Buffer and spring advice please

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Buffer and spring advice please

Posted: 4/18/2017 1:52:11 PM EDT

Ok fellas I've got a Colt 6720 and it's been flawless but appears to be slightly over gassed. My ejection pattern is a solid 2'oclock position with silver showing on the base of the brass deflector closest to the bolt. Only been shot 30 or so times and the brass has a small dent in it from the deflector sharp edge. I'd like to get it closer to 3'oclock ejection. I've only shot lc 62 grain lap outta it. I haven't looked to see which buffer it has but I assume I need to step up to a heavier one with maybe a stiffer buffer spring. What say y'all?
Thanks,
Big Ed

Posted: 4/18/2017 2:21:57 PM EDT

[#1]

H buffer and quit watching where your brass goes and start looking at shit flying

Posted: 4/18/2017 2:56:57 PM EDT

[#2]

Thanks for that. But....the brass is dinging the hell outta my brass deff and not just brass marks that I can clean off with some clp. Actual silver is showing with only 30 or so brass cases rounds down the pipe. I'd like to keep em from hitting there if possible.
Thanks,
Big Ed

Posted: 4/18/2017 3:03:29 PM EDT

[#3]

You could always step up one weight. I think a ST-T2 or H2 would work well with a Sprinco blue buffer spring for that set up.

Your current buffer would likely be perfect with .223 ammo

Posted: 4/18/2017 3:05:58 PM EDT

[#4]

Thanks I'd like to use a Colt buffer but didn't know what spring to use with a heavier buffer. Wolf???

Posted: 4/18/2017 3:50:50 PM EDT

[#5]

See how it runs with TulAmmo or Wolf steel cased .223. If it locks back on an empty mag and doesn't seem over gassed leave it alone.

If it doesn't run the above ammo you're probably fine, too...and it would definitely not be over gassed in that case.

Posted: 4/18/2017 3:59:28 PM EDT

[#6]

Are you REALLY complaining that the brass is marking up your brass deflector? It's a damn rifle.

Posted: 4/18/2017 4:23:21 PM EDT

[#7]

Dude it's got nothing to do with marking up the deflector. It's actually wearing the anodizing and deforming the aluminum. And yes I'm aware it's a "damn rifle". If it were just gold colored marks in the flat of the deflector I wouldn't have said a thing. But after only approx 25 or so brass rounds the edge of my deflector is showing wear. What will it look like after 250 rds???? And the case for steel case wolf?? Man that would sho nuff dent and deform the aluminum. So yes guess I am a lil concerned about my brass deflector. Sorry If that bothers you bud.
Big Ed

Posted: 4/18/2017 4:58:55 PM EDT

[#8]

I run H buffers with Damage Ind enhanced springs in mine, zero issues. Give that a try. Wolff makes xtra power springs, but I've never tried them.

Good luck.

Posted: 4/18/2017 5:04:20 PM EDT

[#9]

Hell I have milled the brass deflector off many of mine. That and I never worry about what time it is ejecting, as long as the shell ejects and loads another shell to go boom, I don't care.

Posted: 4/18/2017 5:23:26 PM EDT

[#10]

Geez guys... let the man do what he wants with his carbine.... if he doesn't like the brass banging his deflector.. that is fine.

KAK makes a fully configurable carbine buffer ( and extended length 9x19 buffer ) ... all the weights, 3 Alum, 3 steel, 3 Tungsten, the felt dividers.. the buffer body , roll pin, and poly buffer.... for $47 bucks.

IMHO... it is worth every penny... rather then buy an assortment of buffer until you find on you like.

Btw a little piece of the fuzzy side of a Velcro strip, fitted on the deflector helps.

https://www.kakindustry.com/ar-15-parts/lower-parts/ar15-buffer-system

As for the buffer spring... I would look at the last, after you have tried some different buffer weights.

I run Tubbs Flat spring variables in all my AR's.

Posted: 4/18/2017 6:42:13 PM EDT

[#11]

Factory Colt should already have the H buffer..........I would keep it and maybe go to a stronger Sprinco.....

