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I think NJ has their own ban. WIZZO |
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I know |
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BTW that is one cool setup. I'm thinking about going with something similar from Denny. Any reason you went with the 9.0 instead of a 12.0 or 13.2 to extend over the Larue gas block?
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many thanks.
highly recommended.
a) weight. b) show off that pretty gas block. c) i had to choose one. d) i haven't burned myself yet on the KISS carbine's gas block. seriously, though -- as you may be aware, the Larue gas block allows you to remove the Larue forearm any time you want. just slide it off, passes right over the gas block. so i figure that if one sunday morning i wake up and think to myself, "ya know, i shoulda got the 12in larue"... well, i just have to pick up the phone and call one of the fine vendors listed above. no fuss, no muss. so that flexibility is one thing to consider with the Larue setup. i could always use the 9.0" on my KISS carbine. of course that would make it un-KISS, and i'd have to get another KISS type. i'm starting to see how infectious this EBR disease really is. ar-jedi |
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You got that right. There is something to be said about going with the low profile gas block with a FF tube. Not having to remove the FSB again is a major plus, although the second time around is not nearly as bad. Nothing wrong with the way you have it set up, but you could always experiment later. |
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This was an interesting build. NJ law does not allow threaded barrels and all Recons are threaded 1/2X28. The solution was to buy a thread protector from ADCO and carefully machine it to match the barrel contour. It was then pinned and welded and the barrel was given a final profile and re-crowned.
The effect is virtually seamless and made the barrel complient for NJ state law. Congrats on the final parts of the build and the finished rifle looks great+ and the selction of components is top rate. She's a beauty and I am happy to have participated. I will add these beautiful pics in my thread. Thanks for permission to use the pictures. Denny |
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fixed that for you!
thanks for the kind words. i'll let you know very soon if the performance matches the looks. the last thing i wanted out of this is an "all show / no go" rifle. regards, ar-jedi |
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what exactly is this "done" that you speak of? the AR15.COM official motto: get both(tm) the AR15.COM official backup motto: it's never done(tm). ar-jedi |
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So that's one of your Recon barrels Denny? It's "fatter" (in a good way) than I thought they were. What kind of chamber do you have in 'em? Wylde or match?
Thanks Rich |
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rich, i'm not denny but i did buy one of his barrels... see all the info here: ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=12&t=212585 ps: from item #9 in the description at the link above, chamber is wylde. ar-jedi |
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sweet! What do you think of that mr/t? I've been dying to get one and put it on my sam-r clone...
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yep -- just in case i have to double tap a few of the zombies. ar-jedi ps: now look left, over there under my member name. see that? have some pity, will ya? i'm trying my best over here. |
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damn, forgot to ask you guys -- suggestions for a sling for this rifle? i'm thinking 2 pt. i wish that someone made the IDF sling in desert tan. any ideas? what do "real" RECCE rifles wear? thanks ar-jedi |
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anyone? ar-jedi |
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last weekend took some inexpensive WWB 55gr'ers out for a spin, and hung up a half dozen golf balls at 100yds. kept having to walk out and hang another six up!!! once doped, i could hit three or four in a row -- each just a few seconds apart. DENNY -- JOB WELL DONE SIR!!! next stop, the 300yd line. ar-jedi |
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Slightly off topic, how do you hang the golf balls? That seems like a cool way to get some reactive targets!!!! Thanks...
-sc |
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i made a little V-block clamp jig thing out of some scrap 1x3 pine, which holds a golf ball so it doesn't wander out from under my drill press. it's extremely difficult to drill a hole in a golf ball without a jig of some type. it doesn't have to be complicated, just enough to apply a little pressure to keep the ball from spinning and from running up the drill bit. once you have a little jig made up, you can do one of two things: (a) bore a ~1/8" dia hole about 1/3 of the way through the golf ball, and then insert a 1-1/4" drywall screw into the hole. twist it in so the head is not quite flush. now you can use some picture hanger wire or string to suspend the ball. i have had the best luck with "toothy critter wire", which is sold around here (i'm on the atlantic ocean) as a wire leader for game fishing. basically it comes on reels for use as a 10' leader behind the hook when trolling for larger fish with sharp teeth, like bluefish, striper, or shark. this stuff is really strong and tough, and holds the balls the best. (b) bore the hole all the way through, and thread the string or wire through the ball and tie it back around at the top. for various reasons, (a) holds the balls better (i.e. they stay up longer). but in either case you can have one-shot "kills" where the ball is gone completely from the mount with one trigger pull. on the other hand there have been occasions where i have nailed the same ball about 5-6 times before it surrenders. my friend also uses (c): as in (a), drill the same 1/8" diameter hole 1/3 of the way through the ball, and then go get some 1/8" diameter dowels from home depot. now you can stand the ball anywhere from about 3" to 30" off of the ground just by snapping the dowel off, pushing it into the ground, and plopping the ball on top. using this method, your targets will get lower as the day wears on. :) my buddy showed up the other day with lots of drilled balls, accompanied by a package of dozens of 16" wooden shish-ka-bob skewers that he found at the dollar store. so for $1 and some drill press time he had a whole bunch of golf ball targets. for us recreational shooters, busting golf balls at 50/100/150/200yds is all the relaxation we need. ar-jedi |
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Cool, thanks. Some of the locals here use a strip of wood, with little holes drilled in them for a dozen or so lollipops, They mount this on some PVC pipe legs and shoot the lollipops. I've seen young kids go 12 for 12 at 50 yards with .22's with iron sights with these rigs. I might rig something like this up to because the lollipops are bio degradable targets.
-sc |
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Plus it prevents tooth decay! When I was a kid I ate the candy and shot the oil cans |
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anyone have any other good ideas about bio-degradable targets? thanks, ar-jedi |
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Necco wafers, paintballs, and if you're really ambitious---smarties. Another fun game (I've played it with rimfires, but never a centerfire) is "snipe the fly". Just put a jelly smear on the target and wait. As they come in, see if you can zap 'em.
Rich |
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anyone? ar-jedi |
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A 2-point sling is fine for most everything you do with the rifle. A single point sling will also work fine, but if you are one of the people who don't want scratches on their guns, I'd say the 2-point sling will work out better for you. A rifle hung from a single point sling will bump around, unless you use one hand to support it. A rifle hung from a 2-point sling will not do this.
The one benefit from the single point sling is that you can just drop your rifle out of your hand and you can transition to your sidearm or use your hands for other tasks without having to worry about the rifle getting in the way. 2-point slings hinder this somewhat, but with practice the difference is not that big. If you want a quality single point sling, get a Troy in desert tan to match your rilfe. |
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