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I hate you.
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As always, I look forward to your threads. Sounds like an awesome build and challenging undertaking. Thanks for always sharing such interesting/detailed info.
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I'm definitely in for more info. This could make or break my URX purchase and allow more people to successfully install/adjust their URX.
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<font size=3>كافر </font id=s3>
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Originally Posted By candyflip:
http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? but the catch is it's probably always out of stock. |
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Originally Posted By candyflip: http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? Yes. I know you can get one. I'm just too cheap to shell out $260 for a wrench I'm going to use once, maybe twice. Since I have access to all sorts of machines I might as well learn a thing or two and make my own. Originally Posted By JV3: Originally Posted By candyflip: http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? but the catch is it's probably always out of stock. They had two in stock over the last two weeks or so. But they rarely have them as I'm sure KAC doesn't let too many of those go out their doors. |
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"Now see, I just respond to this sort of stuff by striking the keyboard repeatedly with my genitals and hollering really loud." - Swindle1984
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I always love your posts.
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“To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms, and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them.” Founding Father Richard Henry Lee
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Originally Posted By unclemoak:
Originally Posted By candyflip:
http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? Yes. I know you can get one. I'm just too cheap to shell out $260 for a wrench I'm going to use once, maybe twice. Since I have access to all sorts of machines I might as well learn a thing or two and make my own. Originally Posted By JV3:
Originally Posted By candyflip:
http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? but the catch is it's probably always out of stock. They had two in stock over the last two weeks or so. But they rarely have them as I'm sure KAC doesn't let too many of those go out their doors. Exactly, at that price they can keep it. I thought you also had to pay another 250 for the jaws to hold the URX in place also? I want a URX II very badly, the integrated sight, heat shield, and removable bottom rail are winning features. If you get this to work do you think you could sell a few ont he side? |
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Originally Posted By unclemoak:
Originally Posted By candyflip:
http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? Yes. I know you can get one. I'm just too cheap to shell out $260 for a wrench I'm going to use once, maybe twice. Since I have access to all sorts of machines I might as well learn a thing or two and make my own. I think anybody who WOULD pay that for a wrench is delusional. |
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Originally Posted By Falar: Originally Posted By unclemoak: Originally Posted By candyflip: http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? Yes. I know you can get one. I'm just too cheap to shell out $260 for a wrench I'm going to use once, maybe twice. Since I have access to all sorts of machines I might as well learn a thing or two and make my own. Originally Posted By JV3: Originally Posted By candyflip: http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? but the catch is it's probably always out of stock. They had two in stock over the last two weeks or so. But they rarely have them as I'm sure KAC doesn't let too many of those go out their doors. Exactly, at that price they can keep it. I thought you also had to pay another 250 for the jaws to hold the URX in place also? I want a URX II very badly, the integrated sight, heat shield, and removable bottom rail are winning features. If you get this to work do you think you could sell a few ont he side? To be quite honest with you, I don't even know how that URX clamp thinger is supposed to even work. I'm planning on using one of these to span the receiver and rail while I'm tightening up the nut. It's a action block made by PRI that will either hold the bottom of the receiver, or span the top like I plan to do. |
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"Now see, I just respond to this sort of stuff by striking the keyboard repeatedly with my genitals and hollering really loud." - Swindle1984
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Originally Posted By j_king:
Originally Posted By unclemoak:
Originally Posted By candyflip:
http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? Yes. I know you can get one. I'm just too cheap to shell out $260 for a wrench I'm going to use once, maybe twice. Since I have access to all sorts of machines I might as well learn a thing or two and make my own. I think anybody who WOULD pay that for a wrench is delusional. If I was runnning a shop stocked and sold a lot of URX IIs (or selling URX II equipped custom uppers) I'd pay for it and charge 20 bucks for installs. I'm sure after a year or two it would pay for itself. |
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If it works, I have first dibs on renting it from you :) I have been getting prices for install on the URX's; $40-170 :(
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When you look at the pic of the KAC rail block thingy, look at the lower left hand corner; the rail fits into that slot. The upper and rail go in that contraption, then put upside down in a vise so you can tighten the barrel nut. I have the instructions laying around here somewhere...
Originally Posted By unclemoak:
Originally Posted By Falar:
Originally Posted By unclemoak:
Originally Posted By candyflip:
http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? Yes. I know you can get one. I'm just too cheap to shell out $260 for a wrench I'm going to use once, maybe twice. Since I have access to all sorts of machines I might as well learn a thing or two and make my own. Originally Posted By JV3:
Originally Posted By candyflip:
http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_KNIGHT_S_ARMAMENT_URX_BARREL_NUT_WRENCH_p/20495.htm like this one? but the catch is it's probably always out of stock. They had two in stock over the last two weeks or so. But they rarely have them as I'm sure KAC doesn't let too many of those go out their doors. Exactly, at that price they can keep it. I thought you also had to pay another 250 for the jaws to hold the URX in place also? I want a URX II very badly, the integrated sight, heat shield, and removable bottom rail are winning features. If you get this to work do you think you could sell a few ont he side? To be quite honest with you, I don't even know how that URX clamp thinger is supposed to even work. http://www.operationparts.com/v/vspfiles/photos/22515-2.jpg I'm planning on using one of these to span the receiver and rail while I'm tightening up the nut. It's a action block made by PRI that will either hold the bottom of the receiver, or span the top like I plan to do. http://media.midwayusa.com/ProductImages/Large/878754.jpg |
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You don't think the rapid prototype would be strong enough for use as is? I thought perhaps you wouldn't need to make it out your metal of choice if you're only gonna use it once...