Posted: 4/18/2017 7:00:44 PM EDT

[#12]

Quote History

Quoted:
Dude it's got nothing to do with marking up the deflector. It's actually wearing the anodizing and deforming the aluminum. And yes I'm aware it's a "damn rifle". If it were just gold colored marks in the flat of the deflector I wouldn't have said a thing. But after only approx 25 or so brass rounds the edge of my deflector is showing wear. What will it look like after 250 rds???? And the case for steel case wolf?? Man that would sho nuff dent and deform the aluminum. So yes guess I am a lil concerned about my brass deflector. Sorry If that bothers you bud.
Big Ed

View Quote

It doesn't bother me, it bothers you. I've never seen a Colt that was so overgassed it wore through the anodizing on the shell deflector after 25 rounds. If this is really what's happening, I think you'll end up with more problems than a shiny spot on your upper after prolonged use. A rifle that is that overgassed is going to be HARD on internal components. I'd tear it apart and get an idea of the gas port diameter and then proceed from there depending on what I found. Something is way off if what you're saying is true. I've never seen a soft brass case deform an aluminum receiver as you say it's doing. The aluminum upper is much harder than the brass cases are. Especially when you mentioned in your original post that there's nothing but a "small dent" left in your brass. If they were hitting the shell deflector with enough force that they were deforming it, the brass would be mangled.

Posted: 4/18/2017 7:13:14 PM EDT

[#13]

On a more helpful note, regardless of what's happening to your upper's anodizing, if your rifle is actually SERIOUSLY overgassed, I'd install a blue or possibly red Sprinco action spring and an H3 buffer. Also, make sure the extractor spring is Colt's "gold" spring along with a black insert and a CRANE o-ring. If its not, install an extractor upgrade kit from BCM or order the correct Colt spring through Brownell's. Overgassed rifles will benefit from extractor upgrades.

Posted: 4/18/2017 9:36:14 PM EDT

[#14]

If it ejects to the right, you're good.

Posted: 4/18/2017 9:42:20 PM EDT

[#15]

Where the brass is ejected is a tool to diagnose when there is a problem. Not in and of itself an Indictator of a problem. Additionally the location is not to be determined by where the brass lands but the direction it ejecta in. If it is hitting the deflector it is ejection at 5 o'clock or so, in other words perfectly. Your brass deflector is supposed to get hit, that is what it is there for. If it ain't broke.....

Posted: 4/18/2017 9:43:36 PM EDT

[#16]

jp custom extra power srping + spikes St-T2 buffer in all my rifles

Posted: 4/18/2017 9:53:35 PM EDT

[#17]

Quote History

Quoted:
Where the brass is ejected is a tool to diagnose when there is a problem. Not in and of itself an Indictator of a problem. Additionally the location is not to be determined by where the brass lands but the direction it ejecta in. If it is hitting the deflector it is ejection at 5 o'clock or so, in other words perfectly. Your brass deflector is supposed to get hit, that is what it is there for. If it ain't broke.....

View Quote

This is what I'm saying. I'm not sure there is actually an overgassing issue occurring here. If the brass is hitting the shell deflector and then going forward, that's not a problem. If it's hitting the deflector hard enough that it's deforming the aluminum, then there's a serious issue and the OP has found the world's hardest brass.

Posted: 4/18/2017 10:52:02 PM EDT

[#18]

Exactly what I figured too. Being that brass should be a good deal softer than aluminum or even the anodizing. So, why is the sharp edge of my deflector that is closest to the bolt starting to look silver? Guess I just didn't think there would be dents in my shot brass at all. I mean my slr-106fr dents the brass cases but hey it's an ak and it hits the top cover pretty violently. I will try and post a pic as soon as I can. Guess I didn't think bras would wear even the anodizing off the aluminum deflector. I can't figure out how to post pics here. But if you google "ar-15 brass deflector scratches" mine looks identical to the first pic if you choose images.
Thanks for the post fellas,
Big Ed

Posted: 4/18/2017 11:37:18 PM EDT

[#19]

Every one of my carbine gas ar15's has the mark you are talking about. Not a big deal really. You can always tune it with a h2 or h3 buffer and then if still not right start dropping in heavier recoil springs for desired ejection. It will cost money and time though and may increase recoil impulse. With your current 2pm ejection for brass; u 'should' still be able to shoot steel case with around a 4-5pm ejection. Nice to be versatile. My rifle length 20inch colt hear elite does not have this mark however...

Or get an adjustable gas block and have no added recoil impulse since u would be dailing back the amount of gas for slower cycling.

Posted: 4/19/2017 2:25:03 AM EDT

[#20]

why not just put a piece of velcro (fuzzy side) there in the meantime and shoot a couple hundred rounds through it to break it in?

Posted: 4/19/2017 2:26:05 AM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:
Thanks I'd like to use a Colt buffer but didn't know what spring to use with a heavier buffer. Wolf???

View Quote

The spring in there is fine, just toss in an H2 buffer.

Posted: 4/19/2017 3:32:08 AM EDT

[#22]

Heavier buffer by one level, same spring.

