I just got one of those tactical latches for my charge handle.  It came with a shoddy illustration on how to install it, but I feel very uncertain about the methods.  It does suggest a 1/16" punch tool, which I don't have.  I know there's also a spring mechanism applying tension to the pin.  The pin doesn't look solid though, it looks hollow.  Maybe my eyes are just playing tricks on me.  Can I get some help here?

a)  Do I need to have this tool (1/16" punch)?  Any alternatives, like a paperclip or something?

b)  Does anyone know of or have good illustrations for how this is done?

c)  If I take this to a gunsmith, what's the most I should pay.  I would think not more than $5.

Quoted: I just got one of those tactical latches for my charge handle.  It came with a shoddy illustration on how to install it, but I feel very uncertain about the methods.  It does suggest a 1/16" punch tool, which I don't have.  I know there's also a spring mechanism applying tension to the pin.  The pin doesn't look solid though, it looks hollow.  Maybe my eyes are just playing tricks on me.  Can I get some help here? a)  Do I need to have this tool (1/16" punch)?  Any alternatives, like a paperclip or something? b)  Does anyone know of or have good illustrations for how this is done? c)  If I take this to a gunsmith, what's the most I should pay.  I would think not more than $5.

Trust me, you can do this yourself.  

Use a 1/16th" punch, or a drill bit, or a small nail to punch out the *hollow* roll pin.  Then insert the tac-latch.... you will see how it goes, it will be self explanatory.  This aint rocket science.  Then tap roll pin back into place, with new tac latch lined up.  Only pain is, the new latch will be under spring pressure while you try and hold it to line it all up.  It's still no big deal, and something you should do yourself.

It's best to use a roll pin punch, but I used the back of an old drill bit the first time I did it.  Be sure to use something sturdy because it will take a few good strikes with a hammer to get the pin out.  The pin is indeed hollow and split down one side.  Getting it back together is the most difficult part because you have to hold the latch in position against spring pressure while pounding the pin into place.  A third hand helps, but it's not necesssary.  It shouldn't take more than five minutes and I doubt you'd have any trouble doing it.

Thank you FALARAK and STRAZZ

I'm going to give it a try.

Forgive me for my ignorance, but which way do I punch the pin out?  Do I punch from the TOP side down to the BOTTOM, or vice-versa?

Thank you

Does not matter.

what i did was use a drill bit and hammered the roll pin out and then put the new latch in and put the drill bit about 1/3 inserted and hold the roll pin in the hole and use a pair of pliers to clamp it in so to speak. works real good and you dont have you spring and roll pin flying everywhere if the punch slips off the pin

Quoted: what i did was use a drill bit and hammered the roll pin out and then put the new latch in and put the drill bit about 1/3 inserted and hold the roll pin in the hole and use a pair of pliers to clamp it in so to speak. works real good and you dont have you spring and roll pin flying everywhere if the punch slips off the pin

Sounds like a great idea!  I tend to do most things the hard way.  

FALARAK and STRAZZ and all others who reply:

I LOVE THIS WEBSITE!

You guys are the best.

I already installed it, in 5 minutes like you said.  The toughest part was putting the new latch on... like you said.  And since I didn't have a punch tool, I used a small nail... like you said.

EDIT:  I forgot to mention that when you're punching out the pin, you should secure the existing latch at the same time, otherwise, the latch and spring will go flying 15 feet accross the room as mine did.   I was lucky to have tiled floors because the sping could have easilly gotten lost for a while.

This website is awesome.  Thank you for your help.  You just saved me a 30 minute drive plus who knows how much $ for a simple job like that!

Edit... OH, and it looks and feels beautiful!!!  I'm going to enjoy using it.  THanks again!

Time to get a little mushy.

This website is like a big extended family on the internet.  Most people here are always willing to help out with just about any question, even if there's no personal gain.  In the last month and a half, since I've become an AR owner, I've learned so much about ARs and everything that goes along with them from members such as you who have posted above.

I've learned just about everything regarding optics, ammunition, all the different brands and their perceived quality, and kind of every accessory I've bought for my AR in the last month including my KAC vertical grip, UFIR, EOTech, GG&G MAD, Hogue pistol grip, EOTech enahanced mounting screw, butstock shoulder pad, Accuwedge, boresnake, my NEW TACTICAL LATCH, even techniques for doing all sorts of things... you name it.  I just keep ordering more and more stuff and love my AR more and more every day.  So what if I'm broke!   Thank you all for all your valuable and expert insight.  Group hug time!

One tip, DO NOT drive the roll pin all the way out, just far enough to unattached the stock latch. Without a roll pin holder, you will have a hard time putting it back into the CH

Glad you didn't have much trouble  This place is quite addictive!

I use a 1/16" punch to drive it out half-way (or all the way) and use the SAME punch to "hold" all the parts in place. I use a small hammer to drive the pin in until it pushes the punch out. Then I use the punch to finish the job.

Quoted: I use a 1/16" punch to drive it out half-way (or all the way) and use the SAME punch to "hold" all the parts in place. I use a small hammer to drive the pin in until it pushes the punch out. Then I use the punch to finish the job.

Same method I use, except instead of a punch I use a 1" long pin (cut from an old drill bit).  These are sometimes called slave pins.