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Every rapid prototype I've seen is an odd plastic/polymer material.
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Originally Posted By 98snakebite:
Every rapid prototype I've seen is an odd plastic/polymer material. Same here. |
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<font size=3>كافر </font id=s3>
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Originally Posted By StreetSpeed: You don't think the rapid prototype would be strong enough for use as is? I thought perhaps you wouldn't need to make it out your metal of choice if you're only gonna use it once... Won't nearly be strong enough. I have an FDM (fluid deposition modeling) rapid prototyper that makes the part out of ABS plastic. It can be used for non-structural parts, but nothing load bearing. I've used it before to make a race car intake manifold, but we had to press aluminum bushings on the ends to re-enforce it. |
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"Now see, I just respond to this sort of stuff by striking the keyboard repeatedly with my genitals and hollering really loud." - Swindle1984
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Make two...I'll buy the second one off you
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Originally Posted By matt58: When you look at the pic of the KAC rail block thingy, look at the lower left hand corner; the rail fits into that slot. The upper and rail go in that contraption, then put upside down in a vise so you can tighten the barrel nut. I have the instructions laying around here somewhere... <snip> That seems to be how it would appear to work. What I don't understand, is what all that extra shit (the faux rail portion) is for? The PRI one I have will do the same thing in terms of clamping both the upper and rail and doesn't cost $280. |
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"Now see, I just respond to this sort of stuff by striking the keyboard repeatedly with my genitals and hollering really loud." - Swindle1984
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Originally Posted By unclemoak:
...I've used it before to make a race car intake manifold, but we had to press aluminum bushings on the ends to re-enforce it... Tell me more about this... I may need to IM you about an idea I have. |
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Originally Posted By 98snakebite: Originally Posted By unclemoak: ...I've used it before to make a race car intake manifold, but we had to press aluminum bushings on the ends to re-enforce it... Tell me more about this... I may need to IM you about an idea I have. It was for a small open wheeled race car that uses a Honda CRF450 motor. If I remember, I'll get some pictures of the old intake tomorrow at work. |
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"Now see, I just respond to this sort of stuff by striking the keyboard repeatedly with my genitals and hollering really loud." - Swindle1984
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Originally Posted By unclemoak:
Originally Posted By matt58:
When you look at the pic of the KAC rail block thingy, look at the lower left hand corner; the rail fits into that slot. The upper and rail go in that contraption, then put upside down in a vise so you can tighten the barrel nut. I have the instructions laying around here somewhere... <snip>
That seems to be how it would appear to work. What I don't understand, is what all that extra shit (the faux rail portion) is for? The PRI one I have will do the same thing in terms of clamping both the upper and rail and doesn't cost $280. If I understand it correctly, the KAC block is also used to REMOVE the rail after install which is difficult as the rail is often attached to the receiver with Red LocTitie. You use the KAC block as a wrench...or maybe you use the receiver block as a wrench and put the KAC block in the vice. One or the other |
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tag
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very nice
i will be keeping a close eye on this thread. that's gonna be one sweet upper when your done |
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If I remember correctly, the first URX's had a ring nut of sorts that was threaded into the threads on the rail, then you threaded the assembly onto the receiver, then barrel and the KAC barrel nut. It took a while to get it right because you had to "time" the ring nut in the rail in order to get it as close as you could to the receiver and still have the top rails aligned. Thats when (i think) you had to use a barrel nut wrench that was really long; as long as the barrel. This new rail looks much simpler to install; if you have the right tools that is ;)
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Thats gonna be a good looking setup.
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Arfcom industry disclaimer: I do taxes for a living. And raise cattle. And cut hay to feed other cattle. I'm pretty much the reason your government runs and you have food in your belly.
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After re-examining the pics of the rail and barrel, I am left confused. How does the barrel fit flush against the receiver if the rail is screwed on to the receiver? How do you time the rail so the top rails align and there is minimal to no gap between rail and receiver? Do you have any pics of the barrel in the rail WITHOUT the barrel nut on? Thanks for the info and by the way, GREAT POST!
