Bushmaster does not do feed ramps. Kurt Wala of KKF in the Industry section will do them for a minimal fee. Thats where my rifle is headed.
The 14.5" barrel is no less accurate than the 16" barrel. In fact if I had to guess the 14.5" M4 is probably more accurate than the 16" light weight. All the barrels I have told you about are preban only so that means you must add a compensator to cover the threads and neuter the bayonet lug. I am unsure if DPMS offers the 1/7 barrels in a postban form but Colt and Bushmaster do not have 100% milspec barrels that are post ban to my knowledge.
When installing a new barrel with FF RAS you must drive out two pins in the front sight base, pull it off and use the Knights barrel nut instead of the factory barrel nut. Then the front sight goes back on and you tap in two pins (its easy)
The RAS II uses the factory barrel nut and the first step can be skipped. All you need to do is put the upper in a vice block, get a barrel wrench and remove the current barrel barrel from the upper by unscrewing the nut. Then it just pops out. You can skip this step if you are not using a barreled upper.
Then pop in the barrel in and screw down the new barrel nut on your new barrel to 35 foot pounds and get the hole for the gas tube to line up on the next notch and your through. All that is needed is to install the gas tube (pops in and held by a pin) and follow the instructions on installing the FF RAS or RAS II (they go on differently) You cant make it more or less accurate during install. I suppose if you didnt tighten down the barrel nut to at least 35 foot pounds or if you tightened it to like 150 foot pounds you could screw it up but you would have to try to do something that stupid to get it to be less accurate than is possible. Seriously with a vice block, barrel wrench, punches, hammer and torque wrench any monkey and rebarrel an AR. There is no skill or magic to it. I was supprised how easy it was when I did it.