Posted: 4/19/2017 7:23:43 AM EDT

[#23]

30 rounds and already dug through the anodizing? I've got over 2k through my upper with a little brass marks that clean right off.
Barrel that came with the rifle, 16" CHF 1/7 FN, was over gassed. New Colt 14.5 barrel runs perfect with a Geissele super 42 setup.

Posted: 4/20/2017 1:27:36 AM EDT

[#24]

I have an all stock, factory 6720 and a 6920 upper installed on a lower fitted with the A5-H2 buffer system. Both rifles eject around the 4 o'clock position, and both have the wear through the anodizing on the lower portion of the shell deflector you speak of. My brass also has the small dents midway down the case. I consider the dents on the cases and the wear on the deflectors normal since I'm experiencing them with both rifles using completely different buffer systems. I shoot .223 almost exclusively, but neither rifle will eject less than 3 o'clock, even when using 5.56 ammunition.

If I were in your shoes, I'd buy another factory Colt buffer spring to start with (doesn't hurt to have a spare anyway) in case yours was weak from the get go. Arms Unlimited sells the Colt factory buffer springs for under $6 shipped. Good luck in getting it to behave the way you want it to.

Posted: 4/20/2017 12:12:26 PM EDT

[#25]

Thanks for that bro. I hate to bitch as there in all respects,except the questionable over gas, the rifle has ran flawlessly. But, I just didn't want the overgasing to pound the internals more than need be that's all. The anodizing wear off isn't that big of a deal if that's all that's happening. Guess I was a lil concerned as this is my first ar and don't want an issue in case the Russians invade lol!! I just rechecked the questionable spot and it's not as bad as I had once thought. The anodizing is now silver but no dinging as I had first thought. Just on the sharp edge though. If I could just keep the brass from hitting there. Will a heavier buffer move the point of impact towards the middle of the deflector??
Thanks for the patience fellas,
Big Ed

Posted: 4/20/2017 1:54:30 PM EDT

[#26]

Are you sure it is removing the finish. Usually it is just brass rubbing off on the deflector.

If it is hitting the deflector it is not ejecting at 2 o'clock.

Posted: 4/20/2017 3:12:18 PM EDT

[#27]

Quote History

Quoted:
Are you sure it is removing the finish. Usually it is just brass rubbing off on the deflector.

If it is hitting the deflector it is not ejecting at 2 o'clock.

View Quote

This. I've put a lot of rounds through AR's and never had any anodizing wear through on my shell deflectors, just lots of brass transfer onto them. In any case, I wouldn't worry about it. Plus, the brass hitting the shell deflector is not an indication that your rifle is overgassed.

Posted: 4/21/2017 1:41:21 PM EDT

[#28]

Generally my starting point is a Tubb’s CS flatwire spring and a H2 buffer.
Sounds like your weapon could run a H3 buffer.

Posted: 4/21/2017 1:56:53 PM EDT

[#29]

The brass isn't hitting the flat of the deflector. It's hitting a sharp edge right before the flat part. It seem to pretty much be going back til it hits this area then popped out of the ejection port. Do ar's have an ejector like some other guns that when the brass hit it the brass is thrown from the bolt and the extractor releases? I looked over my fired brass and the is no smudges of the head stamp. Some have a mark where you can tell the extractor grabbed the round outta the chamber. But no rips of the brass. Think I might try a Colt H2 buffer. I'd like to try the H3 but don't want to get carried away and the rifle not function.
Thanks,
Big Ed

Posted: 4/21/2017 3:14:14 PM EDT

[#30]

Replace one of the steel weights in the buffer with a tungsten weight. If not happy replace a another.

Posted: 4/21/2017 8:27:16 PM EDT

[#31]

Quote History

Quoted:
Are you REALLY complaining that the brass is marking up your brass deflector? It's a damn rifle.

View Quote

Read it again. He was complaining about dented brass.

Posted: 4/21/2017 9:14:21 PM EDT

[#32]

If it were my gun I would try the Geissele Super 42 buffer and spring. I am admittedly a fanboy but their stuff has been nothing but great for me. And they stand behind their products so if you ever have an issue they will make it right.

Cheaper option, I'd try an H2 buffer and maybe a Sprinco Blue.

And what's with people being all "it's a rifle who cares" lately... This is a tech forum and OP asked a tech question on how to make his gun run optimally. If you aren't going to add value and want to be all "my guns are beat up cause I'm a bad ass gunslinger" then find the thread for that.

Edit to add: remember OP you can always take apart buffers to come up with different weights so if you get an H3 and it's too much you aren't screwed. You can make a combo that works.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Buffer and spring advice please

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