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Originally Posted By unclemoak:
Originally Posted By matt58:
After re-examining the pics of the rail and barrel, I am left confused. How does the barrel fit flush against the receiver if the rail is screwed on to the receiver? How do you time the rail so the top rails align and there is minimal to no gap between rail and receiver? Do you have any pics of the barrel in the rail WITHOUT the barrel nut on? Thanks for the info and by the way, GREAT POST! You time the top rail by using something like the PRI action block that holds both the receiver and the rail via the picatinny portion. To eliminate as much gap between the rail and the receiver, you just tighten it the whole way, then back off until the rails line up. Some places take the rail and machine off just enough so that when it is fully tightened against the receiver it lines up perfectly. I thought about doing this, but I didn't want to have to re-anodize the rail. Here's what it looks like when you machine the back of the rail to eliminate the gap. http://photos.imageevent.com/smglee/mstn/huge/IMG_0102.jpg Here's what the gap typically looks like http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Magpul%204/IMGL2831-A-1024-Stick.jpg This is how the rail works. The rail (red) threads on to the reciever threads (black). Then you slide the barrel (gray) in and it is held in place by the barrel nut (yellow), which also threads into the rail http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/rail.png That summed it up perfectly for me. With the labor involved in installing this very tight and flush, I see now why some companies charge so much! Thanks a ton! That really helped me out! |
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Man the URX is so bad ass. I love the integral sight and the way the rail covers a SBR barrel. The price is just brutal. Where did you get yours?
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<font size=3>كافر </font id=s3>
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Originally Posted By RussellAthletic: Man the URX is so bad ass. I love the integral sight and the way the rail covers a SBR barrel. The price is just brutal. Where did you get yours? I got mine straight from Lawmen's. |
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"Now see, I just respond to this sort of stuff by striking the keyboard repeatedly with my genitals and hollering really loud." - Swindle1984
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Originally Posted By RussellAthletic:
Man the URX is so bad ass. I love the integral sight and the way the rail covers a SBR barrel. The price is just brutal. Where did you get yours? I'm right there with ya! For me, it is worth saving for a little while longer if I have too in order to afford. As far as price goes, the cheapest I found was at www.operationparts.com. $483 and some change for rifle length. And they had three in stock! |
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I've been wanting to built a rifle with one of those rails. I'm wanting to see where you go with the wrench you need to make.
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Mine's at Lawmen's being installed now, but I'd love to buy a wrench from you if you make any extras.
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Smart man with some smart toys to play with. Good job building the wrench!
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So when can we buy them?
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ALWAYS THINK FORFEITURE
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FSAE Car?
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Very cool stuff.
Nice to see CAD being put to use on a DIY project like this. |
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How does the URX rail compare to the DD Lite rail?
Is it's main selling point the integrated features? Or is it weight? Strength? etc. |
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impressive work ! I whish I had your skills, and your machines ;) !
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Originally Posted By hokeyplyr48:
How does the URX rail compare to the DD Lite rail? Is it's main selling point the integrated features? Or is it weight? Strength? etc. The URX main selling point is the brand name stamped on it. |
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Team Membership thanks to Savage_Winchester.
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Originally Posted By Jonny_Flashbang: Originally Posted By hokeyplyr48: How does the URX rail compare to the DD Lite rail? Is it's main selling point the integrated features? Or is it weight? Strength? etc. The URX main selling point is the brand name stamped on it. I think the brand name, the integral front sight and sling mounts are all a big plus for the rail. |
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"Now see, I just respond to this sort of stuff by striking the keyboard repeatedly with my genitals and hollering really loud." - Swindle1984
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Slide the wrench further down the bbl where it is more tapered and then bring it back to the nut. As long as the bbl is small enough at some point behind the gas block you are all set.
One of the main features of this new wrench is being able to install a bbl. with the gas block allready installed. We are working on a way to reduce the cost of the URX. Nice job on your project. If you want to come down to Florida after you get done with school drop me a line. |
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Originally Posted By 030: Slide the wrench further down the bbl where it is more tapered and then bring it back to the nut. As long as the bbl is small enough at some point behind the gas block you are all set. One of the main features of this new wrench is being able to install a bbl. with the gas block allready installed. We are working on a way to reduce the cost of the URX. Nice job on your project. If you want to come down to Florida after you get done with school drop me a line. Thanks Mr. Knight I actually considered doing exactly what you mentioned, but the wrench wouldn't fit past the lugs along the sides of the opening on the bottom of the rail with the first wrench I prototyped today. For that matter, it was to big to even rotate around the inside of the rail to tighten the but. The second wrench I made today, I reduced the overall diameter of it so that it would do exactly what you are describing. So I suppose that I could at the two teeth back onto the wrench so that it would engage more teeth. |
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"Now see, I just respond to this sort of stuff by striking the keyboard repeatedly with my genitals and hollering really loud." - Swindle1984
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man, i wish i had the knowledge and access to the machinery you have. that is just amazing work! WOW!
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Damn, pretty neat toy you got to play with there.
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