Krylon sucks for this application.
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 10:33:07 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
temporary and permanent finish? .



?
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 10:43:16 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
You're kidding, right?  I heard that Krylon sucks for this application.




he asked for permanent and temporary.



but it worked for me and if it wears away thats fine too, imo that gives more character.



Link Posted: 7/17/2005 3:21:22 AM EDT
[#5]
I've never tried it, but I think Duracoat or Alumahyde will work since neither one requires you to bake the parts.

Duracoat
Alumahyde II
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 3:33:38 AM EDT
[#6]
Krylon rulz!!

It can be removed with the right chemicals and elbow grease.

I like it because it is cheap, adds character, FLAVA , breaks up the outline, etc....

From what I hear Bowflage can be removed a bit easier, but for the cost and ease of supply I went with Krylon.

I seriously doubt that I will remove it, had it on my AR for about 2 years.  The rub marks are the best part!
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 4:58:42 AM EDT
[#7]
Urban,


         Any paint is going to wear with time.....That being said the Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II OD Green is closer to a "sage green" than it is to OD green.

          The Aluma-Hyde II lasts longer than Krylon, doesn't chip like krylon, and seems to be an all around better finish.  The Aluma-Hyde II is also the closest match for Tango Down's green.


Link Posted: 7/17/2005 5:53:59 AM EDT
[#8]

Bowflage will come off almost too easily.  Get some solvent or gunoil on it and it starts to come off.

The new Krylon Fusion should be pretty good for the furniture.  
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 6:17:06 AM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:

          The Aluma-Hyde II lasts longer than Krylon, doesn't chip like krylon, and seems to be an all around better finish.  The Aluma-Hyde II is also the closest match for Tango Down's green.





Agreed.  AHII is probably your best choice, but you might as well paint the whole thing to get it all to match



(Mag is different color paint )

Link Posted: 7/17/2005 6:17:35 AM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:


The new Krylon Fusion should be pretty good for the furniture.  





Good idea, the only problem is Krylon doesn't make the Fusion line of paints in camo colors, and when I talked to a Krylon rep a few months ago, they have no plans to offer the Fusion in camo colors.



Link Posted: 7/17/2005 6:46:36 AM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:

The new Krylon Fusion should be pretty good for the furniture.  



I have used Krylon Fusion, and been underwhelmed.
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 6:51:42 AM EDT
[#12]
Norrells has always worked out fine for a finish that will not be removed (plastics and metals).


Link Posted: 7/17/2005 5:18:11 PM EDT
[#13]
Thanks for the information, fellas.  I think I'm going with Stickman on this one.

One last thing:  Do you have to HEAT and CURE  the parts if one is going to apply ALUMAHYDE?
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 5:27:21 PM EDT
[#14]
Alumahyde doesn't require any heat.  It is my preferred finish for plastic parts.  I use Moly Resin exclusively for metal parts and some plastic parts that I know won't be affected by the heat.
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 5:30:02 PM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:
Alumahyde doesn't require any heat.  It is my preferred finish for plastic parts.  I use Moly Resin exclusively for metal parts and some plastic parts that I know won't be affected by the heat.



Thanks for the info.
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 5:41:38 PM EDT
[#16]
i prefer Krylon. it has a very flat/matt finish. i just finished painting entire rifle with Alumahyde and didn't like it because it is a little shiney. it came off easily with brake cleaner. going to repaint it with krylon.
Link Posted: 8/22/2005 10:24:11 PM EDT
[#17]
Lauer Duracoat is my choice for permanent.

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